1984 Skamper 072S

[racsan]

we had a old mid-60’s penguin brand full-size slide in camper in the 70’s. It had 3 jacks, Two on one side front & back corner, other side had just 1, in the middle.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

we had a old mid-60’s penguin brand full-size slide in camper in the 70’s. It had 3 jacks, Two on one side front & back corner, other side had just 1, in the middle.

That is how mine is, two on the drivers side ends and one in the middle of the passenger side.

 

[Shran]

Yeah. The minute my big butt crawls up in the bunk, that thing would nose over like that airplane picture on the first page of this thread.

well yeah, I wouldn't even attempt that. It would fall over if I even tried to get inside.

Most of the year it is parked on top of a little 4x9 utility trailer... pretty handy for moving it around. I should just add tie downs on that and then I could use it without putting it in the truck.

 

[Grumpaw]

well yeah, I wouldn't even attempt that. It would fall over if I even tried to get inside.

Most of the year it is parked on top of a little 4x9 utility trailer... pretty handy for moving it around. I should just add tie downs on that and then I could use it without putting it in the truck.

Have seen that done many times at campgrounds and state parks.......

 

[racsan]

they are handy and have the added bonus of not needing seperate licence plates, wheel bearings/tires and in some cases just use the trucks tail/brake lighting. Granted there are drawbacks too, can be too tall for drive-throughs, changes the center of gravity, not as much room as a towable trailer inside. I remember dad always had to disconnect the cab lights on the truck because the light would glare off the underside of the front overhang.

 

[sgtsandman]

Since the weight is higher up, a rear sway bar will make a make a world of difference. Sure it’s only 1,000# but some of that 1,000# is well above the location the intended load carrying is supposed to be.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Since the weight is higher up, a rear sway bar will make a make a world of difference. Sure it’s only 1,000# but some of that 1,000# is well above the location the intended load carrying is supposed to be.

That is what I am really hoping.

Anyway, did a little cleaning on the inside tonight (there is another big window above the cab, I just didn't have it open):



It has an inverter to switch between running off the truck or shore power:



VERY complex fuse panel:



Cute little galley/kitchen, heater is set in the cupboards to the lower left:



Interior of the ice box, ice goes in the top tray, as it melts the water runs down the hose and drains outside the camper.



As for the clearance lights, I noticed I have two pairs of green (running light) and white (ground) wires running up to the ceiling behind the ice box:



And a single pair at the back right of the camper:



So I have multiple circuits for the clearance lights. My searches for a wiring diagram thus far have came up dry.

For general info at least this one does have city water hookup so you don't have to use the tank (top right) lower right is the drain for the sink, there is no holding tank. 110v cord door petrified and probably crumbled apart much like the sink drain cap is about to.



The propane tank sits right behind the drivers door in that access door.



And the water fill port is on the passenger side:



Skamper had their factory in Bristol Indiana, it is amusing all the little things I find that are made in Indiana. Like the inverter, and the water fill apparatus, I think there was something else I forgot too. Kinda neat how they were keeping it local.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Slipped it off the truck yesterday since it is supposed to rain all week.



Stuck it on my pickupbox trailer so it could possibly fit into a building:



So close... had to let the air out of the tires and get my dad to stand on the back bumper for it to slip in.



And there it will sit until this winter when I get time to fix the roof (tarp is for barn swallow poop)



And of note, it has "center of gravity" decals on the side overhangs... I think that is for when the water tank is full. The decals are well ahead of the axle but I can't have more than 20 pounds of tongue weight with a 7' bed. It also makes me ponder if a full water tank (clear to the front and down low) would improve the ride and handling...

 

[racsan]

If you have a set of 5.30 or 4.80 -12” trailer tires laying around, they will clear the ranger drums and give you a little more clearance. Im thinking about putting a regular trailer axle on mine just to lower its height.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I need to pull the 4wd blocks out of it at some point.

My C also has the little dinky 14's and I think the same bolt pattern...

I would really like to come up with a way to get it inside without having to take it out and put it in something else and then take it out of that (I don't want it tie up my trailer indefinitely) There is a ramp up and into the barn so a rolling stand like what Uncle Gump had won't work.

 

[Shran]

Car wheel dollies? Put one under each corner? Or maybe build a low cart out of 4x4s/angle iron/etc and put some casters on the bottom. Snowmobile trailer/Harbor Freight trailer with little tires.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The jacks only go so low. And it is a pretty good grade to get into the barn.

 

[sheep herder]

You need a bigger barn door.

 

[Shran]

^ yeah, second that.

I used to stack pallets under mine... about 3 high kept it high enough to be off the ground and snow drifts, and didn't feel tippy. That doesn't solve your movable problem though.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

You need a bigger barn door.

There is a big 12"x12" beam that runs across the top of what I have that kinda holds the whole side together.

I really need to get going on my machine shed...

If I get the roof fixed/resealed it won't be such a do or die thing for the camper to be inside all the time too.