1988 Ranger v-8 5.0L

[jfl1960]

Thats the explorer 5.0L swap into 98+ rangers, which is basically a 100% bolt in swap, but for 95-97 rangers, I don't recall any doing this swap. Myself being the first to successfully attempt and docuement this swap, I'm doing a complete writeup so it can be put into the tech library for others to use or get ideas. I believe in helping others out in any way I can, and that includes sharing the wealth of knowledge I have and I learn. If I can make someone else's install or swap go easier from my blood and sweat, I'm happy for them to use the info
SVT

That's exactly they way I feel and I see what you mean about doing an earlier model than the one on Trucks, share the knowledge, I know I will be back again for the wiring, but for now off to the mounts.

 

[jfl1960]

Drivers side bottom plate 4 1/4" x 4 1/2" and the top is 1 1/2" x 4 1/4" the passenger side 4 1/4" x 6" its top 2 1/2" x 4 1/4"

I really appreciate the info, thank you very much, this will make finishing these plates a breeze.

 

[originalnitro]

Mustang intake. [] Another intake option is use a truck lower with a mustang upper.

 

[jfl1960]

Mustang intake. [] Another intake option is use a truck lower with a mustang upper.

Thanks nitro, I will keep that in mind.

 

[jfl1960]

Steel fab of motor mount adapter plates

OK guys I have started to make these out of steel, started with a piece of 1/2 x 6" flatbar and cut my pieces to size, then layout the slots and drilled then smoothed the slots, cut relief where needed and assembled plates and welded, I have the passenger side done and am in process of the drivers side, here are some pics from the passenger side:

I will take some more pics of the slotting process while I make the drivers side plates, will publish all dimensions once I am done and happy with fit and function. Stay tuned.

 

[jfl1960]

Slotting Drivers side adapter plate

Here are a few shots of the slotting process I used for making my adapter plates.:

start with 1/4" drill and drill holes as marked

then open those holes to 3/8"

now open those to 7/16"

next I used a file, hacksaw and a drill with a barb to connect the holes and smooth out the slots, you could cut them with a torch (don't have one myself) and file them smooth, would be quicker but don't think you'll get the accuracy needed. My bench press drill broke last week had to drill these by hand :-(.

Will be finished these soon stay tuned.

 

[v-8power]

Those slots look like you used a mill to do them. Nice work.

 

[jfl1960]

Thanks only too about 5 mins per slot, after drilling them, if my bench press drill was working it would have been a snap.

 

[originalnitro]

Looks like the ones on my truck. lol. Looking good

 

[jfl1960]

First fitting

Finished my first attempt at these adapter plates and I am very please with result, location of engine is approx 1 1/2" lower than I had it using the fox body mounts and back approx another 1/2", will have to do some firewall and airbox mods to keep the motor where it is but the extra work will be minor and well worth the effort IMO. here are some shots of the mock up using an old block and AOD trans, I got lucky and had a cross member from a 1988 Ranger that came with 2.3L motor and auto trans, with some slight mods this cross member should be fine mounted in it's factory mounts (no adjustment need to frame mounts at all).

mock up front view

Drivers side mount and adapter:
Top view

Bottom view

Passenger side mount and adapter:
Top view

Bottom view

AOD Transmission and 1988 Ranger automatic cross member combo, location is good but sitting too high, will address that next:

Welds are a little rough, I was using a 110 Lincoln and flux core might not have been hot enough for the 1/2" plates, will grind them down and re-weld using one of the 220 mig units at work when I have the motor out later on, but these adapter plates will definitely work fine, I have a full 1" adjustment forward on passenger side and approx 3/4" forward and backward adjustment on drivers side (used 1 1/2" slots), pretty much in center of slots, motor hasn't been leveled yet or set for rear angle, looks high to drivers side and if you look at adapter plate to motor mount bolts I see on drivers side I am topped out and passenger side bottomed out on adjustment so I have lots of adjustment to use when I set the motor level. I think these will do nicely. will get dimension from finished plates soon and post along with other mounting options I have considered, thanks to originalnitro for plate dimensions, any suggestions or comments are appreciated.

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

Have you put the heads on and see where the exhaust ports are gonna end up in relation to the frame?

 

[jfl1960]

Will have to pop the heads on this week and measure, hopefully it won't be a problem. Another spot I am concerned about is power steering pump to the power steering module itself, that might be close.

just found this kit for Trans Dapt motor mount adapters and they recommend using Hedman Headers, these look a lot like the old ones I used before so I don't think I will have a problem:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/9716K/10002/-1

Won't be using that oil relocation like the one they show, got a 90 degree one and it works great.

 

[originalnitro]

Finished my first attempt at these adapter plates and I am very please with result, location of engine is approx 1 1/2" lower than I had it using the fox body mounts and back approx another 1/2", will have to do some firewall and airbox mods to keep the motor where it is ] This might help you with firewall clearence. When i replaced the cab bushings the holes in the cab are rather large was able to move the cab back and got another 3/8" of clearence.

 

[jfl1960]

Finished my first attempt at these adapter plates and I am very please with result, location of engine is approx 1 1/2" lower than I had it using the fox body mounts and back approx another 1/2", will have to do some firewall and airbox mods to keep the motor where it is ] This might help you with firewall clearence. When i replaced the cab bushings the holes in the cab are rather large was able to move the cab back and got another 3/8" of clearence.

Interesting, never thought of that, thanks for the suggestion, I need all the clearance I can get especially on the drivers side, man it is close. Check out my cardomain site for tilt front end and motor mock up.