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1988 Ford Ranger XLT ((NEED AUDIO HELP))



or these if you dont plan on amping them. should matche well with your deck.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=7188

both lookin pretty good... now forgive me, i'm new to this stuff... when they say like peak power, that's per channel right? so if i had an amp, hooked up with the 4 speakers in my truck, it would take the wattage of the amp and divide it by 4, giving equal to each speaker? say it's a 400w amp, it would end up putting out 100w to each speaker? (if it really was 100% efficient, but i know they aren't)

the actually wattage not really inportant i dont think your gonna be over 50 rms. so youll be good. i know all about the money issue just try not to blow the back ones.

but like mazda said if your end result is something thats gonna rock the d oors off.

then i have 4 of these in my truck all amped with an alpine 400w rms amp 4 channel

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPR69C/Alpine-SPR-69C.html?c=3&tp=91&avf=N

back ones may already be blown, but when the audio is faded to the back, they don't sound crackly or anything, just not even loud at all. any idea why they are in such a big encasement back there?

dude i bet those are ****in rockin... they'd be great if i could afford them, it's a little too much for me right now, if i could get shit on a payment plan, that'd be way better lol... maybe i should look in local stores? places there i might be able to get monthly payments instead, i'd be able to up the budget probably then.. idk

now that you know the sizes check out www.onlinecarstereo.com beware though because they have terrible customer service but their prices are cheap

anybody else know about this site? any input?
 
both lookin pretty good... now forgive me, i'm new to this stuff... when they say like peak power, that's per channel right? so if i had an amp, hooked up with the 4 speakers in my truck, it would take the wattage of the amp and divide it by 4, giving equal to each speaker? say it's a 400w amp, it would end up putting out 100w to each speaker? (if it really was 100% efficient, but i know they aren't)

yes and no.... most of the time yes some high end are what they are. like my alpines are like that my 4 channel. is called f450 and its 100wx4 or nothing.
its just called the f450 no max watts or anything.

back ones may already be blown, but when the audio is faded to the back, they don't sound crackly or anything, just not even loud at all. any idea why they are in such a big encasement back there?

no real reason just because.

dude i bet those are ****in rockin... they'd be great if i could afford them, it's a little too much for me right now, if i could get shit on a payment plan, that'd be way better lol... maybe i should look in local stores? places there i might be able to get monthly payments instead, i'd be able to up the budget probably then.. idk

but yes 400w of highs are good enuff for any DD lol and they do have layaways atleast the three around me all do.
 
yes and no.... most of the time yes some high end are what they are. like my alpines are like that my 4 channel. is called f450 and its 100wx4 or nothing.
its just called the f450 no max watts or anything.



no real reason just because.



but yes 400w of highs are good enuff for any DD lol and they do have layaways atleast the three around me all do.

thanks alot, to all that have helped.

one last set of questions...


1) replace fronts or rears? (won't be amping at this time, but plan to amp, and sub eventually)
2) if backs: enclosure??
3) for fronts or backs: wattages? brands? construction materials?
 
1) replace fronts or rears? (won't be amping at this time, but plan to amp, and sub eventually)
2) if backs: enclosure??
3) for fronts or backs: wattages? brands? construction materials?

one do backs first. then rears i woundnt do an incloser for back speakers unless your trying to mount a biger speaker in there. and as far as modding speakers go the less work the better and what i mean by that is try and use as much oem as you can. if you can fit a bigger on in there just widen the hole some. dont building a box and adding all sorts of things to it.


wattage if your gonna amp id look for 50 to 75 watts or more. jl, apline, i say eclipse they have done right by me but havent used them alot really. but they might be a cheap option. i know we have posted some links for you all ready. if you find something you like post a link well tell you ya or na
 
I'm going to have to disagree with 4x4 about doing the rears first. In audio you dont necissarily want a lot of sound coming from behind you it makes you a bit uncomfortable. In car audio I try to have my nicer speakers up front usually some componant speakers and some cheaper 2 ways that have been tuned way down just as a filler.
 
sorry typo do the fronts first.....i said to the rears twice:icon_confused:
 
I run JL audio speakers all around they sound great but are on the pricier side around $120 a pair normally. I love higher end audio though, so you can spend less but these speakers rock. I plan on adding a four channel eclipse amp to mine. I've been doing this for awhile and used to win trophies at bass competitions. I recommend you put most of your money into your head unit and highs before considering bass. bass is worthless if you can't hear your highs. A good head unit can make a huge difference on sound quality even if using a four channel amp. If you want really good sound quality consider component speakers ( consist of a woofer with separate tweeter and its own crossover) but they are fairly pricey. Do this and then add your bass to your system. Just my two cents though.
 
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I run JL audio speakers all around they sound great but are on the pricier side around $120 a pair normally. I love higher end audio though, so you can spend less but these speakers rock. I plan on adding a four channel eclipse amp to mine. I've been doing this for awhile and used to win trophies at bass competitions. I recommend you put most of your money into your head unit and highs before considering bass. bass is worthless if you can't hear your highs. A good head unit can make a huge difference on sound quality even if using a four channel amp. If you want really good sound quality consider component speakers ( consist of a woofer with separate tweeter and its own crossover) but they are fairly pricey. Do this and then add your bass to your system. Just my two cents though.


the mb quartz used to make speakers for jl plus they are at least half the price of jl equivalent. the component system i picked out already fits your rig you just have to custom mount your tweeter on the window well which isnt hard.
 
one do backs first. then rears i woundnt do an incloser for back speakers unless your trying to mount a biger speaker in there. and as far as modding speakers go the less work the better and what i mean by that is try and use as much oem as you can. if you can fit a bigger on in there just widen the hole some. dont building a box and adding all sorts of things to it.


wattage if your gonna amp id look for 50 to 75 watts or more. jl, apline, i say eclipse they have done right by me but havent used them alot really. but they might be a cheap option. i know we have posted some links for you all ready. if you find something you like post a link well tell you ya or na

Are you saying to use the boxes that the rears are in?? Sorry, I just don't understand your post too much.

I'll go ahead and upgrade the fronts first, I'll start looking around, and post up here before I do anything of course.

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8471
for your dash, I have some 3" full ranges from this company and they are simply amazing. I put them in my car and then built a 5.1 home audio system with them.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14403
I would have gone with mb quartz on the componant system but they were a little more expensive. as for the rears I'd put them in later.

I'll check them out, sound great.

the mb quartz used to make speakers for jl plus they are at least half the price of jl equivalent. the component system i picked out already fits your rig you just have to custom mount your tweeter on the window well which isnt hard.

It isn't too hard for you... lol I have no clue what you mean.

All this lingo... :O




Also, onlinecarstereo.com says that I have 4" fronts??? In order to know for sure, would I have to take my dash apart and measure? Or can I just measure the opening? Like side to side of the perforated part of my dash.
 
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ok for the doors a component system is a woofer a tweeter and a cross over box that wires them all together. The cross over box is labeled so you know what to hook wires into. The tweeter you might want to mount on the window wells whick requires you to drill 2 little holes and bolt them on and the woofer will mount right into the factory door pocket. Hide the cross over and hook it up to your amplifier or head unit if you arent buying an amp.
 
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=20082
these are the mb quartz ones im talking about but they are about 30 bucks more than the rockford fosgate. I'd buy the mb quartz ones personally but if you're on a budget its understandable. The full ranges I mentioned might need a cross over built, I can ask my buddy to design one for you and all you would have to do is some simple soldering.
 
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19915 (2-way, RMS: 50w, Peak 150w, 2ohm, 91db sensitivity, Woofer Composition: Honeycomb Laminate, Tweeter Composition: Textile)

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19638 (2-way, RMS: 50w, Peak 150w, Dual 2ohm, 93db sens, woofer comp: woven-glass fiber, tweet comp: MMD)

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18865 (2-way, RMS: 55w, Peak 170w, 4 ohm, 87db sens, woofer comp: poly-mica cone, tweet comp: silk)
 
ok for the doors a component system is a woofer a tweeter and a cross over box that wires them all together. The cross over box is labeled so you know what to hook wires into. The tweeter you might want to mount on the window wells whick requires you to drill 2 little holes and bolt them on and the woofer will mount right into the factory door pocket. Hide the cross over and hook it up to your amplifier or head unit if you arent buying an amp.

Don't have door speakers, factory door pocket is no then?

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=20082
these are the mb quartz ones im talking about but they are about 30 bucks more than the rockford fosgate. I'd buy the mb quartz ones personally but if you're on a budget its understandable. The full ranges I mentioned might need a cross over built, I can ask my buddy to design one for you and all you would have to do is some simple soldering.

Dude, I wish... maybe if I hold off until summer, what would you guys reccomend? The system is fine now, just not amazing. So... possibly sell the speakers I buy soon once around summer hits, or wait until summer and really lay some money into my system?
 
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