New Addition

[Mark_88]

Looks a bit rusty...but if you're going to rebuild and restore it should be an interesting project...

 

[farmer]

I have an easy solution to rust

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

Sweet deal! If it's going to be a project truck, I wouldn't be too worried about the rust. You have all the time you need to chip away at it. Have fun man!

 

[farmer]

So I'm going to try to weld up the cast exhaust manifold, it looks like a pretty clean break. I'm going to preheat it with the oxy acetylene torch and use my crappy 110v mig welder. Any thing else I should know or any tips?

 

[farmer]

ok new exhaust manifold is in temporarily (3" c clamps ) and the clutch lines fixed.
I just bought a set of 16" wheels for my new tires, theyre plain 16" steelies off a mustang.
I assume that i need to enlarge the center hole to fit over the manual hub, but i havent confirmed whether or not its needed. If it is needed, how do you think is the best way to do it?

 

[7.5L_STX]

die grinder/ reamer type deal should work great.

 

[Boggin]

that, in my mind, is the ultimate ranger. 2nd gen short wheelbase with d35 and 8.8 with 5speed. im freakin jelous

 

[Irokranger93]

measure the center hole and compared with a steel wheel ford ranger
The center hole is too small for the locking hub to pass through. You would have to have the hub center cut out by a machine shop to fit over the hub.

EX:::: Center bore: 71.5 Size 16'' i think and ranger is 80.3


I would go with a wooden board and a bi-metal hole saw with a drill. Then cut the board so that it returns to center and screw in the 5x114.3 bolt hole and made a central hole of the board and started to enlarge the hole

good luck

 

[basilfaulty]

So I'm going to try to weld up the cast exhaust manifold, it looks like a pretty clean break. I'm going to preheat it with the oxy acetylene torch and use my crappy 110v mig welder. Any thing else I should know or any tips?

Use a nickel alloy wire and let it cool slowly

 

[Andres629]

I have an easy solution to rust

This. I like your thinking.

 

[farmer]

Boggin- I know right! It needs to be regeared bad. 3.55s and 33 and a 2.9 is going to suck.

The broken manifold was replaced with a nice used one.

And thanks andres, I hope this thing ends up as badass as your b2

 

[Andres629]

Luckily for you it is easier to cut your rear fenders. It'll get there, man! I'll be putting in my $0.02 the whole way.

 

[farmer]

yeah well the rear fenders are shot! and the floor pan in sheet metal and self tappers
part of me says leave the front fenders, and ditch the bed for a tube bed, but thats a whole lotta ambition. and i want to wheel it now
now do i spend the money to regear the axles, or go pick up some early bronc axles? ohhh the possibilities...

 

[Andres629]

Here's my $0.02 right off the bat...

Skip EB axles. Low pinion up front is not awesome. Go right to a high pinion full-width. Not only do you get high pinion, but you also get the stability of full-width.

Is that a 31 or 28 spline 8.8 in yours? I'd venture a guess and say 31 as it is a 2.9 truck (I think...) and the 8.8 wasn't from factory. I'd keep the 8.8 out back. But front all depends on what size tire you plan on running. The 35 will be good for pretty much up to a 35" tire. Beyond that, you're really pushing it. If all you ever plan on running is a 35, then keep the D35, regear with long arms and there you go, perfectly capable rig!

 

[farmer]

I see what you're saying. No sense wasting money on low pinion.
It's a 2.9 truck with factory 8.8. I assume it's a 28 spline, but I'm not positive.
Who here has some gears they want to sell cheap? :lol: