FM146 to M5OD swap

[LIMA BEAN]

Not to hijack but this is a well oiled and informative thread for this person. Well done you guys, TRS members are first rate folks.

 

[AllanD]

the fm146 is the same length as a m5od, now if it was the fm145 you'd need to move the tranny crossmember a bit forward

Actually going from an FM145 to a mazda or FM146 you'd need to move the transmission crossmember BACK (the the rear set of holes already here for the A4LD)

And on 2wd trucks or those with electric shift T-cases the shift boot is the same.

the boot for a mazda and the FM146 are however completely different for trucks equiped with a manual transfer case

Alsothe T-case shifter MIGHT NOT be compatible.

AD

 

[cubewhiz]

I started the swap today. I removed the driveshafts and pulled the t-case. Tomorrow I will pull the transmission and start replacing clutch components.

 

[adsm08]

Cool. Take lots of pics for us.

 

[cubewhiz]

Okay, I made a little more progress but ran into some problems. Please help!

* I was able to disconnect and remove the 2.9 starter
* I was able to remove the shifter knob and boot
* I was able to remove the two bolts on the both sides of the Y-pipe, freeing it up from the engine. It didn't gain me much room, but I suppose it will come in handy.

---

1) How does the shifter come off? I noticed four torx screws beneath the shifter. I was able to remove three of them, but the fourth is stripped. Does the shifter come off after I remove that piece or is there another way? Is removing the shifter necessary?

2) The "quick disconnect" of the hydraulic clutch is anything but. Even with the QD tool, that thing will not even budge. Any advice here? I'm about ready to just cut the line and replace the M/C. :/

3) How many bolts hold the bellhousing to the motor? I found two of them (at about 3 & 9 o'clock) that were 13mm. Are there more above these two? They're a bit awkward to get at...not really enough room for a ratchet...and they're on there pretty damn good. Breaker bar perhaps?

Thanks in advance.

 

[adsm08]

1) Yes, you gotta get that 4th bolt out. Get a die grinder and cut a notch for a screw driver in it.

2) Cut the line if you have to. Lines are available, but with as old as your truck it, a new MC might not be a terrible idea.

3) There are about 5 or 6 bolts I think. 11, 1, 3, 4, 9. A pic of the bell to come if I have one. The way I like to get at the top two is to get a ratcheting wrench with either an offset (angled) or flex head and take them out from up top. I kneel on the core support and lay across the engine.

EDIT:

That is the best pic I have of the bell, and I can't dig that trans out by myself to get a better one right now and have no one to help ATM.

That one hole that you can see way down at the bottom of the pic should be the upper starter bolt.

 

[4x4junkie]

On the clutch QD, you have to force that white plastic collar ring ALL THE WAY IN to where it's no longer visible. Anything less than that and it will not come apart.

Yes, 6 bell bolts, plus one or two tiny little ones at the bottom of the block plate.

 

[cubewhiz]

UPDATE:

* I got the 4th torx screw out using a "bolt-out" and a hand impact ratchet. Smashed the bolt-out onto the screw and used a 3/4" wrench to unscrew it. It was cool. The shifter followed pretty easily.

* I think I may end up replacing the M/C anyway, though neither AutoZone, Advance, or NAPA have it in stock according to their websites. :/ Does anybody have a picture of how the M/C is connected to the clutch pedal? I looked at it briefly and couldn't really determine how it disconnects.

Can the M/C be replaced without removing anything else? i.e. - if I need to wait for somebody to order it, can I proceed with everything else and just install the M/C when it arrives?

* I will remove the bellhousing bolts tomorrow. That (with the crossmember) should allow the transmission to come down. I think this is what I have left to do:

1) Remove bellhousing bolts.
2) Remove clutch line (perhaps I will just remove the entire m/c instead and drop everything)
3) Support transmission & remove crossmember.
4) Drop transmission and remove.
5) Remove clutch components.
6) Reinstall everything in reverse.

I'm hoping this will just take another 2 days. f

Thanks.

 

[cubewhiz]

On the clutch QD, you have to force that white plastic collar ring ALL THE WAY IN to where it's no longer visible. Anything less than that and it will not come apart.

Yes, 6 bell bolts, plus one or two tiny little ones at the bottom of the block plate.

So the piece on the line should be pressed inward? Is it possible mine has been pulled too far out and needs to be pressed back in and that is why it is not releasing?

Is it the piece connected to the black hydraulic line that needs to be forced in? (Ignore the circle, it's an image from the tech library)

 

[adsm08]

Yes, that white collar needs to go IN towards the trans. If you just push it in hard with some screw drivers, I've had success with that method before.

Yes the MC can come out alone. If you want to replace it and you order it now then you should have it before you are done. I ordered mine in-store at about 6 pm and it was in by 6 the next day.

As for step 4, it will probably look more like "Drop trans and wrestle out".

During that step be careful if you have the truck on jack stands. I had mine securely supported on 4 stands the last time I did this and I managed to knock the truck off both stands because I was rocking the trans around so hard.

 

[cubewhiz]

Yes, that white collar needs to go IN towards the trans. If you just push it in hard with some screw drivers, I've had success with that method before.

Hrmm, I'll give that a try. The M5OD seems pretty light, probably less than 100 lbs. Is the FM146 similar? For the T/C, I just pulled it out and lowered it onto my chest. Would I be able to do the same with the tranny?

I have a Muncie 465 sitting on my bench in the garage. It's only about 12 inches long, but it weighs about 175 lbs dry. It made the M5OD a joy to carry over to the truck.

 

[cubewhiz]

UPDATE:

* I couldn't get the fitting on the clutch slave to budge, so I got annoyed enough to just cut the line. I ordered a new master cylinder, $55 at Advance Auto, but it will take three days to get it. I hope by that they mean Saturday and not Tuesday. I also hope it will come with a new hose from M/C to the slave. Can anybody confirm this or should I start looking for one?

* Apparently my bellhousing was only held to my engine by THREE bolts, at 9, 11, and 3 o'clock. I suppose this means I am missing three bolts? That's what I get for taking my truck to Meineke for a clutch replacement.

* The transmission is now out of the truck and in the back of the driveway.

* I removed the floor plate. It was easy to work out with the transmission gone. Does anybody have a picture of the proper orientation of the M5OD floor pan? I think it will be much easier to put in without the trans in the way.

Hoping to finish up tomorrow by replacing clutch components and putting the new trans & starter in.

 

[cubewhiz]

UPDATE:

* I took the clutch off today. I learned a neat little trick about removing the flywheel. By putting a breaker bar on the pulley on the front of the engine and against the frame, the flywheel bolts were a piece of cake (sort of).

* I replaced the slave cylinder on my M5OD.

* I installed the 4.0 starter plate, flywheel, and clutch.

Tomorrow: Install transmission and starter.

YAY!

 

[adsm08]

Yay. Keep up the good work man.

 

[cubewhiz]

I assume the thick wire that went to the 2.9 starter will go to where the large wire was on the 4.0 starter. Is there an existing wire for the small wire to splice into or do I need to fabricate a brand new wire? Where on the 2.9 solenoid (I guess that's what that thing behind my battery is?) does it attach? Thanks.