1998 & Newer specific Ranger problems.....

[fixizin]

How do you actually get it from them? Oh their website I'm seeing it as unavailable both in store and online.

True, but notice where it says "Not Available at Selected Store" there's a hot-link that says "Call Store to Order"

I ordered it on a Sunday (in person, there for other stuff anyway), and they had it on Tuesday... back around Dec. 2020 IIRC... can't remember if I had to pay in advance, but no biggie, THEY'LL ORDER IT, because... hey, they want your money! (OTOH, I'm guessing it's "under the table" because FoMoCo not thrilled they're selling it at a STEEP discount!)

PS: Besides curing "Driveshaft Clunk", it's also a pure-synthetic (baby blue color) grease that's safe for all PLASTICS, so I'm using it to rebuild my PVH hubs... may also end up using in on my Herman Miller office chair rocking mechanism.

 

[fixizin]

Any luck getting O'Reilly to order the Secret Squirrel FoMoCo XG-8 grease for you?

 

[Saxwing1988]

The pats system is probably the most annoying thing in my opinion but i put a 3 inch body lift on mine and I will say it has made every fix I've ever had to do so much easier it opens everything up so much more

 

[Bear in the woods]

99 4+4 driven four years and the trans jumped to neutral at 65mph. Slight whining sound when put in any gear with no pull in any gear . Also the door ajar as mentioned above.

 

[tohbi]

I'm curious, and it would be easier to ask then to read every post in this forum.....

What are some of the problems encountered in the 1998 and newer Rangers that are specific to those models? As the tech library expands, I'm trying to figure out what direction we need to go now that the 1998 and up Rangers are becoming more common and being modified more.

Whether it be hubs, axles, transmissions, engines, electronics, etc.....please post any problems you see popping up with these trucks that we may need to address in some tech pages.

It would seem to me that there would be more and more electrical related issues.

You may post some that I already know about or have addressed elsewhere, but throw anything you can think of out there. Who knows, we may find that a specific problem is more common that you think.

Thanks.

Hood Latch

I'm back fellas! Yes, it's been many years but I return when I have a problem. I can't open the hood. The lever moves easily, like it's open, but the hood acts welded shut. Can anyone advise?

I may have a solution to Jim's noisy PS pump. A small amount of "friction modifier" solved my issue. I think it is the same additive that is put into the differential for limited slip differentials.

A girlfriend had an old 2.8 Ranger, my introduction to the model. I put a carb and distributor on that truck and liked it so much I acquired an '86 Bronco II, first year for EFI. Also, my first 4WD. Great little truck, talk about a turning radius, but scary at 80mph on the freeway; on the way to Nogales, I was following a brand new F250, passing a semi when the Ford slammed on the brakes. Smoke poured off the pickup's tires as the semi started to jackknife right next to us. An old station wagon filled with Mexican Nationals had blown a tire and was sliding sideways down the middle of the freeway. Luckily, the semi driver was on the ball and missed the station wagon on the right.

The F250 stood on its nose and moved to the left, leaving me no place to go but under his tailgate or into the center bar ditch. I just knew that Bronco II would roll over if I took it into the bar ditch at that speed but luckily managed to keep her on the highway and slow down without hitting anything. The F250 had rolled over a hubcap that came off the station wagon and punched a hole in the pan. I pulled over and gave the driver a ride to call a tow truck and left his passenger with a half-pack of cigarettes to guard the new F250.

So, I decided highway safety trumps off road 4WD and traded for an '05 Edge with limited slip and it has been excellent. Solid on the highway and haven't been stuck yet. ..... I know this has been windy but thought I'd share. So, can anyone help me open my hood?

 

[fixizin]

99 4+4 driven four years and the trans jumped to neutral at 65mph. Slight whining sound when put in any gear with no pull in any gear . Also the door ajar as mentioned above.

Perhaps it was the TRANSFER CASE that jumped to Neutral, not the trans??

Please report back.

 

[Bear in the woods]

Perhaps it was the TRANSFER CASE that jumped to Neutral, not the trans??

Please report back.

I don’t think its
the transfer case. I can hear it shift in and out when I push the button. Keep putting off transmission removal. WAITING ON A JACK. BOUGHT One on Amazon. There was problems with shipping. Just got refunded. But will have to wait again for it to arrive. My younger days I have installed 2 350 turbo transmissions in my old z28. While laying on my back in a ditch. Slide transmission onto me. Then wrangle em in. NOT EVEN going to attempt that these days

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Hood Latch

I'm back fellas! Yes, it's been many years but I return when I have a problem. I can't open the hood. The lever moves easily, like it's open, but the hood acts welded shut. Can anyone advise?

I may have a solution to Jim's noisy PS pump. A small amount of "friction modifier" solved my issue. I think it is the same additive that is put into the differential for limited slip differentials.

A girlfriend had an old 2.8 Ranger, my introduction to the model. I put a carb and distributor on that truck and liked it so much I acquired an '86 Bronco II, first year for EFI. Also, my first 4WD. Great little truck, talk about a turning radius, but scary at 80mph on the freeway; on the way to Nogales, I was following a brand new F250, passing a semi when the Ford slammed on the brakes. Smoke poured off the pickup's tires as the semi started to jackknife right next to us. An old station wagon filled with Mexican Nationals had blown a tire and was sliding sideways down the middle of the freeway. Luckily, the semi driver was on the ball and missed the station wagon on the right.

The F250 stood on its nose and moved to the left, leaving me no place to go but under his tailgate or into the center bar ditch. I just knew that Bronco II would roll over if I took it into the bar ditch at that speed but luckily managed to keep her on the highway and slow down without hitting anything. The F250 had rolled over a hubcap that came off the station wagon and punched a hole in the pan. I pulled over and gave the driver a ride to call a tow truck and left his passenger with a half-pack of cigarettes to guard the new F250.

So, I decided highway safety trumps off road 4WD and traded for an '05 Edge with limited slip and it has been excellent. Solid on the highway and haven't been stuck yet. ..... I know this has been windy but thought I'd share. So, can anyone help me open my hood?

Have you tried a buddy pushing down on the hood while you pull the release cable? Sort of the way Fonz would bump the jukebox, might just need a little jarring to snap loose.
Once you do get it open, maybe lube the cable and linkages and bit and deburr the hook/latch back into a pretty smooth shape if its rough from rust/wear.

Lastly it is possibly your cable snapped somewhere, might have to manually get it open from underneath the grill area...not easy, but possible.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Have you tried a buddy pushing down on the hood while you pull the release cable? Sort of the way Fonz would bump the jukebox, might just need a little jarring to snap loose.
Once you do get it open, maybe lube the cable and linkages and bit and deburr the hook/latch back into a pretty smooth shape if its rough from rust/wear.

Lastly it is possibly your cable snapped somewhere, might have to manually get it open from underneath the grill area...not easy, but possible.

This. and if you are able to get it open by a nudge bump help from a buddy, lube the cable and the latch assembly itself. use white lithium grease on the latch assembly, and I think they make lube for the cable itself too.

AJ

 

[Eddo Rogue]

This. and if you are able to get it open by a nudge bump help from a buddy, lube the cable and the latch assembly itself. use white lithium grease on the latch assembly, and I think they make lube for the cable itself too.

AJ

They make chain/cable lube spray specifically. Dirt bike guys use it.

We also have a cable lubing tool that the fits a straw and forces in the spray. Motion Pro makes one, they work great.

 

[nelson2071]

I'm curious, and it would be easier to ask then to read every post in this forum.....

What are some of the problems encountered in the 1998 and newer Rangers that are specific to those models? As the tech library expands, I'm trying to figure out what direction we need to go now that the 1998 and up Rangers are becoming more common and being modified more.

Whether it be hubs, axles, transmissions, engines, electronics, etc.....please post any problems you see popping up with these trucks that we may need to address in some tech pages.

It would seem to me that there would be more and more electrical related issues.

You may post some that I already know about or have addressed elsewhere, but throw anything you can think of out there. Who knows, we may find that a specific problem is more common that you think.

Thanks.

Hello am new here, just bought a 99 ford ranger 4x4 3.0, and it had a cracked bell housing, when I go it out I saw that the flywheel had a big hole in the center and the rest was still bolted to the motor, I believe that whoever put the tranny in did not set the torque converter by turning it to get it to set down into the pump,and had tightened the torque converter to the flywheel thus tightening the bell housing which made a very long crack ,I guess when they started it that was what broke the center out of the flywheel,,I am not sure if it has ruined the pump or anything else in the transmission so have decided to replace it but not sure what year ranger 3.0 trucks I can use one from,have read that only 99 to 2000 can be used and then I have read that = Certainly! The part number XL5Z7V000BARM corresponds to a Transmission Assembly for specific Ford Ranger models1. If you have a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 4x4, you can use a 3.0L 4x4 automatic transmission from 1995 through 2008 (last year for the 3.0L). Both the 4R44E and 5R44E transmissions will work for your vehicle. The 1998 3.0L 4x4 transmission (4R44E) is a direct plug-and-play replacement for your 1996 Ranger2. Remember that the 5R44E and 4R44E are essentially the same internally; the 5R44E just has additional software for a fifth gear, but it behaves like a 4-speed transmission. S o any help would be greatly appreciated, nelson2071ty,

 

[superj]

welcome @nelson2071

if you look in the tech section, it might be able to answer your question. i don't know the answer, myself