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1987 2.9 won't start


Mv7fd

Active Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2013
Messages
39
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
I was driving my 87 ranger and it just shut off replaced the distributor, cap, rotor module on the distributor and coil still no spark coming from coil what could it be
 
On spark systems the ignition module and distributor cut the Ground to the coil to get it to spark.
So coil needs 12volts when key is on, check if coil "+" has 12volts when key is on.
And then check if it has 12volts when starter motor is on.
On TFI systems there can be TWO separate power pathways for the coil power.
RUN power
START power

START power is when starter motor is engaged and that 12volt power runs thru Clutch Switch or on automatic trans thru NSS(Park/Neutral switch)

RUN power can also be bad, but engine would start and then die as soon as key moved back from START position to RUN, cutting power to coil.

So there may be no spark when starter motor is turning because the START power is not making it to coil/TFI module.
You can simply put a jumper wire from Battery + to Coil + and try to start engine

Good read here on TFI system: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

Also just to take it off the table, check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail, you should see a Schrader valve(looks like a tire air valve) on the fuel rail, remove it's cap, if it still has one, and press the center pin, just like letting air out of a tire, but BE CAREFUL, there should be 30psi of fuel pressure there, so it can squirt a long way.
If there is no pressure then you could have fuel pump problem.
Turn key ON count to 3 and turn key off, you should hear fuel pumps(you have 2) running for 2 seconds, repeat 3 times then check for pressure again.
 
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It'll crank but will not start
 
Yes, got that part
see if there is fuel pressure
see if jumping 12volts to coil helps
 
Have 12 to coil both green and red wires and have fuel still no spark
 
I have power at the tfi on run and start
 
similar problem on 2.9l '88

Engine died when driving home the other day, no symptoms no sputter, just quit.
Engine cranks
All accessories work
No fire when squirting fuel into intake
No power at coil when KOEO (Key On Engine Off)
No power at coil when cranking
Replaced coil and ICM.
Even Code Reader does not return any results with KOEO. Code reader works as we used is a few months ago to diagnose a timing issue.
No visible damage to Fusable links.

Will check the Ford EEC-IV tomorrow for corrosion, etc.

I've read about a 30A and 50A fuses (where are these located?)

Other thoughts for where to look?
Thanks!
 
I'm not really an expert on cars, but maybe you should start by finding out why the coil has no power.
 
Ignition switch under steering column supplies power to coil when key is on, it also supplies power to activate starter motor.
Since you say the starter motor is activated by the key then it wouldn't be a fuse issue, or fusible link, because there is power at the ignition switch.

But there is an EEC relay that should "click on" when key is turned on, this powers the coil, fuel injectors, EEC(computer) and fuel pump relay.
It is located on the passenger fender, sometimes under engine fuse box
It will have a Brown Base, fuel pump relay will have a Green Base.
When you turn on the key do you hear it "click"?
You should also hear the fuel pump come on for 2 seconds each time key is turned on, do you hear that?

If you hear the "click" but no fuel pump then yes it could be the EEC fuse, check engine fuse box, should be 30amp
 
Thank you for the quick replies!

I don't hear the click or the fuel pump come on; something my son noticed as not being right, either. I am an old Toyota Land Cruiser guy and am only recently learning how to speak Ford! It's my son's truck, which despite it's age has been quite reliable up until now.

We'll have another listen and check the engine fuse box. Thanks!
 
Located the relays on the passenger wall, no audible click when turning the key. NO fuel pump sound, no pressure at the rail, either.

I'll see if I can test the relays, otherwise I'll replace them and go from there. I hope it's not the EEC
 
EEC(computer) is not part of the EEC relay circuit.
EEC Relay turns on the power for the EEC.

If there are 3 relays in a row swap the Black base relay with the Brown base relay, all 3 are the same type of relay, same part number.
Black base relay is for Wide Open Throttle(WOT), it would shut off AC compressor when you need extra power, if you don't have AC then relay may not be there

You could swap Green Base and Black base relays as well but if Black Base EEC relay was bad then Fuel pump wouldn't work.
But if new relay in Black based now "clicks" then you would know original was bad.
Also check the wires at the base of the relay, these can corrode and/or become loose.

EEC relay gets power to "click" from the ignition switch.
Ignition switch gets power from a Fusible link connected to the Starter Relay(solenoid) on the fender, it would be on the same post as the battery positive cable.

A Fusible link is a 6"-8" wire that will burn out if there is a short, these won't "blow" instantly like a fuse would, they are "slow blow" which is why they are used in systems that might get a voltage spike now and then.
 
Last edited:
Thanks RonD!

I removed the relays (Green and Brown), there is no black relay as truck does not have A/C.

Both relays tested OK. Clicked when 12 volts applied to small leads, continuity across large leads when voltage applied.

Tested voltage at relay plugs (green and brown). Measured 12 volts and 10 volts at large relay plug female inserts, zero voltage at small leads on both relay plugs with key on.

Should I not register voltage at the small leads of the plugs with the key on?

Again, all accessories work, starter turns over. All fusable links appear to be OK, visually.

Is there another fuse between ignition steering column switch and the fuel and EEC relays?
 

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