1996 Ranger SAS 4-link


yea i will just havent yet
 
ok well i decided to go with the johnny joints... ordering those in the next day or 2 need to order some DOM tubing... cant decide if i should go 1.75x.25 or 2.0x.25 any suggestions?
 
bigger is better:icon_thumby:
 
yea thats pretty much what i have decided LOL well I'm going to try and do a triangulated front links... the lowers i can get about 47 deg and the uppers will be around 10 i think i read somewhere that 40 deg is enough to keep the axle centered? i don't want to run a trac bar... thats the goal anyway... here is some pics of the links triangulated

1996 Ranger SAS 4-link


1996 Ranger SAS 4-link


1996 Ranger SAS 4-link
 
your going to get NASTY bump steer with that setup. You need a panhard bar with a mechanical steering link (draglink). Every time that suspension compresses or extends its going to push and pull your steering since the axle moves in a vertical motion and the steering in an arc.
 
So the triangulated bars are going to cause that? or just the steering set up thats on there? (im going to a different steering set up thats on there just to keep the wheels straight)
 
So the triangulated bars are going to cause that? or just the steering set up thats on there? (im going to a different steering set up thats on there just to keep the wheels straight)

its going to happen with any front link set up like that, you need the trac bar reguardless....
 
I was going to do the triangulated bar set up to try to avoid using a panhard bar set up.
 
well i just ordered my joints and tube adapters and the jam nuts... hopefully have them in a few days...
 
Johnny Joints anyone? i finally got them... they are huge!!!

1996 Ranger SAS 4-link
 
you can use the triangulated 4 link if you run full hydro, otherwise it's going to be pretty much undrivable due to the amount of bump steer.
 
threads are 1 1/4 by 3 inch long its 2.5 wide with a 9/16 bolt hole... ive been researcing the axle links for a while now... i dont dee why the triangulated will cause so much steering problems... im not running the stock steering set up if that changes anything....
 
threads are 1 1/4 by 3 inch long its 2.5 wide with a 9/16 bolt hole... ive been researcing the axle links for a while now... i dont dee why the triangulated will cause so much steering problems... im not running the stock steering set up if that changes anything....

What setup are you planning to run then?

Anything that has an attachment point to the frame (pitman arm) will move up and down through an arc. The triangulated 4link is designed to move straight up and down with relation to the frame/chassis. Herein lies the problem. You have the intersection of an arc with a line. The steering tab on the knuckle will want to follow the arc created by the drag link when the axle moves up and down. This will cause the wheels to turn, thus creating bumpsteer. By eliminating the steering linkage arc, you can have good steering throughout your suspension travel. The only way to do that would be with full hydraulic steering.

The other option is changing the way that the axle moves through its suspension cycle. Match the arc that the steering traverses and you have nearly no bumpsteer.




:icon_cheers:
 

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