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- Joined
- Aug 10, 2014
- Messages
- 504
- Age
- 33
- City
- Madison, IN
- Vehicle Year
- 1995
- Engine
- 4.0 V6
- Transmission
- Automatic
- Tire Size
- 215/70R15
This is an issue that has been plagued me for over year, ever since I bought the truck in August of 2014. My ABS doesn't work. I'll give a rundown of what I did and what happened as a result.
Which brings me to the present state.
The ABS computer works (as the power-on lamp test occurs), and since the valve swap I've gotten no ABS lights. However, if I slam the brakes, all I get are skid marks.
I'm out of ideas... I'd be tempted to say dicky wiring, but I'd figure I'd get some sort of ABS valve code if that were the case. Unless it's just high(er) resistance, which I could see doing this. That said, the wiring looked OK based on a visual inspection.
I do have wiring diagrams, which is how I bench-tested the valves.
Any suggestions here?
- When I bought the truck it had an intermittent ABS light. It eventually became a constant light. Around January 2015 I pulled the ABS code, code 12. I went through the circuitry and found the issue to be with the ABS computer itself, and upon opening the module, the I/O pin on the MCU chip. I went to pull-a-part for a fresh module...
- The new module still returned an ABS light, which gave the "working fine" code. I bought an NOS controller on ebay, which did the same. I then found out I had no light to begin with, as the LEDs in my Dash didn't agree with the ABS module's current-modulated lamp driver. Swapping the ABS light to a bulb resulted in both computers returning no ABS light.
- However, my ABS still didn't engage. I next went after the speed sensor, as they're cheap and easy (sorta) to replace. I made the swap and the old one tested good, but only barely so. Still no RABS function.
- Next, I tackled the RABS valve. I did get an ABS valve code for a short bit, so that was my initial rationale for going that direction. Once again, a trip to pull-a-part and I made the swap. The old valve tested good before I swapped, although I suspected the valve was stuck, which a multimeter test woudn't tell me. The new valve didn't fix the issue.
Which brings me to the present state.
The ABS computer works (as the power-on lamp test occurs), and since the valve swap I've gotten no ABS lights. However, if I slam the brakes, all I get are skid marks.
I'm out of ideas... I'd be tempted to say dicky wiring, but I'd figure I'd get some sort of ABS valve code if that were the case. Unless it's just high(er) resistance, which I could see doing this. That said, the wiring looked OK based on a visual inspection.
I do have wiring diagrams, which is how I bench-tested the valves.
Any suggestions here?
