1983 2.8 Ranger Resurrection

[kimcrwbr1]

Another pointer is never run the engine with any of the sensers disconnected the computer will go into limp mode and run like crap. If you get it running keep an eye on the choke and make sure it open fully if not just open it manually and after the engine is fully warmed up then you can dial in the idle air needles, adjust the curb idle and then after it fully cools down adjust the fast idle speed usually the next day. When adjusting the carb leave the IAT senser plugged in and set the air filter off to the side out of the way.

 

[drsvox]

First just want to say thank you for taking the time to walk thru this with me! Very much appreciated!!

So ok, getting ready to start working and trouble shooting, but in response to your posts:

Yes, charcoal canister is set up correctly: two solenoids, one w/ vacuum line to back of carb (on the mount), the other to the bowl vent. I had also replaced all the vacuum lines with new, and visually inspected the purge solenoids, but I do suppose they could be bad.

Air cleaner housing is not attached. Was trying to first start it with that off. As such, the bi-metal vacuum lines were not connected to tree or vacuum motor. Also, IAT was left disconnected.

Both keys (crank timing gear and balancer) fit snug...no play. at least that's how they were when I dropped the engine in.


I'm going to first pull the fan off and hand crank to find TDC on #1 and make sure that's all good, then go from there w/ mixture and vacuum.

Thanks again for your help!

[edit:] first problem found...timing off by 180. guess that'll do it, or contribute largely to it (oops).

 

[drsvox]

and...

success!

the only casualty that I've been able to notice thus far is the paint that cooked off the exhaust manifolds, and I can live with that.

first start break-in period over...(what a relief!)...letting it cool down for now

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Cool to adjust the slow needles use a vacuum guage or a tach. Bring the engine up to temp and then disconnect the idle speed motor should be around 700 rpms. Adjust the slow needles for the highest rpm or vacuum pressure first out then back in until the pressure or rpm only drops when you turn them in. than plug the motor back in and the computer should idle it down to normal idle speed. You want to set the anti deisel screw (normally the idle speed screw) on the side of the carb to where it almost touches the throttle lever. Then turn the motor off and the throttle motor should fully extend that is curb idle disconnect the idle speed motor and start the motor and adjust the position of the motor for around 1100 rpms and lock it down. Plug the idle motor back in and it should return to proper idle speed. Once you get the idle air and curb idle correct then you can preadjust the fast idle cam for the choke. Turn it off and then open the throttle at the same time push the choke butterfly fully closed and let off of the throttle that should be on the high cam for the choke. Start it but do not touch the throttle and adjust the rpms for around 1200 rpms using the fast idle screw under the choke assy pointed back toward the firewall. Then tap the throttle the engine should return to normal idle speed. You should notice the idle control motor should retract when you open the throttle the anti diesel screw will keep the throttle butterfly from closeing to far when you quickly let off the throttle until the computer takes over control of engine idle speed somewhere around 600-625 rpms. These little motors run extremely well with a good computer system probably will get pretty good mileage as well. Keep us posted how everything turns out. Once you get it all dialed in erase the computer memory by starting the KOEO test and when it starts sending codes end the test. Disconnect the battery for at least 20 minutes as you confirm all the wiring is connected correct and the vacuum lines are all good. The most common mistake is the EGR bleed line it goes to the bottom of the helicopter pad on the carb. It pulls filtered air into the closest solenoid to the firewall to allow the EGR valve to close. Good job by the way is the rotor pointed at 11 oclock #1 on the distributor cap when the #1 cylinder is at TDC?

 

[drsvox]

thanks kim and thanks again for the help I think I'm going to count my blessings for the day and start dialing in on stuff tomorrow!

timing is close now (so yes, rotor on 11 at #1TDC...after rotating the distributor 180 degrees!) and actually I set the crank at 10 before TDC with the rotor to fire on 1...

If anyone is interested:
Here's a link to the first start video. Its a rather short vid...am by myself today and wanted to focus on making sure nothing exploded.
http://youtu.be/BqgF1f-wQmo

And here's a walk around if her on the second run after cooling down. Let her idle just to listen for anything while she got up to temp. Held steady (as you can see by the gauges) and idled at a steady 550.
http://youtu.be/K7r5IMlXYY8

all in all I'd say it was a good day!

 

[drsvox]

Inaugural Drive

Had a few minor setbacks which delayed my tour of the neighborhood...new radiator and brake hose for the most part...and finally got everything (timing, fast idle, curb idle, etc.) dialed in. Put the new brake hose on tonight as soon as I got home from work, bled the lines, and away we went. Before today her tires had not touched asphalt in about 4.5 years...felt so good and she did so well...but still so much more to do.

Here are a few pics I took after backing out of the garage...went all out with custom seating for the first drive ;-)

And oh yeah...I'm kind of a spider man fan as you'll likely notice on the interior pic.

And yep, I aired up the front tires before driving...

 

[Lariat]

I was in a project that went the other way with the gutted interior, and if the parts for the 2.8 weren't so hard to find it would have been a resto, but alas it was a restomod. Your engine bay is beautiful! What are your exterior paint plans?

 

[drsvox]

Thanks Lariat! I'm trying to keep it as close to restoration as possible, but you're right...2.8 parts are hard to find. Fortunately I had a pretty solid inventory in the bay to work from.

The interior will be finished off w/ custom vinyl seats that match original design, but will be black w/ white pleats and piping. The spider in the steering wheel needs some finishing touches as well; I put in a small circuit board w/ LEDs, and 9v, and a push button and the center glows when switched on.

As for exterior paint: I have tossed around so many different ideas my head is spinning. I want to continue the Spider Man theme (it's my truck after all), but I don't want to go too far OTT.

For sure the hood will be black metallic w/ a white spider centered.

As for the rest of the body I was thinking either all black metallic w/ webbing (again similar to the steering wheel, but I'm afraid it will be too much look like crap); and then I was thinking two-tone red metallic over black metallic plain (following the horizontal line along fender, door, and bed), or that same design but w/ white webbing on the black; or just paint it all red metallic. Again, the hood design is definite.

I will certainly entertain opinions and ideas

An oh yeah: I'm ditching the sealed beams and will mod the headlights w/ halos.

 

[XLTsplash]

The metallic red sounds good. Maybe with some custom Spider Man emblems. How about the the lacy spoke wheels painted to look like spider webs with Spider Man wheel center emblems. Just some ideas.

 

[jhammel85]

It's alive!!!

Awesome. I love it when a plan comes together.

 

[drsvox]

It is very much alive and I like it a lot!!

As for the exterior I think I'm going to go solid red met for the entire body, except the hood, which will be black met (w/ the white spider). I don't want to disrupt the rims too much, and plan on polishing the aluminum surfaces and painting the spoke insets black. everything else external (bumpers, grille, handles, mirrors, etc.) will be chrome or stainless.

Speaking of the wheels: the manual hubs are in very good shape, save the dials. They are faded and cracked and I want new ones (without having to fork out bucks for new hubs). So...

Does anyone know where I can get my hands on just the dials, or be willing to part with a pair of decent used for a modest price? Original does not matter as much as fit and functionality

 

[XLTsplash]

Here are the type of wheels I was thinking of that have a web look to them.

 

[drsvox]

Oh yeah. Now I see what you're talkin about. I could definitely incorporate those rims

 

[drsvox]

The Little Things...

Went to the junkyard today (Pullapart)...came across an '85 with a 2.8 in it and scored a couple (what I feel are) rare finds: original set of vacuum lines, and an original cold air intake.

As you can see, fading and damage (CAI to air cleaner housing) is surprisingly minimal.

Just gotta clean them up and blow out the lines.

Should be nice additions for the "authenticity" of the restoration...

 

[jhammel85]

Nice score!