1998 & Newer specific Ranger problems.....

[grey]

I have an '08 and all my problems have been pretty minor...
The AC is noisy on engagement(seems to be normal)
The rear doors take a bit of force to latch properly(doesnt really matter, i only use them maybe twice a month)
Every once in a while it doesn't start on the first crank(has happened 3 times...at random, never happens at the dealership)

Other than those issues I haven't had anything blow up yet at 28000km.
Shes not even broke in yet

 

[kshack11]

my auto locking hubs on my 98 suck, i cant get it to engage so i think ill have get manual locking.

 

[spatsumbri]

my auto locking hubs on my 98 suck, i cant get it to engage so i think ill have get manual locking.

The truck sits alot more than its driven. Lately it has been getting gas in the oil. I checked it and it was half way up the dipstick?? So I changed the oil and now it is running rough and it just falls on its face when I try to accelerate? Recently I have replaced the coil pack, ignition box, and the throttle position sensor. I tried to post a new thread and it wont let me in this general discussion area??? Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks, Brock

 

[bottomshot]

2001 2.5

-door locks sticking
-interior light demons (both glove box and dome light have given me problems)
-very squeaky front suspension (ball joints maybe)
-oil pressure communicator died at about 37k miles. this causes my oil pressure gauge to think i have no oil pressure until the engine warms up, at which point the pressure reading spikes up to accurate levels. kind of weird and never bothered replacing.
-rack & pinion is going

the truck's got 85k on it and has never given me any real problems

*edit* thought of one more-
-the clearcoat ont he truck is peeling and completely trashed. it's only 8 years old. this, in my opinion, constitutes it being defective.

 

[Shadow Death]

Where to start?

1999 2.5L

- Passenger side window will not roll down (motor rivets coming loose, been like that since 51k)
- "Phantom Whipers"
- Seems to have a minor lope in 4th gear on hot days.
- Can't keep spark plugs past 10K - 20K miles without melting the electrodes, not even specified Motocraft plugs.
- Almost always has a misfire with no codes thrown.
- Rear ABS sensor dies suddenly and stops sending speed information to the Speed-O (1999 specific problem)
- Almost impossible to find a T-stat that fits at any parts store except for the Dealership.
- Driver side door lock switch stopped working. (stopped after I left the window down and it rained, it works when it's wet though.)
- Driver side door lock will barely push the lock open then fall back into the lock position. (this is a 50-50 shot).
- The key will not unlock the door on the driver side, but it will on the passenger side after playing with it a bit.
- Shifter knob pops off in the middle of shifting, finally split in half.
- Annoying rattle from the rear sliding window.
- 4th gear is entirely too tall in comparison to 3rd. (5 speed manual)


I won't add this to the list but TWICE just twice, the headlights shut off while I was driving. Then came back on, no warning nothing. Not even a flicker, I reached for the knob both times and before I could touch it, they came back on. That was earlier this year, no problems like that since.

 

[RacinNdrummin]

My last truck was 1999 2wd 2.5 supercab, 5 speed XLT, manual everything....

I owned it from 60k-130k....

-Phantom wipers
-Bad Alternator
-Timing belt broke

Otherwise it was a goodtruck....

My current truck is a 2005 2wd supercab 3.0 5 speed BASE model XL, only option is AC...

I have owned it since it was new, and have put 99k on it...

-Inertia switch
-Fuel pump check valve?? (yet to diagnose, it take about 10 seconds of turning over, or 3 key switches to fire up)

Otherwise not one problem with it....

 

[babytruck]

The timing chain cover leaking anti-freeze at the block.

 

[jfisher]

No real problems out of mine yet, but a while ago I also had the weird no start until the 3rd or 4th crank. It stumbled and died the first two times then fired right up on the next crank and has run perfectly fine ever since.

Anytime I engage cruise control, I can hear a nice grinding noise behind my cluster. It goes off immediately as soon as the cruise is turned off.

The blower fan (I'm assuming that's what it is) behind the glovebox can be noisy at times.

 

[Nl_jester]

I've had trouble with the rear brakes & it seems like I've seen a few other posts mentioning similar problems.

Yes sir a few minnor problems with the rear drums the self adjusters get to tight and break, if you do your own brake work its an easy fix just leave them off and check the adjusters a few times a month, went though two sets of shoes and hardware kits before I figured this one out and no troubles scence

 

[ShiftRacing]

Personally, I've experienced mostly electrical issues with mine...

- O/D Light Flashing On & Off
- Ignition Parts Fail Constantly
- Rear Work Light Doesn't Go On When Door Is Opened
- Door Ajar Switches
- The Chime I Desoldered From The Board, I Don't Know Why It Always Went Off
- Etc...

 

[crusin93]

I've dirven my 87' 4x4 2.9L for years with very few issues, other than general maintence. I recently purchased a 1998 4.0 4x4 with a few of the problems mentioned in this thread. I would love to learn more about the "Gem" module as the 4wd hi works fine however, I get no indicator light or acuation when switching to 4 low. I also noticed that the HVAC blower motor only works on the hi setting. I assumed a replacement blower motor would remedy the problem. Further reading of this post raises questions about a heater resistor? What's that and whats it's function? I'm not tagging or insuring the 98' until it's as good or better than it came from ford, so this "special attention" to 98' up rangers is great! Glad I have another Ranger to tinker with!

 

[bigcountry2403]

Vibration from the rear end at speeds over 65MPH. Actually seems more like a buzzing sensation in your @$$ and in the gear selector. Tires and wheels are new, true and balanced. No one can seem to figure it out. U-joints apear to be in good condition and the bearings are good. If anyone else has this problem let me know.

Ya is it 4x4 cause we had to change the drive shaft to fix

 

[Fargo Wolf]

Here's the list on my 04 Ranger:

Takes forever to start if there's less than 3/4 tank of gas
Hard to get the truck moving from my parking spot. (Major clunk, the truck jerks free. Usually when it's fairly cold out. Had to put it into Low Range on a couple of occasions)
Pressure leak somewhere causing the "Check Engine" light to come on. Mechanic at local Ford Dealership told me not to worry about it. (Hasn't been a problem thanks to the cooler weather)
Needs a wheel alignment and new ball joints. (Will be taking the truck in before too long)

 

[Bob58]

Problem with my 1999 Ford Ranger

I have a 1999 Ford Ranger, it is a 2.5L 4 cylinder, automatic trans. The problem is that after I fill it up with gas or when I stop and turn the vehicle off for 5 or 10 minutes after it is warmed up, then start it and drive, it seems like it is not getting any gas and wants to stall, I have to let up on the pedal and play around with it for several minutes before it stops. I have had it to 3 service stations, including Ford, and they replaced the IAC, Throttle position sensors and it still does this. When I drive it without stopping and turning it off, it seems to be fine.

Thanks for your time
Bob58

 

[JimJa1943]

My '05 Problems

'05, 44,000 miles, 4x4, 4.0L, 5sp manual, 4-dr. L/S w/3.73 gears.

I've had...humm...let's see...nope, none, zip, nada.

Just change oil/filter and inspect a couple of times a year and every three years change anti-freeze and flush brake fluid. Otherwise that's it.

Recent new tires. Alignment checked ATT. Tech said to watch lower ball joints. They are a weak link beginning at about 80,000 miles.