1986 2.3l ranger

[86ranger4x4owner]

I have a 1986 ranger 4x4 5 speed with the 2.3l fuel injected. The problem I have is that it idles good and will start up every time. But when I give it gas it sputters and doesnt have much power. I have replaced timing belt because it was worn but lined everything up right and on the compression stroke. I put the rotor pointing at number one spark plug on the cap. Still no luck. I have put the whole distributor a tooth to the right and left of the spot where it will run and still no better. So far I have replaced the distributor, the cap and rotor button, new wires, new plugs and properly gapped. New ignition coil, cleaned the Thottle body. Checked the fuel presure and it was good. It starts up everytime but doesnt drive good at all. I put a timing light and set the base timing at 10* btdc and then hooked up the spout connector and one time it went up to 30* btdc just idling now it doesn't. So when it idles it idles ok and spits and sputters just a little but when driving it it doesnt have much power and sputters and also the enigne pings if you floor it but if you move the dizzy around a little and drive again it wont ping but still sputters and no power. Please help.

 

[Mark_88]

How long has it been doing this and what else have you tried?

Did you check the vac line on the fuel pressure regulator (pull it off and if it smells like gas then your FPR is pooched).

It does sound like fuel feed issues...it has enough fuel pressure to start but not enough to run properly...

Does removing the air inlet tube from the TB make any difference?

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

How long has it been doing this and what else have you tried?

Did you check the vac line on the fuel pressure regulator (pull it off and if it smells like gas then your FPR is pooched).

It does sound like fuel feed issues...it has enough fuel pressure to start but not enough to run properly...

Does removing the air inlet tube from the TB make any difference?

It's been happening ever since I got it running again. It use to not start when it rained but it was a loose wire. I have checked the vac line and it doesn't smell like gas. I have tried plugging the maf in the airbox to make sure it works. Is there any other sensors that could make this issue? And no removing the air tube doesn't do anything.

 

[Mark_88]

I had a vacuum leak and it caused the engine to start OK but it would not rev up without totally dying...the leak on mine was in the carb base...so you might want to try spraying brake cleaner or something around the intake to see if the idle picks up when you do that...if it does...you have a vacuum leak and it needs to be sealed...

As for sensors...no idea...you probably have a MAP, O2, and maybe some others...but not sure...

I'd look for the vacuum leak first...could also be your brake booster hose...if it's unplugged or leaking you would get a similar result...if you have power assisted brakes that is...

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

I had a vacuum leak and it caused the engine to start OK but it would not rev up without totally dying...the leak on mine was in the carb base...so you might want to try spraying brake cleaner or something around the intake to see if the idle picks up when you do that...if it does...you have a vacuum leak and it needs to be sealed...

As for sensors...no idea...you probably have a MAP, O2, and maybe some others...but not sure...

I'd look for the vacuum leak first...could also be your brake booster hose...if it's unplugged or leaking you would get a similar result...if you have power assisted brakes that is...

I have pulled all the vacuum lines off and put them back on the only difference was high idle and the whole intake has new gaskets so where else to look for a vacuum leak? I was thinking it could be the fuel filter? Anyway it could be that? I just let it run for a few minutes and decided to pull of the vac line for the regulator at the tb and it didn't do anything but I dropped it and it started leaking fuel out of it. So I plugged it back up and let it run then turned it off and took the end off at the regulator and gas came out is this right or what?

 

[Mark_88]

No, that is probably your problem right there...the vacuum line should not have any fuel in it...it means the diaphram in the regulator is pooched...if you mean the vacuum line had fuel coming out of it, that is...

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

No, that is probably your problem right there...the vacuum line should not have any fuel in it...it means the diaphram in the regulator is pooched...if you mean the vacuum line had fuel coming out of it, that is...

I took the vacuum line off the regulator after I let it run a while and gas came out. I watched a video and it said to disconnect the vacuum line while running and if any gas comes out its bad. Is this correct?

 

[cody93]

yep, the fuel pressure regulator has a bad diaphram, replace it

 

[Mark_88]

Double yep...that should fix it...

 

[Mikel89us]

Also set your base timing to 20 degrees advanced, it will give you better torque and hp. Not to mention the slight avantage in fuel mileage. Trust me on this one, it has worked timme and time again on 2.3s. The stock 2.3 has a lot of potential that was left unlocked by Ford, one thing is the ignition timing. (same with the 5.0, 16 degrees is optimal for them, i have seen both tested on a dyno)

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

Also set your base timing to 20 degrees advanced, it will give you better torque and hp. Not to mention the slight avantage in fuel mileage. Trust me on this one, it has worked timme and time again on 2.3s. The stock 2.3 has a lot of potential that was left unlocked by Ford, one thing is the ignition timing. (same with the 5.0, 16 degrees is optimal for them, i have seen both tested on a dyno)

Do you know anything else that gives you more horsepower without spending to much? I did the zip tie trick to the gas pedal and helped a lot.

 

[Mikel89us]

Do you know anything else that gives you more horsepower without spending to much? I did the zip tie trick to the gas pedal and helped a lot.

I sure do! If you have aroun $100 to spend, take the head off, send it to a machine shop and have them mill .100" off the deck. That will up your compression significantly. It should give you better mpg as well, with gobs more torque. While youre in it, might as well change the the timing belt as well unless its been changed. Head gasket ~ 10 bucks. Machine work here for me is $70, depends on the shop though. Most will be around that price. You may have to run 89 octane with this or 91. I have .150" shaved off my mustang, and i run 91 with 18 degrees base timing. Its got loads of low end torque. The computer limits HP though because its not tuned for more fuel to make more power. You will see a significant difference.

 

[Mark_88]

Ten bucks for a head gasket? I'm moving to the USA...just bought one and paid $57 for the set...and he will probably need a set since to remove the head he has to pull the intake and exhaust and might as well put on new gaskets (they come with FI for every connection in the set...and I just happen to have an entire set of FI gaskets that I don't currently need...minus the head gasket and intake manifold)...

 

[86ranger4x4owner]

I put on the new fuel pressure regulator still didnt help a bit. It will idle but will cut off sometimes also if you give it gas then let off while idling it cuts off. the main problem is when you go down the road it wont go smooth you give it gas and it sputters while its going then when you get it cranked up it starts sputtering. its like its only the first little bit of the pedal but after that it smooths out. any ideas? could a clogged up fuel filter cause this? I remember at one point it would idle rough when it was low on gas then you put gas in it and it would idle smooth kinda weird but doesnt do that now. please help.

 

[Mark_88]

That sucks...

The fuel filter could cause it...as would a wonky inertia switch...a bad MAP sensor (although that is usually accompanied by erratic idle)...a wonky fuel pump...a leaky fuel line...a vacuum line broken somewhere...a wonky O2 sensor...a cracked distributor cap...a rusty or worn rotor or one that isn't making contact properly...and plug wires that are not connected properly or are aching out on the manifold...the list goes on and on...

Throwing parts at it is not as easy as reading codes and reading codes is way less expensive...so you might want to invest some time in that...there is a link on how to read codes from the older systems on this site...and the value of knowing how to do it is worth the time invested...