1994 ranger xlt with premium sound questions?

[rednektrash]

I'm swapping out the factory system for a new head unit and my ranger came with the "premium sound" with factory amp. I'd like to just make it plug and play so I looked on crutchfield and found the correct adapter plugs but I wasnt exactly happy when I read the reviews on the adapters they sell. I was wondering if anyone else has used these adapters or have you just bypassed the factory amp.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142C4F...-Adapter.html?tp=3486&tab=review&rvm=ShowAllt

 

[Original_Ranger84]

I would say just be careful putting it in, or take each individual connection and re crimp and sodder it of you really want to keep the amp... if you plan on installing an external amp later I would just bypass it now...

 

[rednektrash]

what would be the best/easiest way to go about bypassing it?

 

[Original_Ranger84]

The only way would be to run wire from the stereo directly to the speakers though the doors.

 

[Ranger SVO]

One other way, the Metra Plug 70-5605. It plugs in at the amp so you don't need to run speaker wires. It also comes with the power plug.

Check Metra Online for more info

 

[rednektrash]

Thanks for the info guys, now one more quick question, where is the factory amp located at?

 

[Ranger SVO]

I removed the factory amp from my 93 back in 1995. Lets see if I can remember that far back.

Mine is a standard cab, it was on the passenger side just forward of the right rear speaker and a little higher. I pulled the panel to get it out.

The extended cab had the amp in about the same location. But I dont know if it would be to the left or right of the jump seat.

But its there

 

[rednektrash]

alright thanks, mines a '94 regular cab and i heard somewhere that it could either be in the rear panel like you said or in the kick panel i guess theres only one way to find out for sure haha

 

[Ranger SVO]

I've heard that some were in the kickpanel, but I have never seen one there.

I have seen an old Kenwood in a kickpanel once

 

[mazdab40004x4]

I just did this install on my 94 B4000 extended cab which is nearly identical to your 94 ranger. The factory amp is located under the front passenger side kick panel. Two screws, a little prying and its out.

I decided to bypass the amp and got the kit from crutchfield to do it. Here's how it was listed on the invoice:

120705008 Ford/Mazda Wire Harness receiver, w/ amp bypass

It was a little tricky feeding the wire for the bypass kit down from the radio location behind the glove box and down to the amp location. The heater/fan airbox etc are in the way and the path is small. With persistence and small hands it can be done.

I soldered all the wires together that needed connecting with heat shrink on top. Ran the wires for the bypass, plugged everything in and it worked.

 

[Steve_K]

audio power amp draining battery

My situation is similar. I've traced a 0.3-amp parasitic drain to the audio power amp (fuse #16, 20A). Pulling the fuse, the radio still works (it's on fuse #15) but then there's no sound from the speakers. (There's also no more current drain. I'm weighing if it's more important for the truck to run or to sound good.)

I replaced the radio a month ago. It was definitely not working right, and the new radio definitely is. With the amp fuse in place, the sound out of front and back speakers was great.

The previous poster said he used a Metra 70-5008 harness. The one I installed, recommended by a very experienced tech at Best Buy, was a Metra 70-5511. Photos of the two, they look the same.

Anyone ever see this before, or have an idea why the power amp would be drawing current even when the truck is powered off?

And how do you troubleshoot this, short of replacing the power amp, which of course I don't have an extra lying around?

I have a Haynes manual for the Ford Ranger. It says the B4000 is also covered. But there's nothing on the power amp. Where it is, how to replace it, etc. Have been striking out online too.

Thanks for all advice.

Another wild and crazy idea: I install a switch on the audio circuit. (Not yet clear how to best do this.) When the truck is parked, the switch is off, so no current drain. When the truck is being driven, the switch is on, letting me hear the radio or CD. This is obviously a kludge/ghetto solution, but the advantage is that I don't have to access or replace the audio amp, which some online research says is pretty hard. What do you think?

-- Steve (1994 B4000, extended cab, bought in 1996, apple of my wife's eye)

 

[Steve_K]

never mind ... finito

http://community.cartalk.com/discus...sitic-drain-from-audio-amp-can-i-switch-it/p1