1994 E-150 ignition troubleshooting help 160k

[MISWFL]

My 1994 E-150 conversion van died on the freeway a few years ago. Just cruising along and bang or pop and then nothing. I cranked it a bunch and nothing, but maybe one fraction of a second it sounded like it was going to fire. I figured it was a timing chain, but later on checking the distributor, it was turning fine. Before that I had two ignition failures. One was the original ignition module that I replaced with a Motorcraft from Rock auto and used white heat paste on the heat sink. The other was the Distributor/Cam position sensor. I replaced it with a new aftermarket one, maybe Cardone.

I didn't have a Ford non OBD code reader then and could never figure out the codes using a jumper. I should have gotten a reader then to check the ECU, but didn't. I did some parts swapping ( Distributor and Coil ) with new aftermarket parts and nothing changed. I removed the ECU and opened it up to look for bad caps or shorts. It looks and smells perfect inside. Fuses and relays seem good. I didn't have any spare diode/fuse to check and could make sense of reading the resistance.

I'm in Florida and once the weather cools off in a few months, I'd like to get it back on the road. Any suggestions of what to look at would be much appreciated.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Just because the distributor rotor turns... doesn't mean the timing chain didn't jump.

You really need to check for slop in the chain.

A tell tale sign it jumped would be engine cranking speed. Typically they crank noticeably faster after jumping time.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I would also perform a compression test...

That will give you a good look at the condition of the engine.

 

[MISWFL]

Supposedly the timing chain was replaced before I got it. If that happened, the timing mark for TDC won't line up for I assume #1 cylinder valves being at TDC? I can pull the valve covers off to check that.

 

[Uncle Gump]

The valves on any given cylinder are closed long before... and long after TDC. So it would be tough to confirm anything but the valves being closed... without using a degree wheel and dial indicator on the valve.

Check for slop... rotating crank one direction with rotor moving. Reverse direction until rotor moves... while noting degrees of crankshaft rotation it takes between the two actions.

Compression test... arguably the best test to help determine the mechanical health of your engine. And... time well spent if for no other reason but peace of mind.

 

[MISWFL]

I wasn't thinking of that. If the cam timing is off, the compression won't be correct. That's an easy test.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Now you're smelling what I'm stepping in...

It's also worth checking the slop even if the compression numbers are OK. It's only 8 degrees of rotation that it should be changed.

 

[MISWFL]

Now you're smelling what I'm stepping in...

It's also worth checking the slop even if the compression numbers are OK. It's only 8 degrees of rotation that it should be changed.

Are aftermarket timing chains junk compared to OEM? The timing chain was done like 15 years ago. The van sat for 10 years before I got it. I drove it for a few years locally not much mileage. I know the timing chain kit came from NAPA.

Does that engine use anything wear prone with the timing gears like plastic tips for noise reduction? If so, is there something aftermarket that doesn't wear too fast? I don't care about engine noise.