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1993 Splash build


Because if I SAS with a D30 it would be my DD road whore. And huge tires accelerate wheel bearing wear.lol

-PlumCrazy

So very true, ask me how I know. :mad:

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2
 
I thought that statement sounded a little odd coming from you :thefinger:

Yeah, I almost put D28 instead.

If I found a narrowed 44 I would put that in my truck instead of the 35 I just put in.
 
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Pulled her out of the garage and drove her around for the first time today. Im still having trouble with my suspension moving. Its still binding my steering. As I drive, the suspension goes from perfectly aligned, to the tires looking like / \ then back to perfectly aligned. I really dont know where to go from here. I guess I'll recheck my alignment (it might be off again) and go from there.

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Its not your alignment, its your steering linkage/setup. From what Ive learned early on in my TTB ventures, youre best off going with a superrunner type steering setup. Every stonecrusher type setup that Ive worked on/heard about has had similar issues. If you really want to put in the time, best is a single swinger setup (what Ill be running).
 
So there's really no other alternative to this problem other than dropping some major coin on steering? Other than swapping to a stiffer coil of course.
 
So there's really no other alternative to this problem other than dropping some major coin on steering? Other than swapping to a stiffer coil of course.

SAS would have been quicker and cheaper.lol


-PlumCrazy
 
Clearanced my steering. Have plenty of room at full bump now.

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Crawlin, you mentioned you were worried about the forces applied on this setup. This setup is very simular to the TTB's setup except the pivot point is moved towards the middle of the vehicle.

I think I see at least a few parts of the problem.

The stock steering system is shaped like this: ^

Your system is now shaped like this: =

As the suspension tries to flex the ends are able to flex in against each other directly, allowing the two wheels to push against each other. The stock geometry prevents this by putting the two links at angles against each other, meaning that the force is applied obliquely making it harder for the wheels to push each other around. Changing the angle of the long link (bring the pitman arm back up) and moving the pivot back towards the pitman should fix the problem.
 
So you're saying try an FA400 pitman arm?

That probably equates to what I am saying.

What I am saying is raise the bottom of the pitman 2 inches and see what happens. I know the pic you posted there is on a bit of an angle, but it looks like your center link is pretty level compared to the factory geometry. If I understand the purpose of a drop arm correctly it is to return the center link to it's original angle after a severe amount of lift has been added.
 
My steering travels directly WITH the beams as it sits now. I'll see if I can borrow an FA400 from my buddy to see what it does.

I looked into swing set style steering and it's only usefull on Cut & turned beams. I also looked into the superrunner steering. Might give that one a try if this doesnt work out.
 

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