1990 Ford Ranger Dana 35 TTB CRUSHED Sleeve, please advise.

[sharpesteye]

I was originally just needing to replace the pinion yoke, as one of the ears that held the u-joint caps on broke off. So I measured the preload on the bearings, an ok 7-8in/lbs. Worn but not too bad. I was planning to just put the torque right back where it was. But, in an attempt to remove the seal, I crushed the crush sleeve (note: don't use a gear puller to remove that seal). The shaft that leads to the drive line, or where I removed the pinion yoke from, (I'm not sure if it's technically the input or output?) is totally locked up. I feel stupid believe me, a 20 minute job now a 3-5 hour job.

I have found some good resources as to the layout of the diff and there's one three part YouTube video of someone removing it but it's not very detailed. I just need to replace the crush sleeve. I realize that I'm going to need to take the whole diff out, but in order to do that, it looks like I pretty much have to undo the front end entirely. I guess I am looking for what I can do to make this as easy as possible. The diff is fine, I just need to fix my mistake. Please let me know if there's a way to make this as painless as possible. If that's even possible at this point... are there any modifications I should make when I'm in as deep as I'm about to be?

 

[SenorNoob]

Whilst I had mine out, I added a hole into the back of the lowest hole to use as a very slow drain.

I also did the Echo spring c-clip eliminator mod.

Dana 35 / 28 C-Clip Eliminator (External) - The Ranger Station

This is another way to eliminate the E-Clip found in the 1984-1990 Bronco II, 1991-1994 Explorer, or a 1983-1997 Ranger Dana Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front suspension. Difficulty: 4 out of 10, some welding may be required. Part: Echo Spring, Echo Part … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

Amazon.com: Echo/Shindaiwa 69621655730 Spring : Industrial & Scientific

Buy Echo/Shindaiwa 69621655730 Spring: Extension - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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I used a split collar on the shaft where they ran the weld in the photo.
It makes future service/repair easier. At least you can pull the axle shaft without taking the diff off the beam.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Whilst I had mine out, I added a hole into the back of the lowest hole to use as a very slow drain.

I also did the Echo spring c-clip eliminator mod.

Dana 35 / 28 C-Clip Eliminator (External) - The Ranger Station

This is another way to eliminate the E-Clip found in the 1984-1990 Bronco II, 1991-1994 Explorer, or a 1983-1997 Ranger Dana Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front suspension. Difficulty: 4 out of 10, some welding may be required. Part: Echo Spring, Echo Part … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

Amazon.com: Echo/Shindaiwa 69621655730 Spring : Industrial & Scientific

Buy Echo/Shindaiwa 69621655730 Spring: Extension - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I used a split collar on the shaft where they ran the weld in the photo.
It makes future service/repair easier. At least you can pull the axle shaft without taking the diff off the beam.

It is hard to get enough downtravel in a stock height truck to get the diff out without removing the beam. I have only done in the JY and it was an absolute brawl.

I didn't know about the drain until after I swapped mine in. I did the Echo C clip eliminator and upgraded to 760 ujoints while I was there. Also if you go that far don't forget to give the spindle bearings/seals some love, they are often forgot about until they chew up the axle shafts.

 

[sharpesteye]

Whilst I had mine out, I added a hole into the back of the lowest hole to use as a very slow drain.

I also did the Echo spring c-clip eliminator mod.

Dana 35 / 28 C-Clip Eliminator (External) - The Ranger Station

This is another way to eliminate the E-Clip found in the 1984-1990 Bronco II, 1991-1994 Explorer, or a 1983-1997 Ranger Dana Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front suspension. Difficulty: 4 out of 10, some welding may be required. Part: Echo Spring, Echo Part … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

Amazon.com: Echo/Shindaiwa 69621655730 Spring : Industrial & Scientific

Buy Echo/Shindaiwa 69621655730 Spring: Extension - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I used a split collar on the shaft where they ran the weld in the photo.
It makes future service/repair easier. At least you can pull the axle shaft without taking the diff off the beam.

So forgive me for the lack of knowledge on this, but the spring mod you’re talking about does what exactly? All I see is you get rid of the cclip that holds it in place and put a spring there instead? Is the cclip not accessible when it’s installed normally?

Also that hole you added into the threads of where a bolt goes, does it leak?? I wasn’t sure the threads of a bolt would be enough to seal that up completely.

Thank you for this pointers, I’d like to learn more about it!

 

[sharpesteye]

It is hard to get enough downtravel in a stock height truck to get the diff out without removing the beam. I have only done in the JY and it was an absolute brawl.

I didn't know about the drain until after I swapped mine in. I did the Echo C clip eliminator and upgraded to 760 ujoints while I was there. Also if you go that far don't forget to give the spindle bearings/seals some love, they are often forgot about until they chew up the axle shafts.

Thanks! I’ll check on the bearings. This will be my first time diving into a differential I’m excited.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I was pretty sure the crush sleeve is just behind the outer pinion bearing which isn't pressed on the shaft, I don't think the crush sleeve is pressed on the pinion so might just slide out the back with it installed.

 

[sharpesteye]

I was pretty sure the crush sleeve is just behind the outer pinion bearing which isn't pressed on the shaft, I don't think the crush sleeve is pressed on the pinion so might just slide out the back with it installed.

Ok if that’s true, which I hope it is lol, how would I get that shaft that currently won’t spin or move at all, to come out and be free spinning again?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Ok if that’s true, which I hope it is lol, how would I get that shaft that currently won’t spin or move at all, to come out and be free spinning again?

Which shaft?

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'm moved this to the axle forum...

Confused at using a gear puller to remove the pinion seal...

 

[sharpesteye]

I'm moved this to the axle forum...

Confused at using a gear puller to remove the pinion seal...

I couldn’t pry it out successfully. Wasn’t thinking about the effect it would have on the shaft :/ live and you learn.

 

[sharpesteye]

Which shaft?

The pinion shaft. The shaft that connects to the pinion yoke and then eventually the front driveline.

It’s totally locked up since putting too much pressure on it. Wont turn. I should be able to just pull it back out to loosen it, but the crush sleeve is for sure crushed and needs replacing.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Do you have automatic hubs by chance?

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

I also don't really get what you did with the gear puller.

 

[sharpesteye]

Do you have automatic hubs by chance?

No. I swapped them for manual hubs a while back. They work well!

 

[sharpesteye]

I also don't really get what you did with the gear puller.

I don't wanna re-live it

The seal wouldn't come out, so I had a gear puller which I inverted so the arms were pointed outwards, I put the center of the gear puller on the center of the shaft and tried to pull the seal out. It didn't work, and I realize now it forced that forward enough to crush the sleeve.