100k Tune Up

[HavaRanger]

My 08xlt 3.0 ranger is at 99kmi right now, and it got me thinking about a replacing a couple parts for some preventive maintenance. Dealer replaced MAF about 35k miles ago(yr ago) as the ranger went into limp mode as I was getting onto the freeway.

So far what ive looked into...
Upper and lower ball joints
I will inspect mine to see if they need replaced

IAC valve
My ranger has a odd very slight roughness/jitter when Idling. Im looking into cleaning it or if I have to replace. I've had people in it and they've noticed it too.

PCV valve
Its a cheap part so should I replace it even if mine is fine. They commonly fail on high mileage rangers?

fuel filter
/Im good on oil- Mobil 1 ext /Napa Gold filter

??Camshaft Syncro sensor??
Around 75kmi I got the Camshaft Syncro sensor Code on my Bluetooth OBDII. Code came up and went away on a few occasions. But I haven't got a check engine light for about 15k miles.

Even without Getting any Check Engine Light or OBDII Code, it has sorta stalled on me, not to the point of dying but like a lag of 2 secs before it would rev up to go forward and then ran fine... Very bizarre and odd thing, has only happened twice.

Battery
Thinking maybe it might be causing issues since its like 3 years old,

Just what ive come up with, Im curious what other ranger owners have done

 

[Rearanger]

Upper and lower ball joints - Mine needed replacement at 68K - very poor Ford quality. They were all bad with major squeaking and torn boots. You'll need a free loner tool and impact gun to replace the lower. You should also install upper camber/caster adjustment kit as factory set is non adjustable.

IAC valve - Clean first.

PCV valve - Sure replace, as you said it's cheap and easy to replace.

fuel filter - I think Ford says 30k. It's cheap and easy to replace.

Camshaft Syncro sensor?? Around 75kmi I got the Camshaft Syncro sensor Code on my Bluetooth OBDII. Code came up and went away on a few occasions. But I haven't got a check engine light for about 15k miles. Even without Getting any Check Engine Light or OBDII Code, it has sorta stalled on me, not to the point of dying but like a lag of 2 secs before it would rev up to go forward and then ran fine... Very bizarre and odd thing, has only happened twice.

I had same symptoms including squeaking but no CEL, so I have just replaced the syncro and sensor at 76K. My syncro looked OK so maybe it was just the sensor. If you remove the sensor look for fine black plastic shavings in the top of the syncro. If you're not getting squeaking try the sensor first. Some syncro replacements don't come with a new sensor anyway.

Battery - It's probably past due. There may be a condition indication light on the battery top. If green then it's still OK.

 

[adsm08]

Battery - It's probably past due. There may be a condition indication light on the battery top. If green then it's still OK.

This is wrong. The battery eye does not indicate the condition of the entire battery, but only the one cell it is actually in. A bad battery can have a green eye and a good battery can have a red eye. That is ONLY for indicating state of charge at the assembly plant.

 

[Rearanger]

This is wrong.

Never knew that. However my light showed orange after being green since new. If that one cell is bad then wouldn't that indicate new battery needed?

 

[adsm08]

Not necessarily. The eye is a hydrometer, like you used to use on the old serviceable batteries, it's just built in. I'm not an electrical engineer so I don't understand the nitty-gritty of it, but it is possible to discharge a single cell. The level of charge affects the density of the fluid, and that is what the eye is showing you.

Heck if you shake the stupid thing hard enough the eye can show red for half an hour or more until the balls get themselves sorted out again.


Like I said, it's only there so the boys at the factory can look at it quick and see if the battery got charged up after it was put together.

 

[Rearanger]

Like I said, it's only there so the boys at the factory can look at it quick and see if the battery got charged up after it was put together.

That being said I have not found a factory battery lasting much, if any, beyond 5 years - depending on weather location.

A load test would give a better idea, but only for the time it was tested.

 

[det107]

I would highly recommend R/R the following at 100k intervals-
1) water pump
2) timing chain
3) belt

 

[Twister]

That being said I have not found a factory battery lasting much, if any, beyond 5 years - depending on weather location.

A load test would give a better idea, but only for the time it was tested.

The battery in my moms 04 e350 lasted about 8 years, still worked when I changed it but it would drain if the radio was left on for more than 15 min or it was really cold.

Other things you might think about are, diff fluids, transmission fluid, clutch fluid (if manual). Maybe brake fluid, also maybe power steering fluid. Just suggestions, those fluids do go bad.

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[Rearanger]

2) timing chain

No one's commented on this one. Please tell me why a steel chain needs to be R&R'd at 100K.

1) water pump

OK, maybe if you're in there for timing chain. Usually you don't get a catastrophic failure here, and there are symptoms prior to complete failure.

 

[RideFord94]

Well my timing chain at 180k was stretched to the point it could almost touch if i pinched it together so I vote for timing set r&r as well

It had also skipped a tooth. Dont ask me how.
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[RideFord94]

Inspect the water pump while it's off. It might be ready to roll another 50-100k. get the timing cover gasket SET and it will come with a new front/crank seal as well as the gasket for a couple dollars more.

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[Rearanger]

Well my timing chain at 180k was stretched to the point it could almost touch if i pinched it together

Silly me for expecting some quality from Ford. Last timing chain vehicle I had was a Mazda truck which never needed a replacement in over 250k. It was finally junked after that due to an accident with new owner, but with the original engine that also never needed the heads removed.

 

[det107]

No one's commented on this one. Please tell me why a steel chain needs to be R&R'd at 100K.

Not sure why, but the ('02) chain was a bit stretched & would rattle on start ups. I thought my recommendation could be used as a precautionary measure-

 

[Rearanger]

Looking at my FSM there is no automatic or manual chain tensioner - another good idea from Ford. Not sure this is for all models.

Maybe then you should check chain tension periodically (no small job), but to what spec? The FSM does not give any maintenance info or does it give any tension spec. The only way you're going to tell is to set at TDCC and look at the sprocket timing marks for alignment.