97 Ranger 2wd Leveling project

[Tractor Dan]

Ok. So i scored a set of rims, 15 inchers for 60 bucks today. They are stock ford rims. I swung by the tire shop on the way home and the guy there showed me a tire size (30X9.5X15) i like that will give my Ranger enough lift to look good without needing a step ladder to get in. lol. So what i'm trying to figure out, what is the best leveling kit to go with? I'm trying to keep this cheap and like under 100 dollars on that part. I'm trying to go cheap so i can pay for some of this so my parents aren't saddled with it. I have looked at a couple kits though i don't know what is good and what is bad.

I'm kindof leaning to one of these two here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...Track=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:middle:us

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=260347236576

I'm assuming with thoose i won't have to have longer shocks, i'll just basically be maxing out the stock suspension height?

Also how hard is it to get the spring off to put these on? I plan on doing the front shocks so i figured do these at the same time. I figure if i can do the shocks i can probably do the springs no problem, and i got a friend who does derby cars so if i get in a pinch i'll take it over to his place where he has better tools and more experience.

Dan

 

[96Greenster]

Ok. So i scored a set of rims, 15 inchers for 60 bucks today. They are stock ford rims. I swung by the tire shop on the way home and the guy there showed me a tire size (30X9.5X15) i like that will give my Ranger enough lift to look good without needing a step ladder to get in. lol. So what i'm trying to figure out, what is the best leveling kit to go with? I'm trying to keep this cheap and like under 100 dollars on that part. I'm trying to go cheap so i can pay for some of this so my parents aren't saddled with it. I have looked at a couple kits though i don't know what is good and what is bad.

I'm kindof leaning to one of these two here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...Track=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:middle:us

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=260347236576

I'm assuming with thoose i won't have to have longer shocks, i'll just basically be maxing out the stock suspension height?

Also how hard is it to get the spring off to put these on? I plan on doing the front shocks so i figured do these at the same time. I figure if i can do the shocks i can probably do the springs no problem, and i got a friend who does derby cars so if i get in a pinch i'll take it over to his place where he has better tools and more experience.

Dan

From my experience with polyuerathane/rubber spacers, I would never buy them again, enough said on that case. I made my own 2'' spacers with 3" washers, worked out pretty good. You do know that you will need to buy stud extender for the kits(if not included)? And for removing springs, they are not so hard to remove if you have the appropiate tools for the job, and some DW-40 and some muscle. You can see my result from the homemade kit here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3012692

 

[Tractor Dan]

From my experience with polyuerathane/rubber spacers, I would never buy them again, enough said on that case. I made my own 2'' spacers with 3" washers, worked out pretty good. You do know that you will need to buy stud extender for the kits(if not included)? And for removing springs, they are not so hard to remove if you have the appropiate tools for the job, and some DW-40 and some muscle. You can see my result from the homemade kit here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3012692

Yeah i knew about the stud extender for the kits. As for the washers you used how have they been holding up? I would be tempted to do that though i'm wondering if going 3 inchs would be too much for washers? I mainly do on road driving, the only off i do is in like our yard when i'm moving mulch and whatnot or on the side of the road when i stop to help someone. So i'm thinking i might be able to get away with going the washer route. I would like to lift the whole thing, but right now i'm just focused on getting it to where i can get the tires on it, that's going to cost enough in tires alone. lol. Your truck looks pretty good with the washers and i think i might just do that, it's probably one of the cheapest ways out there. As for the rubber, that's why i asked about it, i had a feeling thoose poly's would do that. Also the stud extenders where do you get thoose? I'm assuming somewhere like rockauto would have them or i might be able to find them on ebay.

Dan

 

[96Greenster]

Yeah i knew about the stud extender for the kits. As for the washers you used how have they been holding up? I would be tempted to do that though i'm wondering if going 3 inchs would be too much for washers? I mainly do on road driving, the only off i do is in like our yard when i'm moving mulch and whatnot or on the side of the road when i stop to help someone. So i'm thinking i might be able to get away with going the washer route. I would like to lift the whole thing, but right now i'm just focused on getting it to where i can get the tires on it, that's going to cost enough in tires alone. lol. Your truck looks pretty good with the washers and i think i might just do that, it's probably one of the cheapest ways out there. As for the rubber, that's why i asked about it, i had a feeling thoose poly's would do that. Also the stud extenders where do you get thoose? I'm assuming somewhere like rockauto would have them or i might be able to find them on ebay.

Dan

Thanx for the compliment. Well let me tell you, Im very happy with the washer lift especially that its cheap, the only downside is the stiffer ride when offroad, but still has a smooth ride on highway. I had bought the poly kit and it came with the stud extenders, so i just reused those. You can find them mostly anywhere, mine are from ebay, I would say that 3" of washer would be too much man, i have 2" of washers and got a decent amount of lift. You would probably need a drop pitman arm for 3" and higher. Im looking foward to buying some 32x10.5 once I get some 15x8 rims. My washers are not even welded, but I would feel safer if they were... Overall, i like them and would recommend go for washers over poly, for sure...

 

[Tractor Dan]

Yeah. I'll probably just shoot for the 2 inch lift. According to the tire fitment guide 2 inches of lift on the front will be enough to fit the tires i want. I'll do what i can afford now. lol. My biggest fear with the washers is rust, though i assume if they are painted good there should really be nothing to worry about. As for actually putting thoose under the springs, i'm assuming i would have to pull the rotors, caliper, and whatnot to get back to the shocks and springs. I figure i'll just do the front shocks at the same time since they really need it badly. lol.

Dan

 

[96Greenster]

Yeah. I'll probably just shoot for the 2 inch lift. According to the tire fitment guide 2 inches of lift on the front will be enough to fit the tires i want. I'll do what i can afford now. lol. My biggest fear with the washers is rust, though i assume if they are painted good there should really be nothing to worry about. As for actually putting thoose under the springs, i'm assuming i would have to pull the rotors, caliper, and whatnot to get back to the shocks and springs. I figure i'll just do the front shocks at the same time since they really need it badly. lol.

Dan

Yeah, defenitely paint them with rust proof paint. paint them indivisually ofcourse. And for installing them its not that hard man, the way I did mine was...
1.Lift it from the chassis, enough for the tire to clear the floor.
2.Remove the tire.
3.Put jackstand under the body, remove jack.
4.Lift the suspension only, enough to remove the swaybar links.
5.Remove the swaybar links, remove shock absorber nut.
6.Remove the stud nut holding the spring down(this is the hard part). I used a 1-1/8" wrench, dw40, and alot of muscle.
7.I removed the spring just to paint it. You dont have to remove it.
8.Then lower the jack holding the I-beam until the axle is mot touching the spring. I used 12 washers, put the stud extender in first.
9.Center the washers, lift Ibeam until they make contact with spring, put the nut in again.
10.Rewind the process. Its mostly common sense. Make sure everything is tighten... Thats it.

 

[Tractor Dan]

Yeah, defenitely paint them with rust proof paint. paint them indivisually ofcourse. And for installing them its not that hard man, the way I did mine was...
1.Lift it from the chassis, enough for the tire to clear the floor.
2.Remove the tire.
3.Put jackstand under the body, remove jack.
4.Lift the suspension only, enough to remove the swaybar links.
5.Remove the swaybar links, remove shock absorber nut.
6.Remove the stud nut holding the spring down(this is the hard part). I used a 1-1/8" wrench, dw40, and alot of muscle.
7.I removed the spring just to paint it. You dont have to remove it.
8.Then lower the jack holding the I-beam until the axle is mot touching the spring. I used 12 washers, put the stud extender in first.
9.Center the washers, lift Ibeam until they make contact with spring, put the nut in again.
10.Rewind the process. Its mostly common sense. Make sure everything is tighten... Thats it.

Sweet. Sounds easy, still probably taking it to my friends place. Air compressor, air tools, and what have you make my job much easier. lol. Thanks for the info though i appreciate it.

Dan

 

[joeforum123]

Keep in mind that you will have to get the front end realigned once you do the lift. That can cost up to $100... Once you do the lift, you'll have a positive camber condition. You will probably need new camber bushings to get the alignment correct. If you exceed 2+" inches of lift, you might not get the camber back to spec. (see the Technical Library, "Lifting for Cheap".. http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/LiftingOnABudget.htm)

I am speaking from very recent experience... I just did my lift last week. I chose to spend a little extra and replace the coil springs completely with leveling springs... but the washer lift will do the job for a fraction of the cost.

Good luck!!

 

[Tractor Dan]

Keep in mind that you will have to get the front end realigned once you do the lift. That can cost up to $100... Once you do the lift, you'll have a positive camber condition. You will probably need new camber bushings to get the alignment correct. If you exceed 2+" inches of lift, you might not get the camber back to spec. (see the Technical Library, "Lifting for Cheap".. http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/LiftingOnABudget.htm)

I am speaking from very recent experience... I just did my lift last week. I chose to spend a little extra and replace the coil springs completely with leveling springs... but the washer lift will do the job for a fraction of the cost.

Good luck!!

Thanks for the advice. I'm not planning on going much over 2 maybe just a smidgen, going to keep it as close to 2 as i can. I figure it will be safer to get it back within specs again. I atleast know i got a place that can get me aligned pretty good and it needs one anyways. Also seeing as i'm doing shocks on it as well, any takes on longer shocks? I'm trying to figure out the best bang for the buck.

Dan

 

[96Greenster]

Thanks for the advice. I'm not planning on going much over 2 maybe just a smidgen, going to keep it as close to 2 as i can. I figure it will be safer to get it back within specs again. I atleast know i got a place that can get me aligned pretty good and it needs one anyways. Also seeing as i'm doing shocks on it as well, any takes on longer shocks? I'm trying to figure out the best bang for the buck.

Dan

Oh yeah forgot to mention about the alignment deal too, my bad. Bout the shocks theres a guy that used shocks from 1990+ ford f150 trucks, he said that they fit like a charm. Im also looking for some myself too.

 

[Tractor Dan]

Oh yeah forgot to mention about the alignment deal too, my bad. Bout the shocks theres a guy that used shocks from 1990+ ford f150 trucks, he said that they fit like a charm. Im also looking for some myself too.

Hey. I just took a gander at autozones website. They got stock ones for a 1990 F-150 for 17 dollars. Ain't the fanciest but they will work for me for what i use them for. Same price as the ones for my Ranger. I'm hesitant to buy them unless i know they will fit without issues.

Dan

 

[96Greenster]

Hey. I just took a gander at autozones website. They got stock ones for a 1990 F-150 for 17 dollars. Ain't the fanciest but they will work for me for what i use them for. Same price as the ones for my Ranger. I'm hesitant to buy them unless i know they will fit without issues.

Dan

The guy used some from a 1993 F150, same size stud, 2'' longer when compressed and 4'' longer when exteded. So they will fit perfectly. I getting convinced on buying some for mine... Let me know how it goes if u make the swap

 

[Tractor Dan]

The guy used some from a 1993 F150, same size stud, 2'' longer when compressed and 4'' longer when exteded. So they will fit perfectly. I getting convinced on buying some for mine... Let me know how it goes if u make the swap

I might give it a go, i might talk to some of my people in the car realm and get their take on it. Maybe before i do it i take the old shocks off, go to auto zone, and double check it all matches up. I would hate to get them home and have them not work. Not to mention autozone is a 20 minute drive from my house.

Also anyone know if it will affect anything having shocks made for the Ranger on the back and the F-150 shocks on the front? I mean shocks don't actually affect to much of the ride height from what i understand, just how the vehicle rides, handles, and sways?

Dan

 

[RangerRyan88]

The guy used some from a 1993 F150, same size stud, 2'' longer when compressed and 4'' longer when exteded. So they will fit perfectly. I getting convinced on buying some for mine... Let me know how it goes if u make the swap

That was me!! Yeah Dan I am LOVING the F150 shocks on the front of my truck, 100% no joke after my washer lift and the F150 shocks she rides smoother than when I bought her a few months ago I did 2" thick of washers (nets about 2.25" actual lift) and the stock passenger shock wouldn't even fit onto the radius arm at "ride height" but the F150 shocks fit perfect. I've had them out wheelin' and haven't bottomed them out, haven't over extended (I also took my sway bar completely off) and it's a great ride. Damn I really need to get some new pics on here.. haha

Let us know how it comes out!

 

[96Greenster]

That was me!! Yeah Dan I am LOVING the F150 shocks on the front of my truck, 100% no joke after my washer lift and the F150 shocks she rides smoother than when I bought her a few months ago I did 2" thick of washers (nets about 2.25" actual lift) and the stock passenger shock wouldn't even fit onto the radius arm at "ride height" but the F150 shocks fit perfect. I've had them out wheelin' and haven't bottomed them out, haven't over extended (I also took my sway bar completely off) and it's a great ride. Damn I really need to get some new pics on here.. haha

Let us know how it comes out!

Yeah, it was you!!! You definetely need to post sum pics man!!!