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1988 PreRanger


Found the issue, waiting to resolve...




Oh, you wanna know what it is?





Clutch is slipping
 
Well if the clutch isnt releasing the motor overheats
 
They Were white tipped but normal looking electrodes
 
Sorry don't mean to fill you thread with questions, you have another thread I can ask?? Have you checked your timing? Retarted timing can make headers glow, lack of power, bad idle....
 
i haven't been able to check it, lack of timing light...
 
I'm so close I can taste it... but no success...

I put a new Clutch, throwout bearing, pressure plate and flywheel in my truck and then when I checked timing it was at 20*. I took it down to 10 (or close to it) and now its even worse!!!
 
Did you ever verify TDC on your balancer? Maybe you spun the balancer and the timing isn't correct? That happended on my Mustang. When you checked you timing, did you remove your spout connector? This is very important, because if you didn't, you just retarded your timing even more.
 
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We highlighted the mark on the balancer for TDC and also at 10*. Then we pulled the black "pill" as everyone calls it that is basically a shorting bar on the 2 wire connector that is over the passenger side valve cover, about 6" from firewall. when we checked it at first it was like 14, then when the truck idled it moved to 20. we set it to 10 and put the pill back in and checked it and it looks like it held.

I appreciate your help Kyle...

My thoughts from here...

A) Truck still has a computer for the automatic transmission, but the computer is not getting signal from the manual transmission because the only plug that is actually plugged into the tranny is the reverse lights.

B) Truck has sat for a long time, I have replaced fuel filter but I heard there is a filter inside the fuel pump under the drivers seat on the frame. That or the in tank fuel pump may be bad and the frame pump is the only one running.
 
Last edited:
We highlighted the mark on the balancer for TDC and also at 10*. Then we pulled the black "pill" as everyone calls it that is basically a shorting bar on the 2 wire connector that is over the passenger side valve cover, about 6" from firewall. when we checked it at first it was like 14, then when the truck idled it moved to 20. we set it to 10 and put the pill back in and checked it and it looks like it held.

I appreciate your help Kyle...

My thoughts from here...

A) Truck still has a computer for the automatic transmission, but the computer is not getting signal from the manual transmission because the only plug that is actually plugged into the tranny is the reverse lights.

B) Truck has sat for a long time, I have replaced fuel filter but I heard there is a filter inside the fuel pump under the drivers seat on the frame. That or the in tank fuel pump may be bad and the frame pump is the only one running.



Was the timing moving as the RPMs changed with the spout/pill out?
 
Yeah, startup was at 14 and idle was 20
 
Well that is a problem. What the pill/spout connector does when it is removed is dissconnect the ECU timing advance so you can set the base timing. Once the spout is remove the timing should not change as the rpms change. Get your light back on it and look for another spout near the distributor, pull it and rev it up, if the timing doesn't change you have the right one, now you can set your 10 degree base.
 
Bingo! O2 was half assed back together after the wires were cut and only the black wire was connected. Set base timing for 18. A little rich but it'll slam u in the seat...

YAY THAT ENDS MY WOES!
 
FS 1500. Looking at either a 2000 ranger 4 door stepside or a 2003 ranger 4 door styleside
 

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