1988 Ranger v-8 5.0L

[jfl1960]

Fabricated Motor Mount Brackets (based on Trans Dapt or Advance Adapters design)

Hey guys, I am in the middle of my 88 ranger conversion, been experimenting with motor mounts and so far not real happy, tried the foxbody mounts and found they sat my motor too high for my liking, toyed with the stock v6 mount and a 1/4" plate for a while just because it was simple but again motor sits too high and not to my liking for durability, now I am trying to fab a set of mounting plates similar to the trans dapt or advance adapters plates.
Here is where I could use some help, all I really need is someone to check their plates for thickness, The main plate that bolts to the cross-member looks like 1/2" to me and the smaller one that the mounts bolt to looks thicker almost like 3/4", I would really appreciate this info, thanks in advance.
I will include some pics of my mock up in next post.

 

[jfl1960]

These are rough and will be sized properly once I get into making them out of steel, any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[jfl1960]

I used the jig because I got tired of installing the motor and pulling it out, all I have to do now is bolt the factory 302 engine mounts to my jig and easily lift out by hand when testing and measuring.

 

[originalnitro]

My trans dapts both are 1/2" ( frame plate and top plate with bolt slots )

 

[jfl1960]

Thanks, that works great because I used 1/2 " plywood for my mock up plates. Any other dimensions you could provide would be appreciated such as slot length and overall bracket length and width, I used a 4"x4" for the drivers side and a 4"x5" plate for the passenger side for my mock up, think I am pretty close.

Any suggestions regarding installation of these brackets, looks like a tight fit for the motor mount bolt to adapter plate on the driver's side, might be some interference on the cross-member. When I complete the plate in steel I will reverse the mounting hardware so the heads are on top and nuts and washers are underneath, just easier to do adjustments with nuts on top for now.

 

[originalnitro]

The slot in mount is 1 1/4" . On my 92 to get the nut on the drivers side mount i have raise the motor up a little to start the nut. Im not sure on the other measurements but yours looks close. If you want i can get them when i change the oil monday.

 

[jfl1960]

The slot in mount is 1 1/4" . On my 92 to get the nut on the drivers side mount i have raise the motor up a little to start the nut. Im not sure on the other measurements but yours looks close. If you want i can get them when i change the oil monday.

Sure that would be great. Any dimensions you can get me would be a great help, thanks again.

 

[RangerSVT]

I used the factory 4.0L rubber mounts with the factory explorer steel plates, which are almost 3/16 thick...but if 1/4 thick does not seem durable enough for you, why not go with 5/16 or even 1/2 thick??
SVT

 

[jfl1960]

I used the factory 4.0L rubber mounts with the factory explorer steel plates, which are almost 3/16 thick...but if 1/4 thick does not seem furable enough for you, why not go with 5/16 or even 1/2 thick??
SVT

Thanks for the tip there RangerSVT, the reason I went with this setup is because I had the 5.0L mounts from the F250 that the motor came from and lots of plate in my garage to use so nothing had to be purchase,only expense is my time and some consumables (grinding wheels, welding wire etc...). And it's just another part I can say I built myself.

I have seen the explorer plates used somewhere in my reading on this subject but discarded it because I would have to buy mounts and plates and there were no real details given on the application or final motor location when used. I suspect they are the same height and location as my original V6 mounts with the 1/4" motor plate which mounted the motor too high in the engine bay, plus the mounts are kinda weak for my intentions (150 shot NOS) originally when I first put this motor in the Ranger I used a 1993 5.0L F250 converted to carburetor and the foxbody convertible mounts and low profile dual snorkel air breather to clear hood, but now I am using the same 5.0L and retaining the original fuel injection system. Most of the posts I have read have guys either use a carburetor on the truck motor or are using a mustang 5.0L EFI, the mustang EFI is shorter than the F250 so I am trying to get the motor as low as possible in engine bay for hood clearance (also build a tilt front end and wanted to make sure I have as much room as possible in front of motor and at hood) and for lowering unsprung weight (lower center of gravity) .

So far these Trans Dapt clone plates appear to give the most control regarding moving the motor back and low in frame and they are SOLID.

With that being said I would love to see pics of your mount assembly for future reference. Once I finish this project I am going to collect all the different info I have regarding mounting application options and post it in a PDF format, would be nice to have it all in one file for future reference.

 

[RangerSVT]

I understand now...With performance in mind you might want to consider running the mustang intake as it flows more air than the truck intakes, with the explorer intake flowing as much as the 93 cobra intake, and it will clear your hood better. I am running a 3 inch body lift, so my hood clearance issues are a little different than yours. I am currently doing a writeup for the tech library as to my knowledge I am the first to document an explorer motor swap into a 95-97 ranger. It has been done on 98+, and I'm sure someone has done it on 95-97 as well, but have not documented it. I'm not home right now but when I get back I'll post up pics of my mount setup...
SVT

 

[jfl1960]

I understand now...With performance in mind you might want to consider running the mustang intake as it flows more air than the truck intakes, with the explorer intake flowing as much as the 93 cobra intake, and it will clear your hood better. I am running a 3 inch body lift, so my hood clearance issues are a little different than yours. I am currently doing a writeup for the tech library as to my knowledge I am the first to document an explorer motor swap into a 95-97 ranger. It has been done on 98+, and I'm sure someone has done it on 95-97 as well, but have not documented it. I'm not home right now but when I get back I'll post up pics of my mount setup...
SVT

Yes the 3" lift would definitely give more hood clearance, I have a 3/4 suspension drop on my truck, didn't effect body height or engine bay size as it is all suspension mods, would be cool to have side by side pics of a 3" lifted Ranger and a 3" lowered ranger, I will post one once I have the motor in, fenders and hood on and box on.

I know the Mustang and Explorer intakes flow better just right now I am maxed out on car parts and the Visa is off limits, I want to get this motor into the truck and get some panels and bodywork done over the winter, also motor is going to get a complete rebuild next season, it has been run hard and never rebuild to my knowledge, smokes and taps like a Chicago nightclub in the 40's, already have new connecting rods, rings, .30 over pistons, timing chain plus all gaskets and bearings for internals before the crunch came down on my project spending, will have to cool it for now but come spring I am sure Santa will have left me some more goodies to top off my motor (mustang intake, new cam, roller lifters, new injectors, etc... ). Might have to suck it up and sell something to get my NOS but it will come.

For now I am using what I have to mount the motor and get the hood on. Will not hurt having the motor low in my final assembly. I appreciate your suggestions on the intakes and will be addressing this at a later date but for now we are kinda getting off topic in this thread, partly my fault sorry guys.

 

[RangerSVT]

Sounds good, remember to take plenty of pics.....We like pics!!
SVT

 

[jfl1960]

Will do. By the way just saw a series of Trucks shows doing the Explorer 4.8L (I think not exactly sure the liter size of the Explorer) to a late 1990's or early 2000 Mazda, would be the pretty much the same as your Ranger install I think, it was BadAss when done.

 

[RangerSVT]

Thats the explorer 5.0L swap into 98+ rangers, which is basically a 100% bolt in swap, but for 95-97 rangers, I don't recall any doing this swap. Myself being the first to successfully attempt and docuement this swap, I'm doing a complete writeup so it can be put into the tech library for others to use or get ideas. I believe in helping others out in any way I can, and that includes sharing the wealth of knowledge I have and I learn. If I can make someone else's install or swap go easier from my blood and sweat, I'm happy for them to use the info
SVT

 

[originalnitro]

Sure that would be great. Any dimensions you can get me would be a great help, thanks again.

Drivers side bottom plate 4 1/4" x 4 1/2" and the top is 1 1/2" x 4 1/4" the passenger side 4 1/4" x 6" its top 2 1/2" x 4 1/4"