Finally Finished!!!

[baxtej44]

Yes.
Yes, you'll have to slip it on the pipe, and measure how much you'll need to shorten the pipe, oh and make sure you use an adhesive to mate the two parts together when you are ready to install.

so buy like 2 feet of 3" diameter pvc pipe, slip the female part on, trace a line and then cut slightly less than at the line?

what kind of adhesive should i look for? a plumbers adhesive or something? i assume if i can find somebody at home depot or lowe's that knows the female and male parts that i need, they will know what kind of adhesive.. but i'm asking here just in case lol.





also to the a-5, how much mdf total is that box? i will be basically making the exact same box i think.



also to anyone, does it matter which pieces of mdf is going to be on the outside of the box?
like which pieces should be attached last and what not? i've heard that the front and the back should be the last two pieces to get screwed and glued down.

 

[flyingbrick]

so buy like 2 feet of 3" diameter pvc pipe, slip the female part on, trace a line and then cut slightly less than at the line?

what kind of adhesive should i look for? a plumbers adhesive or something? i assume if i can find somebody at home depot or lowe's that knows the female and male parts that i need, they will know what kind of adhesive.. but i'm asking here just in case lol.

also to the a-5, how much mdf total is that box? i will be basically making the exact same box i think.

also to anyone, does it matter which pieces of mdf is going to be on the outside of the box?
like which pieces should be attached last and what not? i've heard that the front and the back should be the last two pieces to get screwed and glued down.

After you slip on the female end, as far as it will go, you want to measure(on the inside of the part) from the outside lip, to the edge of the pipe, you'll get something like 1 1/8 of an inch, take that number subtract from the total lenge of pipe. and your set.
For adhesives, you could use almost any kind that is good for plastic, you
don't have to buy PVC glue if your only doing one joint.

The other option is find a plumber in town, he should have everything in stock, give him the measurements (overall length) and have him cut it and glue it together.

For MDF if you have a garage/shed you can keep it dry in, get a full sheet(4x8 it's cheaper too) that way you have a lot of "oops" room, but if your sure of your cuts just a half sheet.

 

[baxtej44]

After you slip on the female end, as far as it will go, you want to measure(on the inside of the part) from the outside lip, to the edge of the pipe, you'll get something like 1 1/8 of an inch, take that number subtract from the total lenge of pipe. and your set.
For adhesives, you could use almost any kind that is good for plastic, you
don't have to buy PVC glue if your only doing one joint.

The other option is find a plumber in town, he should have everything in stock, give him the measurements (overall length) and have him cut it and glue it together.

For MDF if you have a garage/shed you can keep it dry in, get a full sheet(4x8 it's cheaper too) that way you have a lot of "oops" room, but if your sure of your cuts just a half sheet.

might sound stupid, but what holds the port tube in the box? or is it just sitting in there?

i'll definitely end up getting a full sheet, and hopefully i won't end up having to buy more lol. i can store it in my basement off the floor and it will stay dry.


does it matter which pieces go on last on the box? (like front and back on last, etc etc)?

 

[flyingbrick]

might sound stupid, but what holds the port tube in the box? or is it just sitting in there?

does it matter which pieces go on last on the box? (like front and back on last, etc etc)?

I'm not going to lie, I've never done a round port, but if I was I'd cut my hole as tight as I can get it to the point your using a block of wood and a hammer to tap it in, and then use something like PL-Premium on the inside, to ring around the port sealing it and mating it to the box.
I'd also run a brace from the box to the port to support the middle/end of it.

first and last peaces don't matter, go what you think will be the easiest for you.

 

[crazywhiteboy]

just wondering cuz ive never done it, but why a round port? why not a slot port?
out of all the enclosures ive heard and built, imo i think slot ports sound better when done right, but then again ive never built something with a round port

 

[flyingbrick]

Some subs sound better with a round port, but I am too tired right now to remember what’s what on that, but in this case the manufacturer calls for a round port.

 

[baxtej44]

I'm not going to lie, I've never done a round port, but if I was I'd cut my hole as tight as I can get it to the point your using a block of wood and a hammer to tap it in, and then use something like PL-Premium on the inside, to ring around the port sealing it and mating it to the box.
I'd also run a brace from the box to the port to support the middle/end of it.

first and last peaces don't matter, go what you think will be the easiest for you.

so try and do like a 2 15/16 circle? this could get tricky lol. especially cuz i think it's gonna be a jigsaw cut maybe? dk...

yeah i will use a silicon sealant on all inside seams and on the outside of the port. do i need sealant on the outside seams too? or maybe just wood glue over all the screw heads and seals? and just spread it out with a puddy knife.

the manufacturer calls for a round port.

x2... how do you like the sub dude? i can't wait to hook it up..

 

[a-5 freak]

Buy a whole 4x8 sheet of mdf (26.76 at my local home depot) and store it in your home if at all possible. Here in florida, mdf warps easily outside due to the heat and moisture. I have actually built 2 boxes, and 1 was a complete failure. I still have a bit of mdf left.

When it comes to puting the boards together, USE POWER GRAB!!! it's awesome stuff and stronger than wood glue. Then use an air powered staple gun with 1-1/2" staples. run a bead of powergrab along the outside seams and use your FINGER to push the stuff into the seams.

The best order with this box I could think of was:

Attach the 2 sides to the back,
attach top,
then face,
then bottom.

The bottom is actually kinda fun to put in on this box because it just slides in like a final piece of
the puzzle.

I used powergrab as kind of a caulking. I pressed the powergrab in between the joint were there may have been a gap. Just caulk the crap outta everything. Dont be afraid to go over.

The sub is a BEAST!!!! Even unported, I can't hear myself think with the volume at 44. That's with bass turned all the way up though. I need to go and get a cap (I know it's a bandaid) because my poor alternator can't handle it. I knocked over a half full glass of water clean off my roof last night with it. And yes, it is fully broken in.

It is a bit rediculous to play bass that loud. It is nice and smooth bass when you tune it right though, and that is usually how I play it. I hate it when kids around here go around with their "awesome subs" and they are blaring rap for the whole community to hear.

 

[baxtej44]

Buy a whole 4x8 sheet of mdf (26.76 at my local home depot) and store it in your home if at all possible. Here in florida, mdf warps easily outside due to the heat and moisture. I have actually built 2 boxes, and 1 was a complete failure. I still have a bit of mdf left.

When it comes to puting the boards together, USE POWER GRAB!!! it's awesome stuff and stronger than wood glue. Then use an air powered staple gun with 1-1/2" staples. run a bead of powergrab along the outside seams and use your FINGER to push the stuff into the seams.

The best order with this box I could think of was:

Attach the 2 sides to the back,
attach top,
then face,
then bottom.

The bottom is actually kinda fun to put in on this box because it just slides in like a final piece of
the puzzle.

I used powergrab as kind of a caulking. I pressed the powergrab in between the joint were there may have been a gap. Just caulk the crap outta everything. Dont be afraid to go over.

The sub is a BEAST!!!! Even unported, I can't hear myself think with the volume at 44. That's with bass turned all the way up though. I need to go and get a cap (I know it's a bandaid) because my poor alternator can't handle it. I knocked over a half full glass of water clean off my roof last night with it. And yes, it is fully broken in.

It is a bit rediculous to play bass that loud. It is nice and smooth bass when you tune it right though, and that is usually how I play it. I hate it when kids around here go around with their "awesome subs" and they are blaring rap for the whole community to hear.

thanks for the tips.... will see what the home store reccomends for holding wood together that will be resisting flexing alot.

going to be using 1" long screws, unless we think thats too long? but i'm going to have 3/4" mdf... so i think it's good enough... going to do a screw every like 2 inches?

well i've really, almost over planned this whole event... so hopefully it should turn out great. especially with my amp, that is actually overpowering the sub, so i will have the gains turned way down (but this way I can upgrade the sub without upgrading the amp later on if I want to)

should get my amp wiring kit in the mail this week (possibly today i can't remember), and me and a buddy of mine are going to build the box this week as well.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

thanks for the tips.... will see what the home store reccomends for holding wood together that will be resisting flexing alot.

going to be using 1" long screws, unless we think thats too long? but i'm going to have 3/4" mdf... so i think it's good enough... going to do a screw every like 2 inches?

well i've really, almost over planned this whole event... so hopefully it should turn out great. especially with my amp, that is actually overpowering the sub, so i will have the gains turned way down (but this way I can upgrade the sub without upgrading the amp later on if I want to)

should get my amp wiring kit in the mail this week (possibly today i can't remember), and me and a buddy of mine are going to build the box this week as well.

i predrilled and used 2'' long screws in mine. what i did was use tightbong ultimate wood glue on all the joints. then put them together using 2' brads. then every 4'' i sunk a screw. then just before putting the face on, i used pl premium on all the inside joints. then i put the face on, and when i cout the whole for the woofer. i just used the pl on the last seams. i spread it all with my finger and make sure to get it squished in there good. the i used some body filler, (us body guys ya know) sanded it smooth, then used a texture paint on it. i recommend herculiner. duplicolor and rustoleum redliner is too smooth and wont hide much. herculiner has a nice grain to it. but i didnt use herculiner on mine. i went the poor mans route. i had some krylon black enamel on the shelf and just mixed sand into, then i rolled it on. thick crap but looks good. lol

 

[flyingbrick]

thanks for the tips.... will see what the home store reccomends for holding wood together that will be resisting flexing alot.

going to be using 1" long screws, unless we think thats too long? but i'm going to have 3/4" mdf... so i think it's good enough... going to do a screw every like 2 inches?

well i've really, almost over planned this whole event... so hopefully it should turn out great. especially with my amp, that is actually overpowering the sub, so i will have the gains turned way down (but this way I can upgrade the sub without upgrading the amp later on if I want to)

should get my amp wiring kit in the mail this week (possibly today i can't remember), and me and a buddy of mine are going to build the box this week as well.

I Just use wood glue, can't remember what brand does not matter.
I always use 1.5" drywall screws, if your using wood glue, you can go every 3"other wise I just go by eye. And if you don't have a countersink bit BUY ONE!, after years of just using a bigger drill bit i bought one and there worth it.
What amp are you running again? Either way your not over powering it, Mine is being fed by an "800W RMS"amp, I used quotations cause I think it's closer to 600W

 

[baxtej44]

I Just use wood glue, can't remember what brand does not matter.
I always use 1.5" drywall screws, if your using wood glue, you can go every 3"other wise I just go by eye. And if you don't have a countersink bit BUY ONE!, after years of just using a bigger drill bit i bought one and there worth it.
What amp are you running again? Either way your not over powering it, Mine is being fed by an "800W RMS"amp, I used quotations cause I think it's closer to 600W

i'm running the Pioneer Premier PRS-D1100M

it's rated at 400w at 4 ohms, and my sub is nominal 350w, so i just have to lower the gains a bit correct?

 

[flyingbrick]

Yeah that's fine, keep your gains as lows as you can, and you'll be more then OK.

 

[baxtej44]

Yeah that's fine, keep your gains as lows as you can, and you'll be more then OK.

are "gains" just what controls how much sound goes to the sub?
how many electrons are allowed through or whatever?