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Throwing a P1401 code


98RangerXLT

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
19
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Manual
I recently bought a used 98 4x4 XLT with 89k on it, rebuilt title ( front end damage ) and was running fine ( I was/have been using it to pull a trailer back and forth cause we were moving) and it started to "buck" like i was driving in a higher gear at low RPMS', I was doing about 30 in 3rd and it was bucking so I DS'd to 2nd and was fine.I just shook it off as whatever.

Over the weekend it became worse.

When the truck was cold it ran fine but after 15 mins or so it felt like I was riding on bad/knobby tires, very rough ride, felt like I had no power and the contiuning bucking when in a higher gear and moderate rpms/speed.

so I took it to Advnace and they ran the cels and it threw a P1401 and he told me it was something like blah blah blah Electrical Solenoid in my transmission???

He told me to take it to his buddy down the road who was a tranny man..yeah.. I sure will...

Wel I got online today and pulled the info and a P1401 for a ranger is a DPFE sensor...Is this in the tranny? from what I've read its an EGR sensor.

I searched here and found similar symptoms, buckin under load or going up a hill, rough idle, bad ride. But was wondering if anyone might can give more insight.

Thanks
 
Yep, failed DPFE sensors are a common problem with 3.0's. The DPFE is bolted to the front of the intake manifold - it's small and rectangular in shape and has two vacuum hoses and a plug with two or three wires connected to it.
 
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Its on the drivers side of the upper intake, back towards the firewall.

ford_dpfe_sensor_1.jpg
 
""Its on the drivers side of the upper intake, back towards the firewall.""

On the late model 3.0 Rangers that I've seen, including my own '00, the DPFE is located on the front of the intake manifold.

On the 4.0 Rangers that I've seen, the DPFE is located towards the rear.
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the info, does it sound like the symptoms of this problem?

Would you recommend getting the plastic or the metal one?

Thanks again
 
I got one of the plastic ones about 7 years ago and it hasn't failed yet.

Link
 
""Its on the drivers side of the upper intake, back towards the firewall.""

On the late model 3.0 Rangers that I've seen, including my own '00, the DPFE is located on the front of the intake manifold.

On the 4.0 Rangers that I've seen, the DPFE is located towards the rear.


Hmm, that is where it is located on my 97 3.0L. Maybe they changed it in 98.
 
Well little update, I got the nre DPFE sensor, oput it on and the problem went away..for about 30 mins,

Also the sensor was right in front of the Manifold. easy to get to and change.


It seems to take longer for the issue reocurr. I think I'm on the right track here, but I'm not throwing anymore codes and my MPG dont seem to be affected as much..Any ideas?
 
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Check your spark plugs and the EGR valve?? i had the same code replaced the sensor cause it was making that clicking sound, new sparks and this have helped a bit about 1-2 mpgs better so running at 12 or so mpg. Everyone says its Carbon build up in the egr valve causing it not to close all the way my problem is i cant get the damned bolts to come off
 
I was doing about 30 in 3rd and it was bucking so I DS'd to 2nd and was fine. I got the nre DPFE sensor, oput it on and the problem went away..for about 30 mins,

Symptoms like yours could be fuel starvation which shows up under high(er) load (more gas/uphill/higher gear) or bad coil that misses when hot and will be worse under load. Does it idle OK when hot?
 
Yeah, the idle is fine, maybe a little miss but not consistent, the rpms dont drop below 1k, the idle is good.

I am going to clean the MAF sensor today and see what she does, then go from there.
 
Another update, I cleaned the MAF sensor and tried to get the EGR valve off to no avail, i was able to seperate it from the manifold, so I tried to clean it the best i can.

The problem still exists. I'm guessing maybe a vacum leak somewhere, though I'm not sure where to start at to find it.

Is there anything else I can look at. I will be changing the plugs and wires and coil packs soon.
 
Another update.

The truck is still running bad and and friend and I decided to check for vaccum leaks, we took a can of starter fluid and sprayed around the manifold gasket, egr, MAF, airbox and tubing and didnt get any surge in idle...

Where else could I check?

Would a bad Coil pack cause this after it gets hot?

Any idea if the radiator could cause this?
 
Given the age and history I'd change the fuel filter as that being plugged can cause fuel starvation. If that solves it then I'd cut the old one apart to see what was blocking it as it may be crude in your tank.

Does this have a single coil for all six plugs? Only way to tell if bad coil when hot would be to spray it with CO2 to cool it then drive immediately to see if problem stops for short time, but that may not even work too well.
 
I think it is one coil pack,right on the top to the left of the manifold. any idead where the ol FF might be located at?
 

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