1988 ford ranger 2.3 need help

[xlt88ranger]

Relay is good tested it right before you posted that

 

[Mark_88]

OK...sorry, I was busy with something...

I found this by RonD regarding no fuel injector pulse...it is a few posts down...but I didn't get the post number...

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160634&highlight=1988+no+injector+pulse

The TFI (thin film insulator or something or other) works off the distributor and you will need to check that out now...

This is the link to the diagnostic on the Tech Articles...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...agnostic.shtml

 

[tomw]

I *think* this is the desired link:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

Did you get the fuel pumps to run for 2 seconds when the key is first turned to ON?
If not, then check the real, actual ignition switch under the cover on the topside of the steering column. It may have started to come apart due to age.
tom

 

[xlt88ranger]

Converted it over to switch 2 weeks after I got the truck because the pumps wouldn't turn on back in February. The actual switch is perfectly fine. I'm going to buy a new wiring harness because almost every wire is bad in the truck due to a lousy mechanic that fix the truck when the original owner wrecked it.

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks for the update~!

I guess if you just replaced the harness under the hood it wouldn't be too expensive...but to replace them both (there are three I believe including the tail lights et al) can be. I looked at them a few years ago and couldn't believe they wanted $600 for one harness...maybe less now...let us know if you go that route how much they were and where you got it...

I wasn't sure if you got the truck running with the last bit of suggestions...it can only be one or two things at that point...

Oh, and I've still got the original harness from my first 2.0 engine that the previous owner had hacked...it was getting along just fine even though it had a few cracked connectors and loose wires...

A member on here sent me a wire harness for under the hood that he had spare a few years ago...still have that one and it contains the black/orange wire that was causing my power outages...really helped that time!

 

[xlt88ranger]

I took one more try at rewiring it and got old girl up and running again. Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[Mark_88]

Good to hear~!

Thanks for the update...hopefully it stays running for you now...

 

[xlt88ranger]

Ok so the ranger runs anyways but when I crank it out fits up immediately and idles at about 3000 rpms yes 3 grand and sputters. Any ideas? I'm lost at this point.

 

[Mark_88]

Sounds like something, like the IAC, is not grounded or connected properly...check for loose connectors that are not connected where they should be...the MAP is now a suspect also...that's the one on the firewall on the passenger side.

Could also be a vacuum line off somewhere but it shouldn't necessarily idle that high...but something simply isn't connected right...

Sorry you're having such a difficult time with this one...but I think you're almost there...

EDIT: Do you happen to have any pics of the engine bay? I keep forgetting what an 88 has as far as sensors and whatnot...like the TFI on the distributor is one part of the equation...that is the thing with wires running from it just below the distributor cap...and the EGR pipe goes into the throttle body but there is a sensor on there that you can, if present, disconnect...I forget...I will try to search google for images...

 

[xlt88ranger]

I've checked the wiring 4 times everything is right. Iac is good, map is good, every sensor and wire is good. Although there is a loose connector on the driver side that I have no idea what it goes to but I do know that it was connected before. As for pictures for some reason I can't post any

 

[xlt88ranger]

But that connector goes back to the taillights

 

[Mark_88]

Here is a post from RonD about high idle...if this doesn't show you anything then your PCM may be at fault...I seem to remember that you actually replaced the PCM thinking it was bad...

This was for an 89 2.3 but the point is to see what the IAC effect is...you said it tested good...and if that is the case then it could be the computer is setting the idle high or there is a huge vacuum leak...

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

First thing I would do is to track down the high idle cause.
Engine cold idle will be 900-1,000 rpm
Warm idle 700-750 rpm

With engine warmed up and idling, unplug the connector for the IAC valve, engine rpm should drop down to 500-600 rpm.
If idle doesn't drop that means computer is not setting the high idle, most likely cause is a vacuum leak.
The IAC valve is a "controlled vacuum leak" that's how the computer raises and lowers the idle for cold and warm engine idle, it opens and close the valve to let more or less air into the intake, if your idle doesn't change from cold to warm engine temp then IAC valve may be stuck, these can be cleaned.
Just as an FYI, on all fuel injected engines IAC valves are used, and when you first start these engines the computer will open the IAC valve all the way then close it to set cold or warm idle speed, so the engine should go to high idle then drop after starting, if that is not happening then cleaning the IAC valve should be the next step.

If IAC valve is working you can start by removing one vacuum line at a time from the intake and plugging that hole with your finger, if idle drops you found a leak, check that hose and the device at the end of that hose.
If all hoses check out as OK, then you will need to spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid around the intake gasket and see if spraying at a certain spot changes rpm, if so then there is a vacuum leak at that spot.
Vacuum leak can also cause a miss as it leans out the idle fuel mix.



If unplugging the IAC valve lowers the idle to 500-600 rpm then computer is setting the idle that high for some reason.
Could be computer is not being told that engine is warmed up, that's done by the ECT sensor, but you would usually get a CEL(check engine light) if that was the case.
Could be a MAF(air flow) or MAP(air pressure) sensor giving the computer the wrong air readings.

 

[xlt88ranger]

It was the vacuum line to the iac fixed it and it's idling between 750-900 now. As for the miss I had fouled all four spark plugs but I figured that would happen. She's running high and mighty for the moment anyways

 

[Mark_88]

excellent...always something simple...usually anyways!



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