1998 & Newer specific Ranger problems.....

[Jim Oaks]

I'm curious, and it would be easier to ask then to read every post in this forum.....

What are some of the problems encountered in the 1998 and newer Rangers that are specific to those models? As the tech library expands, I'm trying to figure out what direction we need to go now that the 1998 and up Rangers are becoming more common and being modified more.

Whether it be hubs, axles, transmissions, engines, electronics, etc.....please post any problems you see popping up with these trucks that we may need to address in some tech pages.

It would seem to me that there would be more and more electrical related issues.

You may post some that I already know about or have addressed elsewhere, but throw anything you can think of out there. Who knows, we may find that a specific problem is more common that you think.

Thanks.

 

[wvcat]

Here are the main problems I have run into:
1- I've killed 2 altenators 4 wheeling, last time I went I made a plastic shield and had no problems.
2-PVH's, the pulse vacumn hubs are nice but also suck...lol After a few trips 4 wheeling mine stopped working. Gas is too expensive for me to just do the pemanent lock mod and I am too cheap to buy the AVM hubs. I popped the caps and washed them out with a hose(they were full of mud) and sprayed everything down with pb blaster and the work normally again.
3- Power steering pumps seem to always be noisey
4-IAC valves have a tendancy to make a humming sound
5- Heater resisters get corroded and tend to only work on hi
6-The vacumn line that operates the heater and pvh's tend to get damaged or burnt on the manifold
7-The front wheel abs sensors create problems and don't always throw a trouble code
8- the speed sensor can cause the trans to shift weird and cause people to misdiagnos trans problems
9-clutch slave cylinders go bad
10-door adjar switches stick causing the dome light to stay on
11- e-brake cables have a tendency to go bad/rust causing the brakes to drag
12- some have had blend door problems

Thats all I can think of for now...lol
John

 

[triumphrider-1]

The only thing I can think to add to wvcat's post is the typical driveshaft thud/clunk when starting to accelerate and when coming to a stop.

 

[c_note]

id say since there are so many DIYers here, after cranking the t-bars theres always an alignment problem. a walk through would be great if its not too complex or need of special calibration tools.

 

[Beef52751]

cam sensor in the 3.0s

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Slip Yoke is a bitch.

 

[organic]

The only thing I can think to add to wvcat's post is the typical driveshaft thud/clunk when starting to accelerate and when coming to a stop.

 

[Jspafford]

I've had my 2001 and the 1999 both randomly not fire until the third crank.

It only happens a couple times a year.

 

[GatorBlue92]

cam sensor in the 3.0s

that along with the synchronizer gear that it sits on

 

[4x4junkie]

Door Ajar switches that stick (EXTREMELY common)
PVH hubs that clog with dirt
Driveshaft slip-spline that was inadequately lubricated at the factory (stick-slip thump on takeoff)
"Marbling" sound in the 4.0L OHV engines at idle (I don't seem to see near as many reports of this as I did 5-7 years ago though)
4WD "GEM" modules that frequently go bad (usually results in failure of the 4WD shifting into LO, but will still work in HI)
Lo-Pinion IFS with low-hanging torsion bars (We really need '98UP SAS stuff still!)


Oh, and the '98 seats are a PITA too! They don't click back to their previous position after you flip them forward like the ones on my '94 and '90 do.

 

[kroed11581]

Mine has had trouble with, but have successfully fixed:

4x4 shift motor (replaced)
rear driveshaft clunk (took apart and greased)
oil pan gasket was pushed out (replaced)
door switch (WD-40, worked after that)
rear axle shaft bearing and seal leaking (replaced)
________
weed vaporizer

 

[phatcap]

i have a 2000 xlt 2.5l with just over 80k. i've had to replace the following due to failure:

-upper ball joints
-u-joints
-extension housing oil seal (between tranny and driveshaft)
-caliper seized, so i did both
-alternator
-tie rod ends
-boot on the power steering rack

i've done a lot more to it, maintenance stuff and "mods"...

 

[kerry]

I've had trouble with the rear brakes & it seems like I've seen a few other posts mentioning similar problems.

 

[4x4RangerGuy]

From my experience with my 98:

- The 4R44E transmission (not strong enough for even mild 4 wheeling)
- PVH Hubs (It's actually the rear knuckle seal that causes them to clog up. The vacuum lines are problematic as well)
- Alternators (although it may just be bad parts to blame)
- Poor spark output on 3.0 (just get the upgraded coil from Ford)
- Inner tie rods
- Alignment after torsion bars are cranked (special cam bolts are necessary)

 

[rat_ranger]

intake manifold ontrol valve on the duratech. dont remember what code it is but it seems pretty common.