4.0 trans swap help

[ivegotlittlebutmuch]

It starts here.

Basically a junkyard engine swap, with all new gaskets, and a rocker/pushrod set.

That's the second 4.0 in my truck. I bought it with a 2.9 that was in pieces. The first 4.0 had 174,000 miles when I swapped it in. It made it another 210,000 with minimal maintenance. I hope this one does the same.

That's... Intensive.

 

[SenorNoob]

To be fair, that thread starts 12 years ago. And that was after the 4.0 swap was done.

 

[ivegotlittlebutmuch]

To be fair, that thread starts 12 years ago. And that was after the 4.0 swap was done.

That's true, after the transmission swap I'm gonna make it a good daily. The engine runs hella clean.

 

[ivegotlittlebutmuch]

To be fair, that thread starts 12 years ago. And that was after the 4.0 swap was done.

This is before we ripped it apart

 

[ivegotlittlebutmuch]

Here they are.
I've never spray painted before so they are gonna be scuffed.
I did cover all ports and stuff with painters tape.

 

[Jointslit]

Hello folks. I'm swapping my transmission in my 1990 Ford ranger 4.0. My A4LD went to crap, no reverse and leaking out of everywhere. So I'm switching to a m5r1, so far it looks as if I don't need a new driveshaft. It looks just swap and drop, is this true?

Interesting. I have a 94 ranger 4.0 2wd a4ld with 94k on it .mines only leaking out of front seal for probably needs a new torque converter and maybe a new pump assembly. I got stuck in Woodstock, Ga away from all my gear head friends and trying to find some to help fix or a more reliable conversion. Does same trans work on this truck as long as it’s 2wd? How did your swap go ?

 

[ivegotlittlebutmuch]

Interesting. I have a 94 ranger 4.0 2wd a4ld with 94k on it .mines only leaking out of front seal for probably needs a new torque converter and maybe a new pump assembly. I got stuck in Woodstock, Ga away from all my gear head friends and trying to find some to help fix or a more reliable conversion. Does same trans work on this truck as long as it’s 2wd? How did your swap go ?

I haven't done it yet, but you will need to hack at your drive shafts if yours is a 2x4.

 

[ivegotlittlebutmuch]

Here it is buttoned up and running. I put it off for a long time because I got hit by an illness which turned into laziness when I got my new job.
Don't mind the plumbing it's abhorid.

 

[ivegotlittlebutmuch]

So I put my engine back together and there's some ticking I can't tell if this is the infamous lifter tick or something else

Also here's me being abnoxious to see if I was burning coolant

 

[gaz]

@ivegotlittlebutmuch
If you understand lifter preload, then, even though the 4.0l valve train is non adjustable, you can correct it.

ROCKERS
Unfortunately this would have been much simpler with those valve covers off. Inspect the rockers and pushrods for wear, they are probably pretty bad. If so, consider a new set of improved performance rockers from Delta Camshaft of Tacoma Washington. You can use stock/OEM but for the couple dollars more, these will out last OEM. Also he is the only bubba on the planet that has them, he made a big purchase many years ago, from the only remaining source.

PUSHRODS
You may get 35k more out of fresh rods, then it will.need them again OR you can contact Smith Brother's for either a custom set or an adjustable set; the adjustable set will pay for itself after the first 35k miles, as all they will need is to be readjusted.

A 3rd option is a set of 2.9l rockers which are adjustable. They are however not direct fit, 6 of them will require a small margin of machining; also paying for itself after the next 35k miles

LIFTERS
I have yet to see a set go bad. Roller lifters are inherently going to last MUCH longer, less friction in their design, so less wear.

IMPROVED OILING
While it's apart, perform a complete tear down, clean inspect the rocker arms, often, if not usually caked full of crud. After a complete cleaning, open all the oil orifices 1 machinist drill bit size. Then chamfer and deburr, this will improve the top end oiling and costs nearly nothing but your time ..)

 

[ivegotlittlebutmuch]

@ivegotlittlebutmuch
If you understand lifter preload, then, even though the 4.0l valve train is non adjustable, you can correct it.

ROCKERS
Unfortunately this would have been much simpler with those valve covers off. Inspect the rockers and pushrods for wear, they are probably pretty bad. If so, consider a new set of improved performance rockers from Delta Camshaft of Tacoma Washington. You can use stock/OEM but for the couple dollars more, these will out last OEM. Also he is the only bubba on the planet that has them, he made a big purchase many years ago, from the only source.

PUSHRODS
You may get 35k more out if fresh rods, then it will.need them again OR you can contact Smith Brother's for either a custom set or an adjustable set; the adjustable set will pay for itself after the first 35k miles, as all they will need is to be readjusted.

A erd option is a set of 2.9l rockers which are adjustable. They are however not direct fit, 6 if them will require a small margin of machining; also paying for itself after the next 35k miles

LIFTERS
I have yet to see a set go bad. Roller lifters are inherently going to last MUCH longer, less friction in their design, so less wear.

IMPROVED OILING
While it's apart, perform a complete tear down, clean inspect the rocker arms, often it not usually caked full of crud. After a complete cleaning, open all the oil orifices 1 machinist drill bit size. Then chamfer and deburr, this will improve the top end oiling and costs nearly nothing but your time ..)

Yeah I inspected the rockers and briefly was able to get a glimpse at rod wear. They aren't bad, so I'm wondering if oiling is the most likely culprit.
I'll probably be tearing it apart here soon cause somethings gonna go wrong it's the way of life. Thank you for your advice, none of this stuff is urgent per say as far as I'm aware.

 

[gaz]

@ivegotlittlebutmuch
They only need 0.010" wear between the rocker and rod together, the rods probably have more all on their own. Adding 0.010" wear to the preload will make them clack (tap loud) like their getting paid and IT WILL COST You PERFORMANCE in the form of fuel economy until it is set correctly.

Just saying , with the rods the ball ends go flat, the rocker cups get bowled out.

 

[ivegotlittlebutmuch]

@ivegotlittlebutmuch
They only need 0.010" wear between the rocker and rod together, the rods probably have more all on their own. Adding 0.010" wear to the preload will make them clack (tap loud) like their getting paid and IT WILL COST You PERFORMANCE in the form of fuel economy until it is set correctly.

Just saying , with the rods the ball ends go flat, the rocker cups get bowled out.

Yeah, I'd assume so. I'm just not gonna open it all up again quite yet. I have other things like installing the subwoofer, putting the seats in, the various legalities.