1966 Ranger 2.9 coolent in oil.

[Rubystargoats]

I need some help here, was directed to this site by NWFD site. Here was part of the trhead there.

Is there any common cause for water in oil on these engines ? I have pulled heads and all gaskets looked good. Do these heads crack internally in a way that leaks coolent into the oil? I have another engine with a burnt #1 piston and would take those heads and put on the leaky engine but not sure that will solve the problem. The heads were pulled some time ago and it seemed to help for 2 months then got progressivly worse. coolent looks good just foamy oil and coolent loss. This is in a 2WD Ranger that I am trying to fix for Camp Berachah.


Re: need expert on 1988 2.9 Ranger V6
Reply #2 - Today at 08:47:14 JSlack wrote on Today at 08:03:54:
can u take a pic of the head, with the chambers showing?

it's very possible that the head is cracked between the valves.

throw that other head on, just to try and rule it cracked or not.

you could also try and dissasemble the heads, just take the valves out...put the heads back on, and pressurize the coolant system...shine some light down the intake ports and see what you can see...just an idear...

Looked pretty close at the heads and no visable cracks anywhere, hence the question about internal cracks. but cracks to the combustion chamber should just blow clouds of steam not coolent in oil? Also no complaints of over preasure or blow out of coolent, only coolent in oil and maybe some smoke.

Don't want to do a bunch more work or money on gaskets if something other than the heads are causing the problem. The camp does not have much money for vehical repairs.

I want/hope for an inexpensive with minimal/no work needed answer. I just would hate to bolt up the other heads and still have an issue.

I hate just throwing parts at problems without actually finding the failure and I sure do NOT want to have to redo this job. These old rigs are so covered in crud it takes more time to clean them up than fix them

 

[Psychopete]

2.9L is known for cracking heads. No so much in the chambers, look up by the rocker assembly pedestals. Happened to me, no signs of a blown head gasket or burning coolant, just getting into the oil. Replaced the heads, rebuilt the engine (for fun) and the problem was solved. Also remember to replace the head bolts when putting new heads on - every time, there is no exception to this rule.

Pete

 

[Rubystargoats]

2.9L is known for cracking heads. No so much in the chambers, look up by the rocker assembly pedestals. Happened to me, no signs of a blown head gasket or burning coolant, just getting into the oil. Replaced the heads, rebuilt the engine (for fun) and the problem was solved. Also remember to replace the head bolts when putting new heads on - every time, there is no exception to this rule.

Pete

Thanks, after further checking and your answer I will swap heads with the other engine and hope that they are good as there is no sign of cracks or coolant in oil or other signs of failure except burned piston, (should not be caused by cracked head?) I will look closer at that part of the head as it is #1 cylinder that failed.
Another question is the engine from the truck has standard hex head bolts but the wrecking yard engine with the bad piston has #55 TORX head bolts. they said it was also a 1988 but?? When did they use the standard hex and when did they use the torx?

Are there aftermarket head bolts that are cheaper or better than OEM?

 

[Psychopete]

Another question is the engine from the truck has standard hex head bolts but the wrecking yard engine with the bad piston has #55 TORX head bolts. they said it was also a 1988 but?? When did they use the standard hex and when did they use the torx?

Are there aftermarket head bolts that are cheaper or better than OEM?

Ironically #1 and #6 are the cylinders most prone to crack. Inversely, since you can swap head from side to side, they are the same cylinder.

FWIW, My stock head bolts were T-55 Torx, the set I bought from Napa were hex. It's possible that someone has been in there before. I think the head bolts were around $40 from Napa (several years ago), but check out rockauto.com and it's pretty easy to compare prices of local auto stores by looking up the parts on their web sites.

Pete

 

[Rubystargoats]

So the wrecking yard heads are late version heavier heads, Do these heads need to be resurfaced or can I just block sand them clean and be OK? Since the intake manifold pulls straight down and soes not bolt to the heads, is there a problem getting it to seal if the heads are resurfaced which can cause slight angle and gap dimension change on the intake face of the heads?

 

[Psychopete]

So the wrecking yard heads are late version heavier heads, Do these heads need to be resurfaced or can I just block sand them clean and be OK? Since the intake manifold pulls straight down and soes not bolt to the heads, is there a problem getting it to seal if the heads are resurfaced which can cause slight angle and gap dimension change on the intake face of the heads?

I don't know if I would necessarily recommend block sanding them. I hate doing things twice, in that instance, I would likely go to a shop to make sure and get advise since they can see what you have and are professionals. It can get expensive, but doing something over just makes it that much more expensive. I guess it all really just depends on what you have.

Yes, chopping the heads will have a little impact on the lower intake. With .030" milled off my heads, I had to have the lower milled to compensate on the bottom and sides. I tried to run it as-is cause the shop told me it would be OK, but it leaked coolant into my oil the first week I had the engine together. Ripped it out, had it milled to specs (there's a book that tells you how much), and it wasn't a problem after that.

Pete

 

[Rubystargoats]

I don't know if I would necessarily recommend block sanding them. I hate doing things twice, in that instance, I would likely go to a shop to make sure and get advise since they can see what you have and are professionals. It can get expensive, but doing something over just makes it that much more expensive. I guess it all really just depends on what you have.

Yes, chopping the heads will have a little impact on the lower intake. With .030" milled off my heads, I had to have the lower milled to compensate on the bottom and sides. I tried to run it as-is cause the shop told me it would be OK, but it leaked coolant into my oil the first week I had the engine together. Ripped it out, had it milled to specs (there's a book that tells you how much), and it wasn't a problem after that.

Pete

Thanks, I was afraid of that. So I need to not only get a good machine shop but also one that understands the 2.9. Dang these little gas engines are a pain.

 

[Psychopete]

Thanks, I was afraid of that. So I need to not only get a good machine shop but also one that understands the 2.9. Dang these little gas engines are a pain.

I would just go to get opinion at first, you don't necessarily need to drop them off, but they will at least get you in the right direction as far as if they see any problems off the bat and the best route for getting them prepped for installation. Best to get a second pair of eyes on things sometimes IMO.

Pete