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1988 Ford Ranger 2.9L V6


Acepilot1023

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2010
Messages
54
City
East Coast USA
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
Does anyone have an exploded view of it, or can you tell me what the part is right behind the water pump? I thought it was one big piece, but the seal between the block and the other piece is leaking coolant.
 
The water pump bolts to the timing cover.
 
Thanks. Have you ever heard of a timing cover having coolant running through it before though?
 
Thanks. Have you ever heard of a timing cover having coolant running through it before though?

Yes. Have you heard of the Ford Windsor engines? They have been built that way since 1965.:beer:
 
Alright sweet. That was making me worried that it was more than just the gasket.

And, no, I have never heard of that. I don't deal with older engines much, and I have never heard about coolant running through, only oil to cool the timing chain.
 
Does anyone have an exploded view of it, or can you tell me what the part is right behind the water pump? I thought it was one big piece, but the seal between the block and the other piece is leaking coolant.
Hello. did you ever get the job done? I have to do the same thing. I just took off the water pump and broke two bolts off that go to the timing cover. Did you have any problems with the removal of the timing chain cover? The Haynes manuel say's you have drop the oil pan but some say you don't. Did you. If you can I would appreciate some feedback on how things went for you. Thank you.
 
im going thru the same thing. i found foamy oil in my dipstick and valve covers but the leak is from the timing chain. time to pull the motor, put it on a stand, and replace every gasket and seal in it. im also replacing the heads with steel ones. i had a set lying around.but yeah, i hadnt ever heard of that either
 
it's a shame this forum is dead.

here's an update. finally got the motor out of the truck and apart. head gaskets were fine. intake was full of moisture. and the foamy oil that was in the valve covers was on the butterfly in the throttle body. tomorrow is cleanup duty to see if i can find the problem. i'd really like some direction on this, i'm leaving next sunday for a cross country drive in my b2.
 
The Haynes manuel say's you have drop the oil pan but some say you don't. Did you. If you can I would appreciate some feedback on how things went for you. Thank you.

There's really not much room at all to just drop the oil pan. I've heard of it being done too, but seems like it would be awfully tricky with out bending up the pan lip. There are two steel dowels that align the timing cover; on top of that, look at the 2 front corners of the oil pan - they have nuts and not bolts. Those are studs that go through the oil pan instead of just using bolts that bolt into the timing cover. A lot of things on this engine are a real pain in the butt.
 
There's really not much room at all to just drop the oil pan. I've heard of it being done too, but seems like it would be awfully tricky with out bending up the pan lip. There are two steel dowels that align the timing cover; on top of that, look at the 2 front corners of the oil pan - they have nuts and not bolts. Those are studs that go through the oil pan instead of just using bolts that bolt into the timing cover. A lot of things on this engine are a real pain in the butt.
Thanks for the feedback. I see what you are talking about. Right now I am trying to get the damper off. I didn't know I had to do that. I thought the timing cover was a half circle on the bottom but it seems that would be to easy. The bolts are on real good and I don't want to break any. Do you know of a good way to hold the crank so I can loosen the bolts? The strap wrench is not doing the job.Also will I have any trouble getting it back on? I appreciate the info. Thanks.
 
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im going thru the same thing. i found foamy oil in my dipstick and valve covers but the leak is from the timing chain. time to pull the motor, put it on a stand, and replace every gasket and seal in it. im also replacing the heads with steel ones. i had a set lying around.but yeah, i hadnt ever heard of that either
That's starting to sound like what to do because working in my driveway isn't any fun and I have an '85 F150 sitting in the yard that might need less work to get on the road. We'll see.
 
Are you auto or manual?

This was a problem I ran into changing the engine dampener on a front wheel drive car with an automatic transmission. It's not an ideal way to do it, but I put a socket on a torque converter nut and snugged it up against the block, then loosened the crank bolt. Be careful doing this!!! Normally the engine has been on a stand.

The dampner doesn't pull off either, you're going to need a puller. What you do is leave the crank bolt in and loosen it about a 1/2". You push on the bolt with the puller and work it off the end of the crankshaft. Or can use a socket in the middle of the dampner for the puller to push against. If you take the bolt out and install the puller, it will never come out that way.
 
Thanks for the info. I have a manual trans. I got the damper bolt loose by putting a socket and breaker bar on it and hit it with a hand held sledge hammer and it loosened up. I had a steering wheel puller and got the damper off. Now I am trying to find the time to put it all back together. Pain in the butt. The whole job has probably taken 8 hours to disassemble everything. I decided to pull the valve covers while I was at it to stop the leaks. Now I have to paint everything up nice and pretty so it looks like I did something good. I didn't have to drop the oil pan. The timing cover gasket set came with the gasket for the front part of the oil pan. Thanks so much for your help'
 

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