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Speakers, door and dash.


SCRAPINRANGER302, be careful around here saying the cap word, your much better off upgrading your alternator and battery. Because after your cap had discharged, your alternator now has to power your amp AND recharge your cap putting an even bigger load on your alt.
 
Yeah, but your cap should never fully discharge should it? I mean, I don't know much, but it seems like if you cap is fully discharging you probably need to upgrade to a higher capacity capacitor. Or is my thinking incorrect somewhere?
 
Yeah, but your cap should never fully discharge should it? I mean, I don't know much, but it seems like if you cap is fully discharging you probably need to upgrade to a higher capacity capacitor. Or is my thinking incorrect somewhere?

Nope you're right it shouldn't ever fully discharge, if it does you got problems. I used to run a .5 farad in my old car with 850 watts RMS and never had any problems. I currently am working on a box to put one 12" Alpine type E in my truck and am planning on running the same set up, just a lot less power.

Several guys I know that run SPL and sound circuits say the general rule of thumb is .5 farads per 500 watts, only really need the cap on your sub amps. seems to have worked really well for me in the past.
 
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Quick off subject question if I may, I just bought a used Kenwood KSC-wd250 for 40 bucks off of craigslist. I don't know much about car audio as I stated before. For something this small though (100 rms and 200 max), I shouldn't need a cap should I? Also, I can't seem to get my deck out for some reason (can't seem to get the keys in because I am an idiot of some sort), is there anywhere else I can pull power from that would be ok? I have signal to it from the 2 rear speakers as it states I can do in the manual I found for it on the Kenwood site and the ground I ran to the seat belt bolts. That and power should be all I need right? Thanks, and sorry to go of-topic real quick.
 
If you need a cap for 500W you have underlying problems. I'm running over 1000W RMS, and at 100% HU volume, my voltage does not move, and I'll NEVER run a cap.
 
If you need a cap for 500W you have underlying problems. I'm running over 1000W RMS, and at 100% HU volume, my voltage does not move, and I'll NEVER run a cap.

your speakers can handle 100% HU volume?


i'm not sure what 100% is on mine, but i go up to about 25 and that's pretty much max.
 
ppfftt ive hit the 62 mark on my stereo more than once. its not that loud. thats why i want new components coaxials an amp and hu
 
ppfftt ive hit the 62 mark on my stereo more than once. its not that loud. thats why i want new components coaxials an amp and hu

jeeze man haha... depending on the EQ settings, my dash speakers start distorting around 25 depending on the song also.... but they are plenty loud for me around 20-23... so that's all fine with me hah.
 
If you need a cap for 500W you have underlying problems. I'm running over 1000W RMS, and at 100% HU volume, my voltage does not move, and I'll NEVER run a cap.

im not too sure i buy that..im runnin bout 1600rms and on some songs, if i turn the gain up on my line driver, i can get into 10volts...but thats with stock batt and alt. but i do also have two 1 farad caps
 
im not too sure i buy that..im runnin bout 1600rms and on some songs, if i turn the gain up on my line driver, i can get into 10volts...but thats with stock batt and alt. but i do also have two 1 farad caps

I'm running a red-top, and a 130A alt. 4 gauge wire kit into a 1-2x2 splitter. Idling the truck, from 0 to full volume(62 on my deck) I get all of a .2V drop.
BUT again I am tuned for SQ not SPL, I barely ever feel my sub (even with it getting almost double the recommended RMS) and at full volume i don't have to wear hearing protection in my truck.

If you or anyone is playing with gains you have an ID-10T problem (I'm sorry but I am very strong believer in setting and leaving, you have an easy to reach volume knob for a reason)
 
the size of the driver doesnt make a one sub tighter or punchier and another boomier. it all comes down to what the driver was designed for. a 15" driver can still be as accurate as a 8". its just that the 15" wont be able to play as high as the 8", but it will be able to play lower frequencies that the 8" cant even dream of. there are other factors that determine how the sub will sound.

for example, look at Fi Audio's lineup. Their FiQ series is built for sound quality.
https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficarau...0_Speakers/0030_Q/product_overview.shopscript

then they the BTL series that are built for SPL.
https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficarau...Speakers/0010_BTL/product_overview.shopscript

also the box has a lot to do with the way its gonna sound,sealed boxes are tight and crisp while ported and bandpass are loud,boomy,and rattle a lot more
 
also the box has a lot to do with the way its gonna sound,sealed boxes are tight and crisp while ported and bandpass are loud,boomy,and rattle a lot more

AGAIN, it still comes down to the way the driver was designed. ported boxes arent boomy and rattle a lot. if its boomy, then it wasnt designed properly. if designed properly, the box design allows for certain frequencies to be played louder. and if your car is rattling then you need to spend a good weekend tracking them all down.
 
don't go with any sony equipment, sorry sony fans, head units you can't really go wrong though.... most of them are pretty equivalent, but i'd say pioneer, kenwood, etc are all good brands.

You've got a good point. I had an old neon that was all Sony equipment. Sony Head Unit, speakers and Sub. Speakers weren't bad (for less then 100 dollars for 2 6x9s), Sub was terrible. I love Sony's Head Units though. But with the Ranger I will definitely be going with different brand speakers, and probably a JBL woofer. Already got the new Sony head unit in :headbang: Just my .02 for Sony gear
 
Looks like I'm going memphis on speakers....... got a great deal on 4 of them.

And I'm tossing around head units, but it will be a flip down, be looking for my full truck build in the next couple weeks.

Frank
 

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