1988 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab - 7.5 Rear Axle Swap To Ford 8.8

[DIYer314]

I need help finding the right axle that would be a suitable swap for this vehicle. Where would you recommend getting an 8.8 and from what vehicle? I'm new to suspension modifications.

 

[scotts90ranger]

With what goal in mind? The 28 spline 8.8 found in Rangers isn't much stronger than the 7.5 (they even have the same axle shafts).

The easiest axle to swap in is from another Ranger, starting in '90 the rear diff flange changed so you would need the U joint flange from the driveshaft of a newer Ranger to go with it. Anything with a 4.0L will have a 28 spline 8.8 axle, any other engine will have a 7.5 like you have. Starting in '93 they got to be a little wider but not enough to matter too much. If you really want an upgrade to take more power or whatever the Explorer 8.8 is 31 spline and beefier and the right width but you have to weld on new spring perches and shock mounts

 

[DIYer314]

I would like to be able to put 35 to 36 inch tires in the back and a Ford 302 in the truck as well. I also have three stuck lug nuts on the wheel studs and from all the things I've tried the back left rim may have to come off with the axle.
With the goal of the 31 spline gearing, stronger axle for engine swap, and I figured the axle would have to change due to tire size I would like to run.

 

[DIYer314]

I was also looking at the Ford 9 inch. Would that be easier to swap and rebuild? If possible I would like to find something that doesn't need different shock mounts or spring perches.

 

[scotts90ranger]

You aren't going to find an axle that will bolt up and be stronger other than the Ranger 8.8 which will get you able to use better gears. An explorer 8.8 is going to be way easier to find (there's thousands of '91-01 Explorers out there still) than a 9" that is of the right width and be easier to swap in...

For spring perches there's an F150 lowering kit that has spring perches to flop them to the other side of the axle tube that works and apparently if you use two of one side Explorer U bolt plates you can get by with those for shock mounts... But this would be a reasonable chance to get an entry grade welder (even flux core rated for 140ish amps would be fine) and do a lot of practicing then do the welding yourself... A Titanium MIG140 or MIG170 from Harbor Freight would do real nice...

 

[DIYer314]

oh ok. Thank-you for the advice.
I found this https://www.carid.com/ford-oe/rear-...reinforcement-mpn-f57z5798ae.html?view=655112 seems that this could be used for both strut mounts - passenger and driver
F57Z-5798-AE - Shock mount
For the spring perches it was mentioned to use The Ford Explorer ones, but on the other hand welding new perches would enable me to use the ranger ones right?

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'm talking about THESE they just flip the leaf spring mounting position to the other side of the axle, Explorers are spring under and Rangers are spring over... the spring spacing is the same between a Ranger and Explorer.

The U bolt plates are easiest to get from the junkyard as you're getting an axle... you need two of one side because on the Explorers I think they're both on the back where on a Ranger the drivers side is in the back and the passenger side is in the front...

 

[DIYer314]

When I'm looking for an 8.8 what would you suggest looking at wear wise and identifying the axle. I can choose any 1991 - 2001 Ford Explorer? Does it matter the model/trim?
I can't identify Limited Slip unless I take off the Diff cover, but I want to make sure I get the 31 spline axle shafts.
Do they all come with 31 spline? Was there a sub model or trim where it was more common?

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Read this https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-explorer-8-8-inch-rear-axle-swap/

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

spring pads or 8.8 swap kits can be bought from quite a few offroad stores, ruff stuff spec, ballistic fab, 4 wheel parts. You get weld on shock mounts and put them in the same location as your old mounts on your old axle. A 96-01 explorer will have disk brakes and quite a few came with Limited slip diffs. If the door jam sticker is still on the explorer you can look at the axle code and it will tell you or theres usually an axle tag on the diff cover (if it was put back on that tells you also)

But like Scott said, you will have to get the drive line flange off the explorer also, 8.8s are bigger.

 

[JoshT]

On the driveshaft flange thing. You might new an entire later model driveshaft, not just the flange. I don't recall the year, but some where in there the size of the u-joint changed. There aren't any conversion joints to go from the old joint size to the new one that I could find. In around 89 the 7.5 and 8.8 started using the same flange.

Fortunately there were only like 6 driveshafts used in the late 80s-97, so it's pretty easy to match up. IE: If yours is an extended cab auto, you'll just need one from a later extended cab Auto.

 

[4x4prepper]

> I also have three stuck lug nuts on the wheel studs

Get a dremel and with the diamond discs cut the head off the lug nut right before the stud, so you can see the stud, then cut parallel with the lug into the lug nut until you almost reach the threads, in 4-5 places. Once enough tension has been removed from the lug nut, you will see it loosen on the threads. Then you can spin it off with an air hammer.

 

[DIYer314]

Just went to the junkyard to and found a 97 Ford Explorer with a D4 axle code - 3.73 LS 8.8,
My plan is to swap the 7.5 inch axle with this axle. I'll get all bolts and brackets just in case. I should be able to buy new brackets and bolts if need be. For the driveshaft I think I should get a 1998 and newer extended cab Ranger driver shaft this should bolt directly in.

Does it matter that any of the vehicles I get these parts from are 4x4 or not? There just happens to be a transfer case, but I'm just there to get the axle and drive shaft so these parts shouldn't differ?

Also I'm unsure where to detach the brake line at on these explorers. Where would you detach at?

 

[DIYer314]

> I also have three stuck lug nuts on the wheel studs

Get a dremel and with the diamond discs cut the head off the lug nut right before the stud, so you can see the stud, then cut parallel with the lug into the lug nut until you almost reach the threads, in 4-5 places. Once enough tension has been removed from the lug nut, you will see it loosen on the threads. Then you can spin it off with an air hammer.

I may have to the axle with the rim. I got a lug nut removal tool stuck on a lug.

 

[scotts90ranger]

On a '97 the brake line from the frame to the axle is on the drivers side, I'd just cut it with wire cutters, easier... grab a second passenger side soft line from another explorer while you are there (or just grab a new one...) then when you swap the axle in get a flare kit and two extra brake line nut things and cut the stock Explorer line in the middle and use the stock Ranger soft line...

I'm not sure what you mean by grabbling all brackets, there's not much other than U bolt plates

The driveshaft will need to be from whatever you have be it 4x4 or 4x2...