These last couple make me think of the time I took my '89 Eddie Bauer Bronco II in for a "safety check" (basically an inspection without the sticker) when I was fixing the truck up. I knew what was wrong with it and asked to be in the shop while the tech looked it over so I could go over the truck with him and then I'd know what was all in need of repair so I could do it.
The guy pulls it in and throws it up on the lift and gets started: (I tried to be polite, unless otherwise noted, what's in parenthesis is what I thought, not what I said)
Peeks in the adjuster hole on the backing plate of the drums "yea, you're gonna need new rear brakes. (no, they were only half worn)
You have to replace all the ebrake cables, they're too rusty. (I told him they stick and that I was going to replace the cable, I had the new cable in the back of the BII)
You have too much rubber fuel line, you're only allowed to have 4' and you have 7' on here, you'll have to get some metal line and replace it. (WTF!)
You have a transmission leak that you need to get fixed. (yep, the typical A4LD dribble off the pan, I'll make a go at fixing it when I get my new filter and gasket, lol)
Rear driveshaft U-joints are bad, you'll have to replace them. (Uhh... can we say CV joint? lol)
Oh, front brakes are junk, you'll have to replace the pads and the rotors, maybe the calipers too. (I had to bite my tongue... hard.... BRAND NEW rotors with new pads - just dirty from the ride though winter slop to get to the shop)
You got a bad front lower balljoint on the passenger side. (I'll concede this point, it was visibly bad)
Engine is too dirty, you need to steam clean it. (Huh? Since when is THAT part of the inspection??)
He listed about a dozen other things that I forget exactly what they were, but they were identically stupid.
I then proceeded to ask what they'd want to replace the balljoints... just the upper and lower passenger side. He goes an looks in a book, plays with a calculator, talks with the boss, plays with the calculator some more and then proceeds to tell me with a straight face that if I can bring the parts, they can do it for $470 in labor because it will take them 6.5 hours to do it according to their book because they have to pull the front diff out to get the C-clip off the axle, so they have to pull the entire front axle apart to do the balljoints and then reset the gears when they put it back together.
I said "uhh... there's a slip-joint on the passenger side shaft, there's no need to do any of that other stuff."
He insisted that I was wrong and the book was right. I took my keys and left, lol. I did all FOUR front balljoints on a Saturday at a junkyard where I was friends with the owner. Did the work outside and pressed the joints in on a hydro shop press, lol. Took me around 4 hours and I had never done such a thing before. The hardest part proved to be tightening the castle nut on the last one, it just wanted to spin the stud. And I didn't have to pull the diff at all.