1998 2.5L oil supply / Bypass filter

[Shup1]

I am looking for a supply spot on my 2.5L motor to supply oil to my Amsoil bypass filter setup. I would prefer someplace that would allow for full flow without affecting a sender unit, the Amsoil unit has a orifice to reduce flow

Any help would be appreciated

 

[Mark_88]

Hi and welcome to TRS~!

I've never actually heard of a by-pass filter so never heard of anyone installing one.

What would be the purpose of this would be my first question...I suppose I could look it up but it would probably be better if you could elaborate as there is quite often value or in what you are doing for specific applications that others might benefit from or, as often the case, a clarification required.

If you are familiar with the Turbo Charger on these engines it uses an opening in the back of the head to route oil through the turbo that eventually drains into an opening on the lower block on the exhaust side.

Look up turbo charger oiling on Ford 2.3 engines or something similar if you are not familiar with that routing.

 

[tomw]

Two thoughts come to mind, adding an adapter at the current oil filter mount, and tapping into the drilled passages on the cylinder head. The sending unit is on the head, drivers side, rearward.
There should be a drilled passage, front to rear, that feed the hydraulic lifter/supports, though I have not looked for it. There would also be a passage, in the block, that led from the pump to the filter mount, again, drilled front to rear. Probably inside the bell housing.
The easiest would be to add a Tee to the sending unit port. If the Amsoil is a 'partial flow' filter, I don't see the advantage, but I'm sure you feel it is worth it. I've always thought that filters were a good idea, but wondered what exactly they were supposed to catch. If the engine is in good shape, and you don't toss sand in when doing an oil change, and it is 'sealed' enough to work the PCV system reasonably, where was the 'stuff' coming from that needed to be filtered? Carbon particles won't hurt anything, pretty much, so what is being trapped?

tom

 

[Shup1]

Two thoughts come to mind, adding an adapter at the current oil filter mount, and tapping into the drilled passages on the cylinder head. The sending unit is on the head, drivers side, rearward.
There should be a drilled passage, front to rear, that feed the hydraulic lifter/supports, though I have not looked for it. There would also be a passage, in the block, that led from the pump to the filter mount, again, drilled front to rear. Probably inside the bell housing.
The easiest would be to add a Tee to the sending unit port. If the Amsoil is a 'partial flow' filter, I don't see the advantage, but I'm sure you feel it is worth it. I've always thought that filters were a good idea, but wondered what exactly they were supposed to catch. If the engine is in good shape, and you don't toss sand in when doing an oil change, and it is 'sealed' enough to work the PCV system reasonably, where was the 'stuff' coming from that needed to be filtered? Carbon particles won't hurt anything, pretty much, so what is being trapped?

tom

I will look for feed this weekend

The reason for adding the Amsoil BP filter is to extend my oil changes, I use them on my big diesel and I go 25k on synthetic oil and Amsoil full flow filter along with the bypass. Just shear economics for me and I want to use a better oil and instead of 5 oil changes per year I would do one with my major service in the fall...I would still need to rotate tires 5x year but hoping it would reduce my time on my back.

 

[Mark_88]

I will look for feed this weekend

The reason for adding the Amsoil BP filter is to extend my oil changes, I use them on my big diesel and I go 25k on synthetic oil and Amsoil full flow filter along with the bypass. Just shear economics for me and I want to use a better oil and instead of 5 oil changes per year I would do one with my major service in the fall...I would still need to rotate tires 5x year but hoping it would reduce my time on my back.

Thanks for the clarification. I usually only did two oil changes on my Ranger but I don't do that much driving. When I was commuting I could hit 5,000 Km in a few months so my frequency of oil changes was higher.

I was thinking of going synthetic at one point but that got sidetracked when it decided I wasn't spending enough money and started blowing it out every opening.

Anyway...I hope you can use something from what tomw said...first time I'd ever heard of filter bypassing though...one more for the books...thanks!

 

[tomw]

A bypass oil filter in this case would be an additional filter that is getting partial flow of the lube passed through the media any time the engine is running. The original, factory, full-flow filter still is installed & functional, just an additional filter added that just sits and filters any oil passed through it.
In days gone, full filtration was not installed on engines. You changed the oil every 3 months, or a suggested mileage interval. Lubrication of multiple Zerk fittings on the chassis and suspension was also done on the 3-month interval. The local gas station was also a Service Station, and you got to know your guys a lot better than today.
That said, partial-flow filters were an add-on accessory. They were mounted under hood, generally with a metal canister that held the filter media, plumbed into the oil gallery, usually through the pressure gauge port, and the filtered oil was dumped back into the sump.
FWIW, I think Ford was one of the first to offer full-flow oil filters as factory equipment, installed on the Y-block V8, or on the 'new' 6-cylinder of 1953(?). Was not driving then.
tom

 

[Shup1]

A bypass oil filter in this case would be an additional filter that is getting partial flow of the lube passed through the media any time the engine is running. The original, factory, full-flow filter still is installed & functional, just an additional filter added that just sits and filters any oil passed through it.
In days gone, full filtration was not installed on engines. You changed the oil every 3 months, or a suggested mileage interval. Lubrication of multiple Zerk fittings on the chassis and suspension was also done on the 3-month interval. The local gas station was also a Service Station, and you got to know your guys a lot better than today.
That said, partial-flow filters were an add-on accessory. They were mounted under hood, generally with a metal canister that held the filter media, plumbed into the oil gallery, usually through the pressure gauge port, and the filtered oil was dumped back into the sump.
FWIW, I think Ford was one of the first to offer full-flow oil filters as factory equipment, installed on the Y-block V8, or on the 'new' 6-cylinder of 1953(?). Was not driving then.
tom

You are correct, I believe Frantz (toilet paper filter media) was one of the first and then there have been a whole slew of spin on reduced flow, centrifical spin ect

 

[gw33gp]

I have used micron bypass oil filters for many years to get extended oil change intervals. On my Rangers, I just used a tee at the oil pressure sending unit. That works fine and I prefer that way if possible. On other engines I have tapped into an oil galley in the block when a tee was not practical, but you have to be very careful not to get metal particles in the galley.

Finding the best location on the pan to return the oil is something you should think about. I think it is best to put it just below the oil level at it lowest point. I have never had a leak but I think there is more potential to leak the lower you go. Having it above the oil level can tend to introduce bubbles in the oil. The crankshaft certainly does this too but why introduce more.

 

[Shup1]

I have used micron bypass oil filters for many years to get extended oil change intervals. On my Rangers, I just used a tee at the oil pressure sending unit. That works fine and I prefer that way if possible. On other engines I have tapped into an oil galley in the block when a tee was not practical, but you have to be very careful not to get metal particles in the galley.

Finding the best location on the pan to return the oil is something you should think about. I think it is best to put it just below the oil level at it lowest point. I have never had a leak but I think there is more potential to leak the lower you go. Having it above the oil level can tend to introduce bubbles in the oil. The crankshaft certainly does this too but why introduce more.

I drill the oil cap on valve cover and return back into a swivel mounted on cap using ss brake lines for supply and return (good to 2000 psi and handle high temps without breaking down) Any idea where to start looking for oil pressure unit on a 98 - 2.5L...it will reduce my time crawling and searching

 

[adsm08]

Oil pressure sending unit on the Lima engines is on the driver's side, in the head, at the very back. It's about as far back on the head as you can get, but points to the driver's side of the vehicle. Kinda gets buried under wires and such.