1990 Ford Ranger Dana 35 TTB CRUSHED Sleeve, please advise.

[lowspeedpursuit]

Don't take this as gospel, but you crush the sleeve by pushing down on the yoke, which pushes down on the outer pinion bearing, etc. If you pushed the pinion itself in using the puller, doesn't it seem more like you just unseated the pinion so it fell into interference with the ring gear?

The seal is ultimately out, right? If you put the yoke back on and lightly tighten the nut to pull the pinion up, it still doesn't spin at all?

I'm not sure if you've already considered all of that, I'm just having trouble understanding how you'd crush the sleeve with the yoke out. Or really crush it by accident at all. Getting a crush sleeve to (or past) the spec point takes mondo torque.

Do you have a picture of how everything is sitting now?

 

[Curious Hound]

You may not have messed up the crush sleeve. To do that, you would have had to be pushing in the inner bearing race, not the pinion shaft. You may have just pushed the pinion shaft/gear in and jammed it hard on the ring gear.

Either way, it would be wise to pull the carrier out and investigate. Judging by your apparent experience level with this, ii would encourage you to have a reputable shop look at it.

 

[Curious Hound]

Don't take this as gospel, but you crush the sleeve by pushing down on the yoke, which pushes down on the outer pinion bearing, etc. If you pushed the pinion itself in using the puller, doesn't it seem more like you just unseated the pinion so it fell into interference with the ring gear?

The seal is ultimately out, right? If you put the yoke back on and lightly tighten the nut to pull the pinion up, it still doesn't spin at all?

I'm not sure if you've already considered all of that, I'm just having trouble understanding how you'd crush the sleeve with the yoke out. Or really crush it by accident at all. Getting a crush sleeve to (or past) the spec point takes mondo torque.

Do you have a picture of how everything is sitting now?

You beat me to it by mere seconds

 

[Curious Hound]

Don't take this as gospel, but you crush the sleeve by pushing down on the yoke, which pushes down on the outer pinion bearing, etc. If you pushed the pinion itself in using the puller, doesn't it seem more like you just unseated the pinion so it fell into interference with the ring gear?

The seal is ultimately out, right? If you put the yoke back on and lightly tighten the nut to pull the pinion up, it still doesn't spin at all?

I'm not sure if you've already considered all of that, I'm just having trouble understanding how you'd crush the sleeve with the yoke out. Or really crush it by accident at all. Getting a crush sleeve to (or past) the spec point takes mondo torque.

Do you have a picture of how everything is sitting now?

That’s a better way of wording what I said

 

[Uncle Gump]

Yeah... it takes a bunch of effort the crush the sleeve.

It's normal the pull the yoke with a puller and has never damaged a crush sleeve.

I'd slide the yoke on... start the nut... and a brass hammer to the backside of the yoke to free the pinion. You likely just got it wedged a bit... and needs some persuasion to free it up again.

 

[sharpesteye]

I see I see. This is good information... generally well accepted information. I admit I did not think of this as a possibility, but again I have not gone into much differential work yet.

So what you all have shared is probably true and my solution is much easier than I anticipated.

Just for the record, when people say something like this:

Judging by your apparent experience level with this, ii would encourage you to have a reputable shop look at it.

I think you're doing more harm than good.

If we go around telling people this, even random joes on a ranger forum, we'll never learn. I've only been 'mechanicing' for a couple years but I primarily have done engine/transmission work. So this is just another part of the world of mechanics that I am yet to venture, but that doesn't mean I should give in and 'have a shop look at it'. I got myself into trouble and I'll figure out my way out of the trouble. That's how everyone before me did it, and I'll run it again. Fortunately I have many other wonderful humans willing to share their thoughts on this forum! And now I can put your ideas into action.

The seal is ultimately out, right? If you put the yoke back on and lightly tighten the nut to pull the pinion up, it still doesn't spin at all?

I'm going to try this tonight and I'll let y'all know what happens. I appreciate the advice! I like learning new things. I like learning from people! And I tend to assume I caused massive destruction when things go like this... but I need to just do some more research and perhaps I'll realize it's not as bad as I imagined.

 

[sharpesteye]

Yeah... it takes a bunch of effort the crush the sleeve.

It's normal the pull the yoke with a puller and has never damaged a crush sleeve.

I'd slide the yoke on... start the nut... and a brass hammer to the backside of the yoke to free the pinion. You likely just got it wedged a bit... and needs some persuasion to free it up again.

I'm going to try this tonight! I'll let yall know what happens. I think you're right...

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'm going to try this tonight! I'll let yall know what happens. I think you're right...

It likely just needs a few taps...

Don't go full on beast mode.

 

[sharpesteye]

Yall were right. I tapped it out lightly once with a hammer and it came free. Took the seal out, (went to harbor freight and bought the seal remover for $8 that I should’ve bought days ago, did it that way) and put the new seal in. Put the yoke on and torqued it down to get the rotational inlb that it was set to before taking everything apart. Going to top off the diff and put the driveshaft back in. Thanks guys.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Yall were right. I tapped it out lightly once with a hammer and it came free. Took the seal out, (went to harbor freight and bought the seal remover for $8 that I should’ve bought days ago, did it that way) and put the new seal in. Put the yoke on and torqued it down to get the rotational inlb that it was set to before taking everything apart. Going to top off the diff and put the driveshaft back in. Thanks guys.

Glad it all worked out.

Also glad you posted your follow up. Many people don't and leave the thread hanging inconclusive. Your conclusion just may help other members in the future.

Just to ensure you're aware...

That pinion nut gets buried pretty tight. You sure you got it tight enough? Like if you held the yoke by hand and tightened it down with a socket and ratchet... it's probably not tight enough.

 

[sharpesteye]

Glad it all worked out.

Also glad you posted your follow up. Many people don't and leave the thread hanging inconclusive. Your conclusion just may help other members in the future.

Just to ensure you're aware...

That pinion nut gets buried pretty tight. You sure you got it tight enough? Like if you held the yoke by hand and tightened it down with a socket and ratchet... it's probably not tight enough.

Yeah I did! I had a breaker bar on it, locked the yoke up & gave it some beans. I was careful to not go over and recrush the sleeve beyond what the rotational force was before. I got it to match up and it feels good I test drove it and didn’t hear any weird noises, and it felt pretty good when driving.

I have the FM 146 Mitsubishi transmission in it. I used to have gear oil in it but the shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2 to 3 was starting to clunk. I replaced it with atf and I think it’s shifting much better now. I read online that it can go with either but those synchros seem happier now, so I’m thinking it was a good call.

 

[Uncle Gump]

All good... just looking out for ya