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2.3L ('83-'97) 1997 ford ranger 2.3l new clutch flywheel slave cylinder and clutch master. Wont shift into gear


swift700xx

Active Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Mar 27, 2023
Messages
27
City
Florida
Vehicle Year
1997
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
I have a 1997 ford ranger 2.3l 2wd 5 speed. Just changed the clutch pressure plate flywheel clutch line clutch master cylinder. Truck won't shift into any gear while running and only grinds on reverse. I did put fluid in it and have been bleeding like crazy but still won't go into gear. Help please
 
ok update. this is the clutch and slave cylinder i got. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GD1X61X?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 and i got a new master clutch cylinder from o rileys as well as a new clutch line. this is the flywheel i got as well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GD1X61X?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1. now we took down the tranny and they the clutch and flywheel and pilot bearing. replaced and lined up the clutch with the tool after installing the flywheel. replaced the clutch line as well when doing this. tried to bleed the system and came to find out the master was done. took the pedal sensor off for the push rod or the push rod sensor replaced the master and started the bleeding process all over again. been bleeding for over 2 more hours and the peddle comes back up sometime and sometimes it dosnt. trying to start the truck in gear grabs and wants to go forward but will not shift into gear while the truck is running. im 99.5 percent sure all air is out of the lines and i dont know if i missed something or not. im desperate now because i need the truck to get back and forth to work and get my kids. im at a loss. any help or ideas or anyone that has gone through this please help
 
There is still air some where

Remove reservoir cap and the air dam inside if it still has one, black rubber cup
Top up fluid in reservoir, leave cap off
Push pedal down to a floor and hold it down all the way, count to 5, repeat a few times
Check fluid level again, should not have changed

Now get a pan and get under the truck
Open bleeder on Slave let fluid run out slowly, called Gravity bleeding(works on brakes too), about 30seconds should do, close bleeder
Top up reservoir

Try clutch pedal now, see if its better

Only other place for air to hide is top of Master because of its angle up inside the cab
Its a pain to pull it out again, but if you want you can
Once its out tilt it so cab end is lower than where the hoses are
Need two people
Open bleeder on slave and push the pushrod in on the master, while its still pushed in closed bleeder
This causes any air in the master to be forced out into the hoses
Repeat gravity bleed

New clutch disc
While unusual this can happen, the new disc is too thick, especially if you didn't use a Self adjusting pressure plate
Only fix for this is to start the engine while in gear, should be able to hold it with brakes and shift while moving, but will NOT shift when stopped
The disc will wear down over a week or so and clutch will operate normally
 
Thank you Ron. I will be removing the master and the line to the slave and bleeding the whole thing and getting all air out of both before hooking to the slave again. They was going to try the gravity bleed on the slave while my dad filled up the reservoir about 3 to 4 timed then close it. Will update afterwards.
 
Did you replace the throwout bearing?
 
Yes the throw out bearing got changed. It's part of the new slave cylinder.
 
Update. Took out the clutch line from the slave cylinder and removed the master slave cylinder and push rod off the clutch and sensor. I zip tied it to a 2x4 and bench bled it out. Hooked everything back up and gravity bled thebslave cylinder with about 4 reservoirs full of fluid before closing the bleeder on the slave. Never let it run dry. Clutch is as perfect as it can be. Goes right into gear. Pedal springs right back up and it's amazing. Took it around the block for its first test drive in about 3 years and the new water pump inlet (made out of cheap plastic) cracked right down the side and started draining coolant. Ordered a metal one and going to pick it up and try for round 2 lol. Thank you all for the help
 

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