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1994 Ranger 4x4 4.0 to ? swap.


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These look wasted to me. I crawled under the truck and the steering gear is new. Had my wife rotate the steering wheel and it looks like the rubber in those joints flex quite a bit before applying enough force to engage the steering gear. Looks like 1 through bolt and one other bolt on bottom would release the whole shaft assembly. I'm not having any luck finding a replacement though. So I guess replace the rag joints or modify something else is the only solution? Seems like most shafts telescope some, so you'd think there would be viable options not requiring cutting and welding or whatever. I admit I'm a novice.
 
Most have a "double D" shaft that telescopes during an accident to keep the steering column out of your chest.
 
you have the other style that does not pull out of the firewall side as far as the style onmy truck.......but the 94 style cherocar should be fittable in the same manner
 
you have the other style that does not pull out of the firewall side as far as the style onmy truck.......but the 94 style cherocar should be fittable in the same manner
it's fighting me, 30 years are rust and road grime. It's unbolted but not wanting to budge top or bottom, gave it a PB Blaster bath, we'll see if that helps at all. I'm probably doing it wrong. :D

Got the bottom off, I think I found an excuse to buy some pickle forks for the top, PB blaster, torch, pry bar, nothing.
 
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waaaay back in the day....with gen 1 trucks i would just use the aerostar shafts.


good luck finding one of those critters in the junkyard. as to the rangers and explorers.... there are a few different shafts starting with the plastic headlight trucks. i would have to see what you have.

the 94 grand cherokee style is workable. you have to cut em up sometimes. just depends on what you actually have. i dont like rag joints...prefer u joints.

Not finding great photos of these Cherokee Shafts. Do they have the through bolt on top collar? If so that should be an easy way to fix my problem.
 
This thing, I swear it wants me to completely tear it apart and do a swap among other things. Anyways, simple job of removing the steering shaft has turned into a bigger job. I'm pretty sure the picklefork idea was a good one, except that the movement did not come from where I expected. It seems I am just pulling the shaft out of the firewall and not sliding the collar off the shaft. It has moved 2 inches and I can only imagine what damage I did higher up the line. :confused: Amateur hour, I know. I admit it.
 
This thing, I swear it wants me to completely tear it apart and do a swap among other things. Anyways, simple job of removing the steering shaft has turned into a bigger job. I'm pretty sure the picklefork idea was a good one, except that the movement did not come from where I expected. It seems I am just pulling the shaft out of the firewall and not sliding the collar off the shaft. It has moved 2 inches and I can only imagine what damage I did higher up the line. :confused: Amateur hour, I know. I admit it.


it has a few inches of travel....just not as much as mine....


you want it out another inch so you can add a little bolt so it cant slide off.


sometimes you have to pull the whole column out so you can give it a good and proper ass whoopin.


wish you were closer. way easier just to do it with you. i take alot of shit for granted.
 
it has a few inches of travel....just not as much as mine....


you want it out another inch so you can add a little bolt so it cant slide off.


sometimes you have to pull the whole column out so you can give it a good and proper ass whoopin.


wish you were closer. way easier just to do it with you. i take alot of shit for granted.
I'm very close to getting the sawzalll out and lopping an inch off that piece coming out of the firewall. I've tried PB blaster, torch, rotary hammer, pickle forks, it hasn't moved even a little bit. I'm out of ideas and don't see removing the column inside as being an option because this is the joint you would separate it anyways.
 
I'm very close to getting the sawzalll out and lopping an inch off that piece coming out of the firewall. I've tried PB blaster, torch, rotary hammer, pickle forks, it hasn't moved even a little bit. I'm out of ideas and don't see removing the column inside as being an option because this is the joint you would separate it anyways.


i have had to pull it through the firewall to do this. there are a few different styles so maybe it wont fit but so far they all fit. doing lower bearings and column swaps it has happened more then once....and just faster to leave it.
 
i have had to pull it through the firewall to do this. there are a few different styles so maybe it wont fit but so far they all fit. doing lower bearings and column swaps it has happened more then once....and just faster to leave it.
I appreciate the help, it won't fit through the firewall with the 2 rag joints on it. This is the year to year and a half they had this particular setup and it's horrible. I could maybe get something done with the engine out. :D there's just not any room to really wind up and give it hell. I'll keep trying, but it hasn't moved at all.
 
then bolt press it. that will work. just a pia. i do it for clutch pins ect.


take that pinch bolt and match the thread to a normal thread length bolt if you have to....put a piece of key stock or a nut sideways on the shaft and use the bolt from the other side to spread it open.... or just whizzer wheel it off.
 
judging by your picture....
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it should go through with the bolts removed.


i went out and looked at my bronco.... looks like the same door. looks. would not surprise me if you have a symmetrical hole like my ranger.....




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of course the ranger has the v8 diesel in it

so it has a 79 steering box to go with the 79 dana 60 outside of the frame rail to make room for the fat bastard engine.

it uses the wrangler style unit.




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judging by your picture....
I air hammered the hell out of it, then smacked the hell out of the seem with a punch and it finally let go.

Rebuild the rag joints or find something else is the question now. You say those Cherokee shafts will work if you shorten them? I'd rather not have floppy joints make of rubber or whatever these are.



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