'93 Ranger thread...

[85_Ranger4x4]

I thought Ford had completely converted all the speedos to electronic by the mid 90's Funny though that they didn't and you used late 1950's speedo parts 40 years later The damper bolt is torqued to about 90-100 ft/lbs, not 30-50. In any case (5.0) do NOT beat it on with a hammer, use the bolt to cinch it in place.

It may not have actually been cable driven, but had a gear driven VSS of some sort in the transfer case.

Dang, must have been the pulley bolts (it is written dead center between them and the dampener bolt)

 

[5.0]

You done right on both bolts and lock washers, but did you use bolts that thread as close to the bottom of the holes as possible ? That timing cover looks nasty, also looks corroded at the upper right hand side too.

I think they could have been a little longer. I have about 1/2" of thread into the block. I pulled a bolt from my 460 and measured it, then added the extra thickness of the bellhousing for the AOD and bought the bolts based on that measurement.

I'm thinking I'll have other problems like a broken case or something though before I rip 6 grade 8 bolts from 1/2" of iron block. I'm not sure though, I've been wrong a lot of times before...


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[baddad457]

I think they could have been a little longer. I have about 1/2" of thread into the block. I pulled a bolt from my 460 and measured it, then added the extra thickness of the bellhousing for the AOD and bought the bolts based on that measurement.

I'm thinking I'll have other problems like a broken case or something though before I rip 6 grade 8 bolts from 1/2" of iron block. I'm not sure though, I've been wrong a lot of times before...


.

AS long as it's a full 1/2", you'll be fine for holding the transmission to the engine block. If it was the block on a stand, you want them as deep as possible to hold the full weight of a fully dressed engine.

 

[5.0]

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Ok, my youngest boy just turned 2 and had a Chuckee Cheese birthday party and I've been staying at a girl's house for the last week... so as you can imagine, the progress has been very minimal lately.

I did manage to get the motor and transmission set in place. It sits just a little higher on one side, so I need to lift one side of the motor and get the plasma cutter in there to make the slot just a bit longer. I used a couple of the factory holes in the crossmember as a starting point, and just cut slots up away from them. The engine could be about 1/2" closer to the firewall, but I'm alright with it where it is because it gives a little more room for my passenger side exhaust manifold. I didn't hammer the trans tunnel lip, but it would have been a lot easier if I did.



Check it out... nothing but raw power!!!

 

[Mac]

AS long as it's a full 1/2", you'll be fine for engine.

The rule of thumb for us mechanical designers, alway mantain one full thread depth min. of thread going into steel/iron, for alum, 1.5 times thread diameter is recommended.
Dave of the Nord

 

[5.0]

So for my iron block, a 7/16" bolt should have at least 7/16" of thread in the block? (for bolting it to a transmission)

 

[baddad457]

The rule of thumb for us mechanical designers, alway mantain one full thread depth min. of thread going into steel/iron, for alum, 1.5 times thread diameter is recommended.
Dave of the Nord

That's fine for mating the motor to the transmission, but when hanging a motor on a stand, the deeper the better to support the motor when you're relying on the sheer tension (not sure that's the correct term) of the bolts to do their job with the entire weight of the engine hanging out in space.