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1350 and 1354 rear flange swap ?


shadetreebronco

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Messages
156
City
Connecticut unfortunately.
Vehicle Year
75 87 96
Transmission
Automatic
My 87 Bronco II has the CV type driveshaft and i am planning a 8.8 swap so i am wondering if a 2006 1354 rear flange could be swapped into my 1350 transfer case.
 
This probably isn't answer you want, but the simplest solution is to replace the 1310 u-joint with a 5-134X conversion one. Then your existing driveshaft will attach to the 8.8 differential.

My concern with installing a 1354 flange is what are you doing for a CV joint in the new driveshaft? The BII is so short it need the CV to handle the angles. And new custom CV driveshaft isn't exactly cheap.

Intermediate step is to have a 1330 end put on your existing driveshaft so you could run the 1330 to the 8.8. You will have to carry 2 sizes of u-joints anyways as the front driveshaft would still be the smaller 1310.

My $0.02.
 
Thanks Don ,
My existing driveshaft is the type without u-joints.
Along with the 8.8 i will be doing a small lift so im looking to upgrade.
The new drive shaft will be custom made for the truck so would prefer the larger u-joibts.
 
Don, some of the BII's used a literal CV joint like on a FWD car, has limited travel and dies suddenly...

Yes, the output of the 1350 and 1354 are the same, at one point I used a 1350 rear case half on a 1354...
 
I thought output flanges where interchangeable , just wanted to confirm thanks for the info.
Every now and then i get a growling noise on acceleration Over 200,000 may be on that driveshaft .
 
Just when I think I have a handle on all the idiosyncrasies, someone throws another out there.

So, Scott humour me: What is a literal CV joint?

I know of Rzeppa and Tripod but not Literal (and of course, the double cardan).

Most of the failures which I have worked on for Rzeppa and Tripod have occurred shortly after the dust boot tore and they lost all their grease. The idea of using them in driveshaft is...intriguing. They would allow smoother operation at greater angle.
 
Sorry, it was morning... literal was just a term, some people call dual cardan joints CV which they technically are, but I meant they are like a car and have several balls that take the load not the center alignment ball on a dual cardan...

They might allow smoother operation at greater angle, but they weren't designed to take more than stock ride height, same with the CV joint on the front shaft of the Explorer I'm working on... it seems pretty limited...

Best setup I believe is a 1354 with a '90-97 front shaft that is dual cardan, and I don't know if it is all regular cab short bed Rangers but mine has a dual cardan rear shaft as well, zero driveline vibration at any speed with the hubs locked in or not...
 

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