1984 2.8 specific question

[KBlaze]

Where do these wires go to the left of this plug? I know alternator, oil, temp. I have a brown with pink and one that looks yellow with an orange dash? This truck has been converted to Duraspark but has the solenoid hotwired.

I jumped the solenoid and the engine runs but makes a loud whining sound...is this the new timing gears?

 

[RonD]

Have a look here at the wiring diagram:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/diagram_charging_1983to1985_1.JPG

Could be external Voltage Regulator wiring

No, loud whining would not be normal with old or new anything, could starter motor gear still be engaged?
Remove fan belt and restart, if no whining then alternator or water pump or .....?? is the source of the noise.

 

[KBlaze]

ok. Wires to external regulator are on another plug. I'm going to pull the belts and try again.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Is the air pump still hooked up?
Is the alternator hooked up correct just disconnect the small white /black stripe from the alternator the orange /lt blue goes to the regulator and the black/orange goes to battery pos.
When you put a new cap and rotor on somtimes the rotor hits the cap electrodes a little until they wear down after a few minutes it should go away.
Your amp guage should show charge until the battery is fully charged. To find the water temp and oil pressure wires turn the key on and check for 8 volts pulsing voltage on two of the wires. short those wires to ground and see what guage it goes to. To jumper the start solenoid all I do is pull the small wire off the solenoid and short it with a screwdriver from thebattery side of the solenoid to the small terminal. What schematic did you use for the conversion? When I wired mine I only had to cut a couple wires to remove the computer harness completely from the grey 8 wire plug. I stripped the harness from the 8 wire plug your showing back to the alternator. Leave the water temp and oil pressure and alternator wires connected same with the coil. The module just plugs right in the two wire connector looks backwards but is correct red to white and white to red cut the coil neg wire long from the coil and splice it to the green wire on the module then the three wires to the distributor. Get the ground wire to the dizzy correct and the other two sensor wires can be reversed. It kinna sounds like your back feeding power to the start wire on the start solenoid just disconnect the wire to the small terminal and short the post to battery pos to crank it.

 

[KBlaze]

no air pump. the instrument cluster was not in, I plugged that up and the alternator began to charge. There are aftermarket gauges so I don't need those wires. The brown wire (hot run) and yellow (hot start) are not hooked up correctly.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/Ignite1.GIF
not quite sure where the brown and yellow wires are coming from all you need is three wires red white and red/lt green

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Are you using the stock square coil? TFI coil

 

[KBlaze]

I am using the square TFI coil. The red and white are a round plug beside the square one.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I found a 1984 2.0 ranger for the distributor harness and hooked the green from the module to coil neg. just plug the two wire connector in it is correct even tho the colors are backwards. If your still having problems getting the starter to work you can just run a wire from the white wire on the module to the small terminal on the start solenoid it is key on start only. What it does is retard ignition timing for cold starts.

 

[KBlaze]

Thanks for all the help...the stupid thing was in reverse and did not have enough fluid for me to tell. When we filled the transmission with fluid the truck backed up when it started. My daughter has not screwed the shifter surround to the floor and it just looked to be in park. Made sure it was all the way up in PARK and removed hot wire, plugged in wire on solenoid...cranked right up.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Cool I thought it was something simple didnt think to check it was in park or neutral. Are you still running the stock carb? Make sure it is timed at 10 degrees base, preadjust the idle air screws out three full turns each from lightly seated and dial the idle air screws for the highest possible lean rpms. Meaning turn it out until the rpm or vacuum gets its highest then back in to the point where just before it begins to drop rpm or vacuum pressure.

 

[KBlaze]

Thanks. The stock carb will be on for about a month. I have a stock 1978 Mustang II carb but it was the one that originally caught fire on the replacement engine.

 

[KBlaze]

The loud whine turned out to be a loud whistle from an internal carburetor vacuum issue.

 

[wildbill23c]

Vacuum leaks will certainly do that, along with changing the vehicle's idle speed. Glad you got it taken care of though.