1991 2wd to 4wd conversion

[BullFrog13x4]

Hello everybody,

I am starting to gather up some parts for my conversion, i am a cheep sob so i am going to limit my funds for the entire project to $2000.00 and i paid $500.00 for the truck and $200 for the axle. So i only have $1300.00 left for the rest of the parts i need. Does anybody have any suggestions on how i can save a little money on some of the parts? As in what junk yard parts will work for what? I have also started to make a list of the parts i am going to need. This conversion will be a while down the road, mid summer. I just thought if i start to gather up parts now then i will have a shot at beating the fastest conversion time.(joking) I believe that award goes to escort_gts

here is what i think i am going to need. (please dont hesitate to chime in if i missed something)

d-30 axle (complete wheel to wheel)
long arm kit? adjustable?
long arm mounting brackets
coil springs
tie rod + ends
drag link + ends
trac bar? adjustable?
track bar bracket
brake lines rubber + steel (front, 4 rubber lines- 2 for Long arms and 2 for front steering - T fitting)
front shocks
rear shocks
rear 63" leafs
rear blocks, from 4x4 ranger (junk yard)
new rear u bolts
rear brake lines (rubber + steel only need the steel cuz they are bad)
transfer case (divorced, possibly a Nissan t-100)
drive-shafts (front + rear)
U-jount (for transmission output hub connecting to trans case input hub)
cross-members (trans + trans case)
transfer case shifter (will need to be custom built for the T-100)

I am sure there is more and i will update the list as i figure it out.

What i have acquired so far.

d-30 axle late model cherokee high pinion, $200.00 from a jeep friend.
(complete wheel to wheel ready to use with 4:10 gears and steering linkage)
front coil springs from late model wrangler, free got them with axle
rear 63" leafs, free from a friend at jk yard

I know i have a long way to go, but it is a start.

I have been reading a lot as is always the first thing anybody is told to do. That is how i figured out this list so far. As for what i am planing to do with this truck when it is finished. I am planing on driving all over the place, from a dd to a ww and sometimes beyond. I will most likely occasionally travel to other states to visit family and friends. I will most definitely be out in the woods with it a lot as that is my favorite past time, no real hard wheeling just some regular trails and mild mud. I am going to be running 30" tires that were designed for old military jeeps (super traction h78's). Mainly because of the cost and they will fit my rims with an awesome tread pattern. I do not want a giant lift. I just want it to fit without tire rub. I am not looking for any kind of extreme suspension travel, actually i would rather concentrate on it being a good road truck and then worry about the trails. I have seen the d-30 arguments and for a dd/ww with 30"s and a 5spd 3.0 i think it will sure beet the crap out of a 2wd. As for my choice of using the divorced trans case, i think it would be easier because i will not have to mess with the trans and i can even use any engine/ trans combo i want to later on in the future plus my jk yard friend will sell me one for a song, $50.00 because they have a ton of them and don't sell to many. By the way, here is a dumb question. Is there a preferred make of case i should get? ie Ford Chevy Chrysler, i now it needs a drivers side dump. The last thing i want to be able to do with this build is, i want to be able to swap it over to another truck in the future, so i will bolt on as much as possible. I plan on fabricating all of my own hardware except for the long arms (i really like those adjustable ones pricy though), and i am going to reuse the stock coil buckets.


With all of that said, please if you have any pointers or ideas don't hesitate to chime in.

Bullfrog13x4

 

[1986fordranger]

sounds like a cool build , over the years i have thought about doing a divorced tranfer case on my truck too , what i came up with for best fitment is a t case from a 1980 to 1986 nissan 720 4wd truck transfer case , its of the divorced design , is pretty light (compared to a 150 lb np205) and drops out on the drivers side , i imagine you already know this , but anyway you'll also need to regear your current rear axle to 4.10 to match your front axle or swap it out for an 8.8 with 4.10s from another ranger or explorer

 

[BullFrog13x4]

sounds like a cool build , over the years i have thought about doing a divorced tranfer case on my truck too , what i came up with for best fitment is a t case from a 1980 to 1986 nissan 720 4wd truck transfer case , its of the divorced design , is pretty light (compared to a 150 lb np205) and drops out on the drivers side , i imagine you already know this , but anyway you'll also need to regear your current rear axle to 4.10 to match your front axle or swap it out for an 8.8 with 4.10s from another ranger or explorer

I haven't even considered a Nissan trans case, thanks for the tip. I jumped on that d-30 specifically because it is a 4:10 and my truck already has a 7.5 4:10 in the rear, witch means i don't have to do anything to the front axle except mount it and run. Do you know where i can find out more about that Nissan trans case? like maybe a link to a breakdown of it or some forums. I know just google it, i can hear them thoughts guys.

 

[1986fordranger]

i know i have more info on the nissan transfer case's, although most of it is on my other computer , but its a start , here's a parts breakdown http://www.nissanpartszone.com/components/1985-nissan-720-pickup_transfer-case-331-446.html

 

[BullFrog13x4]

I just had another question pop into my head.

When using a divorced trans case, is there a minimal length of the center drive-shaft? (the one that connects the transmission to the trans case, for those who don't already know this)

I am thinking if there is not any minimum, then i might just get one u joint to connect both yolks together (one of those with two different sizes) and mount the trans case as tight to the transmission as possible. This will make for less parts that can break and make clearance issues for the front drive-shaft easier to deal with, it might even clear the gas tank this way. Plus i will only need to get two shafts built instead of three, so less money tied up in shafts witch means more for the rest of the build.

What do you guys think about that?

 

[BullFrog13x4]

i know i have more info on the nissan transfer case's, although most of it is on my other computer , but its a start , here's a parts breakdown http://www.nissanpartszone.com/components/1985-nissan-720-pickup_transfer-case-331-446.html

Thank you sir.

That does look like it might clear the gas tank, i might end up moving the tank back a few inches, and that is a few more saved dollars for the rest of the build.

 

[BullFrog13x4]

The more i look at that Nissan 720 the more i like it, it has all three yolks fixed. That is definitely a plus, no pulled out drive-shafts. I am going to the jk yard this weekend to pickup a few other parts for this build and maybe an engine, when i go i am going to see if they have one of those 720's for sure. I am going to try to get the drive-shafts with it because it will make life easier and cheaper for my machine shop.

 

[BullFrog13x4]

I just found some info on the Nissan Transfer case.







It is a gear'd case, with a 2.07:1 low range. This is a Nissan T100 and it is built to be vertically mounted with the input going to the hub out there by its self and the output front and rear on the bottom. This will definitely clear the gas tank, but it does raise a question about ground clearance. if a guy wanted to use a passangers side drop front axle i would suggest this case for sure as this is NOT a drivers side drop case, it is a center drop case.

And supposedly it can handle a small block v8 (according to the guys over at pirate 4x4).

 

[Ford78]

Looks like u really have good start on how u going to do your sas. keep up the good work