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01 RWD front rotor questions


Summers22

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2025
Messages
234
Age
52
City
Kansas
Vehicle Year
2001
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Tire Size
225/70/15
New to RWD Rangers and my brakes need some help. Im well versed with the rear 10" drums, so all good there. My question is, my truck has 101k, pretty sure the rotors are original. What all do I replace on the new rotors, such as outer bearing, inner bearing and race, etc???? Its all confusing to me. Napa told me $22 to turn each rotor, but I don't know if I have to remove all the bearings or what, so I need to call them again. If I buy new rotors, what else do I need as far as bearings, etc? Anyone sell an all in one replacement rotor ready to install? Here is my front rotor specs:

Screenshot_20250210-200825_Chrome.jpg
 
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If the rotors look good and don't vibrate when you apply the brakes, re-use them. Look for any high wear ridges or cracks. If none, I would re-use them. Like everything lately, you take the high road and get new rotors, and they turn out to be China junk and end up warping after the first couple of times you use them.

Most of the rotors I looked up for your truck include the hub with the wheel studs. You just need to re-use your wheel bearings and get a new seal, or get new wheel bearings and a new grease seal. 4wd uses the all in one unit bearing.
 
I have a similar Ranger, 2005 2wd with 375,xxx miles. it's safe to say it has had quite a few brake jobs.
if the rotors are smooth I scuff them. if grooved they get replaced.
if they vibrate or have pulses it's replaced.
turning rotors does not always fix an out of round or vibrating problem because although the process may leave a true/straight surface the rotor will still
have varying thickness where the problem was ground off. when they heat up it will be uneven.

one of my points of interest is to clean the mating surface on the brackets, behind the stainless clips. usually have to file or chip away the rust.
rust there causes the metal to swell and prevents the pads from moving.
if not replacing the calipers run the pistons in & out to clean the seals.

open the bleeders first, expel the old fluid, don't push it back up the lines.

bearings are cleaned and checked. at 100,000+ I would replace them regardless.
many new rotors come with the races already installed, just clean, grease and new parts.
 
+1 on the above.

I prefer to pound out the installed races with a heavy punch and hammer, and install the races that come with the new
bearings, just to insure a matching set. That’s just me though.
 
+1 on the above.

I prefer to pound out the installed races with a heavy punch and hammer, and install the races that come with the new
bearings, just to insure a matching set. That’s just me though.
I try to do that but some new hubs don't allow access the race and are difficult to remove.
 
Thank you, after more research (which I probably should have done before making a new thread) I see what you are saying. I plan to take of the rotors, have NAPA resurface them, re-grease the bearings, buy 2 new seals and install new pads. I'll also do new shoes and hardware kit for the rear drums. I already bled the system with a quart of DOT3.
 
If Napa can't resurface them, I will buy 2 new rotors along with bearings, seals and pads.
 
If Napa can't resurface them, I will buy 2 new rotors along with bearings, seals and pads.
Make sure they measure them and look them up in the book. You can only take so much off of them before they are below spec.

Brakes are just energy changers. They change the energy of motion to heat. If they turn them too thin then they can't absorb as much heat and they don't work as good as they should. If they are not warped, it should work out ok.
 
Pretty sure there were 2 different rotor diameters for 2wd trucks starting in 01. Make sure that you measure yours before getting to far into the project.
The difference in diameter is also reflected in caliper brackets and spindle/knuckles too.
 
According to the VIN decoder, I have the 285mm rotors vs the 260mm.
 
Okay so the new rotors came with the races installed. Do I press them out and use the races that came with the Timken bearings? I know I'll get answers either way......
 
Okay so the new rotors came with the races installed. Do I press them out and use the races that came with the Timken bearings? I know I'll get answers either way......

Unless the rotors came with bearings as well, yes you will want to knock out the races and install the ones that came with the bearings. The races that come with the bearings are matched to the bearings and will give you the longest bearing life as long as you take care of them.
 
That's my inclination as well, thanks
 

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