1996 Ford Ranger 2.3 Coolant issue.

[Nstlfrk]

Ok here is the deal. I bought this truck and after driving down the HWY 40 miles or so it started to get hot. So I immediately changed out the T-stat and Radiator cap and that helped a little. But it started getting hot again so I decided to change out the water pump and it did need it.



Now the truck isn't getting as super hot but it is hotter then it should be. It is also building quite a bit of pressure both on the top hose and the bottom hose. So i removed the T-stat again to make sure it was not causing the issue. So now with the T-stat removed the truck is not really getting hot but is still building pressure.

There is no signs of a head gasket leak or cracked head I.E. mixture of fluids or any steam or bubbling. The coolant did not seem as if it had ever been flushed due to it was a terrible rusty color. It is not as rusty as it was but still has some brown color. It is not milky in any way just colored water consistency.

What all problems has everyone had with these coolant systems and is there anything else I can check as an issue?

Thanks ahead for any help on this. I love the truck and hope being my first one It does not ruin it for me.

 

[XLTsplash]

Pressure in the cooling system is normal. If the pressure gets too high coolant will be pushed into the over flow bottle. With the condition the cooling system was in. I would check the condition of the radiator. It's passages maybe clogged. New Radiators don't cost much and installing a flush T, to clean out the whole cooling system would be a good idea. I would also put the 195 thermostat back in.

 

[tomw]

If the coolant level in the radiator is low enough you might be able to see the ends of the tubes. If they are clogged, then XLT's recommendation to swap out the radiator sounds like a good idea. I don't know if shops will 'rod' out a radiator any more, but expect they don't. The clogging could be 'solder bloom' that sort of grows out of the tube-tank solder joint.
Given the pump vane condition, I think the system was severly neglected. It may have a lot of sludge, plugged tubes, a clogged heater core, and more, so a good flush seems in order. The Prestone Tees seem to do a decent job and are relatively cheap. I'd go that route first, put back together, and see what happens, using tap water. If it works OK, then drain that out, and add un-dilute coolant to 1/2 of the capacity, and fill the remainder with water. If your house water is hard, get some filtered or purfied water in a jug and use that.
tom

 

[Nstlfrk]

Thanks for the help and I did flush it but even after everything looking clear after I put it back together is turned a rusty color again. Also I could not see and clogging all lines and the radiator flowed great.

What is the correct procedure to tell if in fact I do have a cracked head?
I would think if it was a small enough crack that I would have many of these issue I am having.

 

[Nstlfrk]

Pressure in the cooling system is normal. If the pressure gets too high coolant will be pushed into the over flow bottle. With the condition the cooling system was in. I would check the condition of the radiator. It's passages maybe clogged. New Radiators don't cost much and installing a flush T, to clean out the whole cooling system would be a good idea. I would also put the 195 thermostat back in.

The system does not seem to push the coolant to the overflow tank. The cap is a brand new one.

 

[Nstlfrk]

Here is something I forgot to mention. It will stay cool as long as it just idels. As soon as you start driving is when it heats up.

 

[XLTsplash]

I use a combustion leak detector to test for blown a head gasket or cracked head. Here is one that Summit sells. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/l..._wLdVkG10wzIe0bd5fQdXtVkqPzXVlVqx3hoCjbXw_wcB
I use one for Napa Auto Parts. The Summit tester should work the same and costs less.

 

[tomw]

I think you need a radiator. If an engine overheats on the highway, it's usually the radiator, if it overheats in traffic, its the pump. The quick return of rust colored water means you still have stuff breaking loose (sludge & rust) now that you have a coolant pump that is moving the coolant... before, it wasn't being stirred at all. Before adding anti-freeze I would perform a few more flushes, drives and flush again. Once it will stay clear for a while, then add the anti-freeze.

What does "The radiator flowed great." mean? Did you look into the radiator itself and see the ends of the tubes? You should see nothing but clean metal and clear openings at the tube ends.
tom

 

[Nstlfrk]

I think you need a radiator. If an engine overheats on the highway, it's usually the radiator, if it overheats in traffic, its the pump. The quick return of rust colored water means you still have stuff breaking loose (sludge & rust) now that you have a coolant pump that is moving the coolant... before, it wasn't being stirred at all. Before adding anti-freeze I would perform a few more flushes, drives and flush again. Once it will stay clear for a while, then add the anti-freeze.

What does "The radiator flowed great." mean? Did you look into the radiator itself and see the ends of the tubes? You should see nothing but clean metal and clear openings at the tube ends.
tom

Everything is nice and clean after a good flush. It will still idle and stay at the half way mark on the gauge with out that large pressure build. Bbbut after you drive it a couple miles it starts getting hot again and of course builds a large amount of pressure.
By flows great
i mean it seem go flow out as fast as you pump water in. I took both hoses off and ran water in it. Came out nice and clear and did not seem to have any blockage.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If it had rusty water in it chances are the aluminum tubes in the radiator are plugged, and some of them possibly plugged by the fins from the water pump... I've torn apart radiators that seemed to flow OK just with a garden hose but the engines overheated and the aluminum oxidation in the tubes was crazy and you could only see through like 3 of the tubes... replaced the radiator and it fixed the problem... I just looked for your year it's as low as $80 plus shipping at rockauto.com

 

[tomw]

Testing using a garden hose will give un-valuable results. IOW, pretty much meaningless.

A sealed system will develop presssure. As long as it is below the pressure cap rating, it should be okay, given the cap installed has the proper rating.

What is the current status? Overheats on the highway?
tom

 

[Nstlfrk]

I wanted to give an update on this. After a new water pump, Cap, Thermostat and a Radiator it seems to be repaired. Stays around halfway at the gauge and if it is really hot pout side it will go up a little and then back down as if the Thermostat is opening and closing. But seems to be fine with out getting up to the H at all
thanks for all the help from everyone.

 

[XLTsplash]

That's good news you've got it fixed. Now just be sure to keep a good mix of fresh coolant and distilled water to keep your cooling system clean. I also use a coolant treatment made by Wix and sold at Napa Auto Parts under the name Napa Kool. It balances out the coolant.