1988 won't start. feel like we've checked everything.

[Blackdog455]

I have a guy interested in my ranger but only with it running. He isn't in any hurry though but still I want it gone. So the engine feels like it wants to crank over but just doesn't start. Checked both fuel pumps and they come on, we have spark and over more than once tried to put everything in place to time it. When we crank it you can smell some gas as well.we just replaced the fuel pump cut off switch as well. We are thinking it is the timing in which case how do you correctly time a 2.3? Just to make sure I am doing it correctly. If it's not that than what else could it be?

 

[Mikel89us]

First thing to check is the cam timing. Set the crank to tdc using the front cover and timing mark on the crank pulley. Next remover said timing cover. If you have the timing mark still on the back cover, check to see the casting mark on the cam pulley is lined up correctly. Without mark, run a string from the center of the cam pulley bolt to the aux shaft( distributor drive) bolt center. The cam timing mark should be in line with the string. If the cam mark is on the top side, spin the crank one rotation to get it where it needs to be. Ensure the crank is back at tdc with the timing marks. Also make sure the belt is in good shape and tight. If it has jumped time a loose belt will do it again.

If that all checks out good, pull the distributor cap off and make sure the rotor is pointing at cyl #1 on the cap (drivers side rear). If it looks good move on, if not you can take the distributor hold down off, pull the dist up, and rotate it as necessary. Pay attention to how far it rotates when you pull it up. When its right, move on

To set base timing, there is a plug close to the dist plug that has 2 wires and a little gray or back plug, this will need to be removed. When trying to start it you can leave the dist loose enough to turn it and move it around little bits at a time to try to get it close enough to run. If it starts, set base timing, stock is 8* advanced, recommended by anyone who knows anything about these motors ( myself included) is to bump up base timing to about 20* advanced. This helps idle, torque and power slightly. Once set don't forget to tighten the dist clamp back down.

 

[Blackdog455]

I thought the number one cylinder was the one farthest from the driver. It is a 2.3 engine. Last time I timed it i did all of that (the string part) and it lined up nicely but still started to crank but didn't want to turn over and start. That was before I put the fuel pump cut off switch in; so maybe it's time for me to time it again.

 

[Mikel89us]

If you have a marked cap, #1 will be the one closest to the driver as long as the dist is in right, if its 180* out, it would be the farthest from the driver.

 

[Mark_88]

Well, first of all...if you line the crank up with the mark on the TDC indicator you could be out 180 degrees...so I always recommend pulling the #1 plug and put your thumb over it while cranking...when you feel pressure on your thumb that means you are on the compression stroke...then you can line it up with the mark on the crank or simply look into the plug hole and watch till the piston hits the top (before it starts to go down again).

Once that's done, then pull the distributor cap and the rotor should be pointing rougly towards where the #1 plug wire was connected on the cap...some are marked, but some are not...on the distributor, the #1 plug should be the one closest to the driver side fender...but since the distributor can be rotated it could be anywhere within that 180* area...

The distributor cap, fortunately, should only go on one way and sit flat...screws should be able to go in without excessive force...pretty simple and sorry to oversimplify, but I've been amazed a few times with what I've found some DIY ers try to do with these parts...lol

Then you can put the belt on the crank (I never actually remove it...just slack it enough that the crank can turn) auxiliary shaft, and then align the cam timing with the marks on the plastic attachement...if present...if not...roughly the 5 o'clock position...

 

[Blackdog455]

The piston closest to the drivers side fender eh? Maybe Ive been reading the manual wrong. Ive been pointing the distributor to the piston farthest from the driver. The one in the front.

 

[Mark_88]

OK...clarification...there are plugs on the passenger side...the one at the front of the engine towards the fan is #1 plug...the wire for that plug goes to the cup on the distributor nearest the driver side fender...and it usually is marked with a 1 indicating that is the first plug...the firing order is 1-3-4-2 and it goes clockwise from #1 plug

I know that I have done this so many times I do it without naming things so explaining it to someone else always needs clarification...hope that helps a bit

Oh, and removing plug #1 as I mentioned before and putting your thumb over is probably the best way to do the TDC before installing the belt (if you're doing timing belt)...you can also do it with the distributor cap off and watch for the rotor to point to the driver side fender, but that isn't always TDC...I like to actually feel the pressure and see the piston in the proper position rather than guessing because 10* out can mean starting or just cranking...and it's more important on a carbureted vehicle because the gas always flows and I've blown off a few mufflers by setting the timing wrong...

 

[Blackdog455]

yeah that helped, thanks. So I have been doing it right. Should probably check to see if my wires in their correct spots.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

are the spark plugs getting wet if so does it burn with a lighter?

 

[RonD]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4cylinders.html

picture is worth 1,000 words

About half way down the page

And as a by the way......this is a 4 stroke engine, like most car/truck engines.
This means the piston goes up twice and down twice to complete 1 cycle, 4 strokes.
So each cylinder, including #1, has TWO TDC's, the compression TDC and the exhaust TDC
Distributor should be on #1 plug wire when #1 piston is at Compression TDC.

 

[Mikel89us]

I feel like you guys have over complicated this
..... My walk through was to the point and spot on. Cam position is the best indicator of cyl #1 compression tdc. It is the cam after all that actually determines which tdc is compression.

 

[Mark_88]

Well, it appears as if everything is there (gas, spark) so if it doesn't fire...and without knowing what has been done, someone could have set the timing wrong at some point...

Nothing wrong with your post...except I've done this myself and set the crank to the mark only to find that it was 180* out...I was hoping to fill in some gaps in that information...

 

[Blackdog455]

Alright. Yeah, a lot of information posted here. I guess I will start with the timing again and double check it.

 

[Silvertooth]

are the spark plugs getting wet if so does it burn with a lighter?

.............Got to agree with this also.
When did the no start begin ?
Has it been sitting a long time?
What is the compression?


and..............Merry Christmas.