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1988 BII Build


tie rod done except i need to final weld one side.
P5170001.jpg


made the brackets to sit on the tie rod
P5170004.jpg


i need to change out the spacers though, it's too damn wide
P5170005.jpg
 
the answer is in your question lol.......... WAR EAGLE

hey, if you hate on the Vols, we can't be friends anymore and I'll neg rep you for saying that war eagle cuss words :icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::D:thefinger:
 
hey, if you hate on the Vols, we can't be friends anymore and I'll neg rep you for saying that war eagle cuss words :icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::D:thefinger:

this is MY build thread, i'll war eagle as much as i want!!!!!

we can still be friends, it's not like yall are bama fans lol
 
this is MY build thread, i'll war eagle as much as i want!!!!!

we can still be friends, it's not like yall are bama fans lol

:icon_thumby::icon_rofl:

anyways, get back to work on the b2, it's not college football season yet... :bawling:

wanna build me a crossmember? :icon_rofl:
 
:icon_thumby::icon_rofl:

anyways, get back to work on the b2, it's not college football season yet... :bawling:

wanna build me a crossmember? :icon_rofl:

it'll be here for too long :icon_cheers:

i could, i think i still have about 3 feet of the 2x2 tube......shipping would be brutal on that though. i think it weighs 20-25 pounds if not more.
 
it'll be here for too long :icon_cheers:

i could, i think i still have about 3 feet of the 2x2 tube......shipping would be brutal on that though. i think it weighs 20-25 pounds if not more.

I think I have everything I need to build mine, just need to take some measurements and do it.. I need to get started on my axle swap.
 
i need to change out the spacers though, it's too damn wide
P5170005.jpg

You do need the spacers or you bind up the heim when you get to full droop. Might be fine on the street but when wheeling it will break the jam nut free since the heim won't be able to fully travel. Do you have any larger square or round tube you can slide over the tie rod to make it thicker in that spot. I would just sleeve the tie rod with some larger tube to make up for the difference. Is there any of the DOM left I sent you?
 
You do need the spacers or you bind up the heim when you get to full droop. Might be fine on the street but when wheeling it will break the jam nut free since the heim won't be able to fully travel. Do you have any larger square or round tube you can slide over the tie rod to make it thicker in that spot. I would just sleeve the tie rod with some larger tube to make up for the difference. Is there any of the DOM left I sent you?

i do have some, but not enough to sleeve it. i have a bunch of the 2x2 square wall though, that's 1.5" ID and 2" OD. the heim is 2" in diameter with the misalignments. i could just build a little platform type thing on top of the TR and then mount my brackets to that. or i could just take the DL all the way to the knuckle
 
That is the same steering setup I am running with no bind. As long as the heim is on top of the tierod there is no issue. The joint only moves one direction basically.
 
i do have some, but not enough to sleeve it. i have a bunch of the 2x2 square wall though, that's 1.5" ID and 2" OD. the heim is 2" in diameter with the misalignments. i could just build a little platform type thing on top of the TR and then mount my brackets to that. or i could just take the DL all the way to the knuckle

I would put the square over it will be fine. With radius arm setup the axle will pivot back and a turn the front of diff towards the ground at full droop. I would use the misalignment spacers then you have nothing to worry about. :icon_cheers:
 
I would put the square over it will be fine. With radius arm setup the axle will pivot back and a turn the front of diff towards the ground at full droop. I would use the misalignment spacers then you have nothing to worry about. :icon_cheers:

well, that's what i ended up doing. it's also easier using the misalignments cause i wont have to go buy a 3/4" drill bit. i already bought a 5/8" bit and it's already dull, wont even go through the 3/16" plate i have. i'm gonna have to take the knuckles and pitman arm to a machine shop and see if they can drill them out for me. it would take me hours to do it. i need a damn drill press.


anyhow, got out there early today to beat some of the heat. gonna go back out later and try and finish up.

here's what i made to sit on top of the TR....should work fine. i'm gonna plate the back side of it.
P5180008.jpg

fits right on top of the TR
P5180011.jpg

right in line with the lower TB mount
P5180013.jpg


TB and DL angles look pretty damn good to me:
parallel
P5180009.jpg

and pretty much the same angle from the front.
P5180012.jpg


gonna have to cut off the sway bar mounts, which is fine since i wasnt planning on running any.
P5180007.jpg


i just need to shorten the TB and TR a half inch each. that should leave me plenty of room for adjustment. then the cross member is gonna be cut up a good bit, then reinforced with some plate or angle iron.
 

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