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1986 2.3l ranger


Have you tried the throttle position sensor? That would cause it to die when off the throttle. If you have a digital multimeter check the resistance at closed throttle and up to WOT, if its bad it will show an open circuit.
 
Ten bucks for a head gasket? I'm moving to the USA...just bought one and paid $57 for the set...and he will probably need a set since to remove the head he has to pull the intake and exhaust and might as well put on new gaskets (they come with FI for every connection in the set...and I just happen to have an entire set of FI gaskets that I don't currently need...minus the head gasket and intake manifold)...

I forget about the other gaskets... I have a pile laying around my house of 2.3 gasakets, plus clear silicone works great. I dont even use exhaust gaskets anymore. But yes the last head gasket i bought (stock one) was 10.99. The one i bought last was a comtec MLS head gasket and i paid $90 for it.
 
Today I got it to idle and I starting unplugged stuff and plugging it back in. I unplugged I think the she valve its behined the valve cover and has a black electrical connector and a big metal pipe going to the back. But it ran better then i plugged it back in and the truck cut off. So i unplugged it and was able to drive the truck down the road for the first time in 2 years. It's still low on power I think the timing is off cause its idling low. But which wires do you check on the tps and what other sensors can i test with a multimeter?
 
Today I got it to idle and I starting unplugged stuff and plugging it back in. I unplugged I think the she valve its behined the valve cover and has a black electrical connector and a big metal pipe going to the back. But it ran better then i plugged it back in and the truck cut off. So i unplugged it and was able to drive the truck down the road for the first time in 2 years. It's still low on power I think the timing is off cause its idling low. But which wires do you check on the tps and what other sensors can i test with a multimeter?

that plug is to your EGR. I dont know why it would die from it being plugged in because all that is, is a monitor for the pintle position. unless its carboned up and it thinks its open due to the pintle seating higher than normal.

Check the TPS at the center wire for voltage, should be .6-.9 volts at closed throttle, then open it slowly and see if it ever drop to 0 volts. if it does you need a new tps. just ground the negative of the multimeter for this test with the key on, engine off.
 
H
that plug is to your EGR. I dont know why it would die from it being plugged in because all that is, is a monitor for the pintle position. unless its carboned up and it thinks its open due to the pintle seating higher than normal.

Check the TPS at the center wire for voltage, should be .6-.9 volts at closed throttle, then open it slowly and see if it ever drop to 0 volts. if it does you need a new tps. just ground the negative of the multimeter for this test with the key on, engine off.

All I know is it will cut off if you plug it in. But you can plug it in then restart it but it won't idle. Also I've tried moving the distributor everywhere but I can't get it to idle up and get more power. There's only one spot where it runs good but it idles low and has no power.
 
Well today I bought a code reader. I hooked it up and it will not scan and i dont know why. So I put it on my other ranger which is a 88 and the connector is the same and it scanned it. I hooked it up and everything right on the 86. But it will not scan. So am i dont know what to do next. I done replaced a lot of things and bought the scanner to save money but it wont work on this truck but it will on my other one. Anybody got any ideas?
 
Try buying a can of throttle body cleaner and spray the throttle body out (while running around 3000 rpm, it will try to die so you cant do it all at once, short bursts work best. and then do the same thing into the idle air valve port.
 
Try buying a can of throttle body cleaner and spray the throttle body out (while running around 3000 rpm, it will try to die so you cant do it all at once, short bursts work best. and then do the same thing into the idle air valve port.

What will this do? I took the Tb off and cleaned it with cleaner. I wonder why I it want let me pull any codes?
 
If it runs but wont idle cleaning the idle air control valve might help.
 
If it runs but wont idle cleaning the idle air control valve might help.

It idles and runs. But I can't get it to idle up. I cleaned the maf a while back but what do i clean it with? I wish I could pull codes instead of just throwing money at it but my code reader won't scan it.
 
Anybody have any ideas of why it will not complete the scan? It does run right now but is idling rough and no power. I hooked the code reader up and it starts to scan but wont complete it. Anybody ever had any problem like this? I checked the fuses and there all good.
 
You should be able to jump the wires and count flashes. Ive nver done this, so idk how it works exactly, but someone on here does.
 
Any ideas why I can't read any codes with my code reader guys? I'm at a standstill until I can scan the computer.
 
Not sure, but there is a difference between OBDs that may be the problem...earlier ones needed to use a volt meter IIRC...the newer ones can be read directly...so if your code reader reads directly on the newer one then you may need to use the old method on the older Ranger...

There is a post on how to pull codes from the older OBDs...think it's a sticky too...maybe search for pulling codes...
 

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