1989 2.9 issues

[fvrpowerstroke]

Im new to the forum im in need of a little advise. I have a 89 ranger 2.9 4x4 5 speed it idle a little rough i pulled codes 14 66 67 68 and 114 if i unplug the iac it dies and the same with the map and air temp sensor i need a general direction of what to do now

 

[Tedybear]

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/eec-iv.shtml

Code 14: Profile Ignition Pickup Circuit Failure (unless it's a diesel)
Code 66: Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Below Minimum Voltage (Except 1.9L MFI & 2.3L Turbo) -->You probably triggered it by unplugging the device.

Code 67: Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Open; A/C On (Manual)
Manual Lever Position Sensor Out Of Range/A/C On
Clutch Switch Circuit Failure

67 looks directly related to your A/C system. Probably wouldn't hurt to run some basics...(unless my guide is totally off base)

Code 114: Intake Air Temperature/Air Charge Temperature Higher Or Lower Than Expected. Again---might have been triggered with you unplugged the connector.

Rough idle can be caused by a whole host of issues. I've always recommended the basics first. Condition of the air filter, plugs, wires,....last time it got a tune up. Hook up a vacuum gauge and see how the general condition of the engine is....etc...

Going all out to the computer first can cause headaches... The only code that kicks up alarm bells for me? Would be the PIP one (code 14) That one has me wondering...... Normally if the PIP fails? The engine is dead. (that's the internal pickup that tells the ignition when it's ready to 'fire')

Good luck with it!

S-

 

[fvrpowerstroke]

Thanks for the reply it has new plugs wires cap and button and air filter I just bought it and the previous owner deleted the egt for some reason it is getting around 17 mpg I don't know if that is good or bad

 

[Tedybear]

Thanks for the reply it has new plugs wires cap and button and air filter I just bought it and the previous owner deleted the egt for some reason it is getting around 17 mpg I don't know if that is good or bad

17mpg isn't to bad. Our BII gets (when it's actually on the road--currently it's in the barn pending repairs). About 19ish or so. Depends on how hard my foot nails the gas.

I wasn't aware that an 89' ranger had an EGR? (our BII doesn't have it at all?)

I'd Suggest unhooking the battery for a while to clear out the codes...and then drive it for a while to see what new codes show up. Each time you unplug something computer related? The computer trips a code.

The PIP one is still bugging me.

So the base issue is that the engine just idles rough? (Makes me wonder what would happen if you ran some injector cleaner through it...)

S-

 

[fvrpowerstroke]

i have cleared and rerun it but havent checked for codes again yet. i just didnt see an egr so i assumed it was deleted i ran a complete fuel system through it as well as doin a seafom treatment. it seemed to run some better after it gets warm it is kind of like a dead miss but it is worse when it is started first thing in the morning.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you clean the throttle body good around the butterfly and pull/clean the idle air control area also. Put in a new PCV and change all the vacuum lines. Disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour every time you clean change a sensor, or if you disconnect any sensor while the engine is running the computer goes into limp mode and needs to be reset.

 

[fvrpowerstroke]

ive cleaned both the tb and iac if i pull the vac line off the map it does affect the way it runs this shows that it is good right? same for unplugging the other sensors if they make it worse unplugged then they are good im assuming and thanks for the help thus far

 

[freedom5]

I had a similar problem with my 2.9 and found the engine coolant sensor (the one with two wires) was bad. This sensor works with the idle air control. Does the engine high idle work when you first start it in the mornings?

 

[fvrpowerstroke]

It idles speradic when u first start it up the down and when it levels off sounds like it has a cam in it when it warms up the miss is less pronounced and very slight

 

[Psychopete]

114? '89 has 2 digit codes - code 66 ?? - are you sure you have a MAS? if you're not sure, take a picture of your air box and post it here

 

[freedom5]

The cable from the accelerator does not control the idle speed. It is a positive stop. If you have the adjustment turned in too far it conflicts with the Idle Air Control and the engine will surge when first started and usually again after it sits for awhile. The proceedure to set the positive idle stop is to back it off to the point where the engine will die when you disconnect the idle air control. Then turn it in about 1/4 turn. After this is complete, stop the engine and disconnect the negative battery cable for at least 30 minutes to reset the computer. It may take a few miles before the computer gets the codes reset. Hope this hels.

 

[adsm08]

I would ignore the PIP code. The rough idle can set that code by itself with nothing actually being wrong with a sensor.

Same way that a #4 misfire on a chevy 2.2 will set CMP codes.

 

[a31ford]

The Idle air screw at the throttle, is NOT to be tampered with, the IAC (on the other side of the intake, looks like a steel pill bottle on it's side) does the idle, the screw is ONLY if the IAC plugs up, power the engine on, and disconnect the IAC once the engine is warm, then set the idle to about 600 RPM this should be close enough that once you clear the codes from unpluging the IAC, (you can also plug it back in now) the engine and IAC should be able to modulate the idle correctly when in self-test, or a KOER test (right after the "goose" test has been completed it will start the idle control test).

20 engine cycles from cool, fully warm, will "set" the starting cold engine idle mix, with reference to the air and coolant sensors.

Greg

 

[Reds 88]

My ranger has done the same thing in the past. I know this can be a pain in the neck. I changed just about everything on mine. IAC,TPS,temp sensor you name it I changed it out for a new one. The thing that worked on my truck was pulling each fuel injector one at a time with the truck running.Each time I pulled an injector connection off the miss got worse until I got to the last one (#6) the sound of the truck never changed. I pulled the fuel rail,removed the injector and I could see the problem immediately. I cleaned the injector and reinstalled everything and it runs like a top! This has happened twice to my truck. #6 injector stopped up both times. Don't know why it's been the same injector both times,kinda weird. You could try this and see helps. The best thing is, this won't cost you a dime. Hope you get 'er straightened out.

 

[fvrpowerstroke]

Thanks ill try it when I get home today it is worse when it's cold I can start it it will idle to about 1400 then die I have to give it gas when it starts to keep it running then it will stay running just idleing rough