1996 2.3 fan belt...

[Mark_88]

Is this supposed to be an arm exercise to install one on this engine or do I need to go to a gym to build up to it...

I did finally get it on but I was thinking there is no way I can return this belt now...stretched it and scuffed it up...

Is this supposed to be hard? I was worried that the belt tension might affect the water pump seal...that happened on my Zuki when the guy put the belt on really tight but it was supposed to have some slack...

Anyway...any input on this one is appreciated...

 

[Mark_88]

I forgot to mention...this is an a/c and PS delete belt...so just running it on the crank/water pump/alternator...

It is using the 98 2.5 fuel injected engine cleverly disguised as a 96 2.3...not like the old 88 2.3 where the alternator bracket is the adjustment point...it has the newer style with the adjustable pulley tension on the passenger side...

 

[enjr44]

I don't remember seeing a flat belt tensioner that was adjustable. Push it back, install belt, let her fly. I got to say, most are not easy.

 

[Mark_88]

Well, sorry, my description is wonky...the tension pulley pulls back and moves inward under its' own pressure so not really adjustable so to speak...but self adjusting...

It is reassuring to know that most are not easy...I was beginning to think I'd lost all upper body strength...

 

[enjr44]

Yep, I think the hard part is after you get the bar in there to pull the pulley back is figuring out how to hold it back while you get the belt on. I have used rope to tie off the bar. And then hoping it doesn't jump off and wack you before to get it done.

 

[Mark_88]

Haha...sounds familiar with other tasks I've done...I was able to keep one hand on it to hold it down and then slowly work the belt over the water pump pulley...I tried first with the alternator but it was too close and tight due to the crank pulley so I ended up with the water pump...

I actually let the tension pulley go into the belt a bit at a time and I think it helped to stretch the belt just enough to slip it on...but I was visualizing fingers in there and that gave me enough motivation to not let that happen...

 

[Mazda]

Aren't you guys using a serpentine belt tool (bar). On my 2.3 I loop everything around except for the alternator, pull back on the bar and it slips right on. Check to make sure it's all the way on and fire up the engine.

I just use a breaker bar with a 2 foot pipe on it.

 

[adsm08]

Using the wrong tools and methods serp belts can be tricky. A lot of getting a serp belt on easily is in which pulley you put it on last. As counter intuitive as it seems putting the belt on a ribbed pulley last is generally easier, and as such I generally make the alternator the last one because it is the smallest ribbed pulley, and usually out in the open somewhere.

 

[tomw]

A spring loaded or operated tensioner should be readily moved to allow belt installation using one hand. The ones I have seen have a square hole for insertion of a 3/8 or 1/2" drive extension or ratchet wrench. The tensioner should not have to move much to release the belt, nor to install it. If it has to be pulled back a ways, I'd suspect that the belt being installed is not of the proper lenght, as in too short. You should be able to deflect a tensioned belt on one of the longer 'runs' to feel the tension on the belt. I am not as good with serpentines as I was with V belts, but they aren't used any more, so I wing it with serpentine belt tension, on those that must be adjusted manually, and let the spring tension the belt on the others. If you have another vehicle with a spring tensioner, it might be a good idea to compare belt deflection on that with the one that is so difficult. It is easier and cheaper to get the proper belt if the incorrect length was installed than it is to replace the water pump, or altenator if their bearings are overloaded by a too-short belt causing too much tension.

Oh, using an extension on a ratchet or torque wtench, I have to hold the 'head' of the wrench with one hand while holding the handle with the other to avoid wobbly motion, but am able to feed the belt while holding the handle with one hand with not too much difficulty.
tom

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks again for the input guys. I had the 88 2.3 with a v-belt and there was supposed to be minimal play in the belt. That was not hard to do and check with a straight edge and deflect the belt downward. My Zuki was supposed to have about a 1/2" drop on a similar type belt.

The ribbed belt on this truck is flat and the belt itself doesn't appear to have any give at all initially. After mangling it around the water pump (I'm sure I could have easily buggered the pump seal) it did appear to have a bit more play. The ridges on the pulleys edges are about 1/8" deep so once we are over that it will see a bit more play also.

Mine has the 3/8" square socket drive opening and I used a ratchet about 8" long...I know I could have reefed on it better with a longer bar, but the battery tray happens to be in the way on this (88 Cab) side. Which is why I asked in the first place...I didn't think it would be too difficult..easier if anything compared to the older style with the alternator being the adjustment point.

The belt did not specifically say Ford 2.3 A/C PS delete and I'm sure they go by the length when deciding what part to use. This was a NAPA dealer I think and they have a wide variety of parts that are not OEM but close enough.

I'm sure I could get a belt that is an inch or so longer...the way I tried to measure it was to wrap the old belt around the pulleys and then pinch the excess between my fingers and guestimate the extra...I was then going to ask specifically for a belt close to that guestimate but didn't know two things: a) what I was talking about and b) even a remote inkling of how to measure a fan belt length...

I actually tried using a tape measure with the metal tape and you can imagine the language I was generating attempting to do that...it is virtually impossible to get an accurate reading that way...perhaps a tailors tape would be more appropriate...and I probably should have one since they are easier to work with in many cases...but I can't get out and about to seek out these items as easily as before...so I improvise...lol

 

[Mazda]

The battery clearance issue is why you should put a pipe on the end of the ratchet. Allows you to "pull up" a little on the bar so it doesn't hit the battery box. If I explained that right.

Use a piece or string. start around the crank pulley and go up. Tape in to the pulleys if you need to. Wrap around all of them and just measure the string length.

 

[Mark_88]

Yes, I read about using string and had thought about it...only problem with that was I have two rolls of string and can't find them when I need them...lol

I found the cardboard wrap for the belt that I just bought...it is 42" long but not really specific to Ford...like I mentioned before it's just the length they figured it needed. I think now that another inch wouldn't hurt in this case as the tension pulley has about 3" of travel from the widest open point to fully forward...

Might check to see if they have a 43" and how much that costs...this one was $23 something...most I've ever paid for a fan belt...because I used to get them free at the junkyard...

 

[tomw]

If you have the old belt that fit, you may find numbers indicating its size. You could also use a length of extension cord instead of a piece of string. The cord is flexible, non-stretchable, and convenient.
I would take a look at the tensioner to see if it is 'fully compressed' or is somewhere in its range. Some have an indicator, such as the 3.8 V6 in the T-bird, showing the fully compressed and fully extended range of the tensioner. If yours is at its 'tight' limit, you may have too much tension. I generally want to find some flex in a serpentine if I can locate a straight length of 8-10" to allow deflection. The 'book' says to use a gauge, which I don't have, so it is finger press time.
tom

 

[Mark_88]

If you have the old belt that fit, you may find numbers indicating its size. You could also use a length of extension cord instead of a piece of string. The cord is flexible, non-stretchable, and convenient.
I would take a look at the tensioner to see if it is 'fully compressed' or is somewhere in its range. Some have an indicator, such as the 3.8 V6 in the T-bird, showing the fully compressed and fully extended range of the tensioner. If yours is at its 'tight' limit, you may have too much tension. I generally want to find some flex in a serpentine if I can locate a straight length of 8-10" to allow deflection. The 'book' says to use a gauge, which I don't have, so it is finger press time.
tom

Thanks Tom...problem is, this is all new. I have the old belt but only the one that used the PS pulley...I removed the PS completely because it was leaking ...and my old fan belt was the 88 2.0 setup that used the alternator as the tension point with the adjustable sliding bracket...

The tension pulley was easy enough to move when I removed the original fan belt last year...about a year ago...and I got a bit distracted with things so when I finally got around to putting the smaller belt on it seemed really hard to move the tension pulley far enough...and when I finally managed to get the belt on it seemed tight enough...or too tight was my concern.

Haven't been able to start the engine since last time a few days ago since I put the belt on and half filled the rad with water...ran into a minor electrical problem that kept me busy since last night...turned out to be my battery charger was wonky and causing all kinds of symptoms...like buzzers going off...lights dimming and going out when other lights were turned on...

So...back to normal again...lol