92 Explorer 4x4 drivetrain into 88 Bronco 2

[lil_Blue_Ford]

That's what I said...

Yeah, but I was pointing out the reason the computer doesn’t care if it’s plugged in or not, because it didn’t exist for 92

 

[Uncle Gump]

 

[gaz]

Sorry for the bad gauge on the Federal O² setup; while I have a 94 Federal engine, I have never seen the "Y" or harness...I should have looked that up before I commented.

 

[Joneskvn]

Thanks again for the continued good info! Need help with another consideration. Going to use the B2 to flat tow behind my rv. After reading about that 92 explorer 4wd is electronic and they don’t have a way to put transfer case in neutral, I read I’d have to remove the rear driveshaft to tow and not burn up automatic tranny. I have access to a piece that can be spliced into a drive shaft that will disengage it. Obviously requires 2 piece drive shaft and I’m going to probably have to have a new one built anyway. Question I have is if I disengage rear driveshaft, will transfer case and front wheel drive assemblies be ok? Guess the easier alternative would be to use drive shaft coupler and go 2we but kinda like the idea of having 4wd as well. Thanks for any advice on this as well. Lots to consider when starting from scratch. Y’all are helping me sort thru all my thoughts and ideas.

 

[SenorNoob]

With rear shaft disconnected, and front hubs unlocked the only thing moving is the rear diff and the front wheel bearings and brakes. Auto hubs SHOULD unlock when the wheel rolls. If you have manual hubs or are paranoid enough about to swap to manual hubs, you can easily check the position of the knobs.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thanks again for the continued good info! Need help with another consideration. Going to use the B2 to flat tow behind my rv. After reading about that 92 explorer 4wd is electronic and they don’t have a way to put transfer case in neutral, I read I’d have to remove the rear driveshaft to tow and not burn up automatic tranny. I have access to a piece that can be spliced into a drive shaft that will disengage it. Obviously requires 2 piece drive shaft and I’m going to probably have to have a new one built anyway. Question I have is if I disengage rear driveshaft, will transfer case and front wheel drive assemblies be ok? Guess the easier alternative would be to use drive shaft coupler and go 2we but kinda like the idea of having 4wd as well. Thanks for any advice on this as well. Lots to consider when starting from scratch. Y’all are helping me sort thru all my thoughts and ideas.

Ok, so….

You don’t have to use the electric t-case. You can use a manual t-case. A 92 should still have the threaded bosses on the transmission for the shift lever. You need a manual t-case and the shift linkage plus the floor plate under the carpet and the shift boot/trim. Junkyard items, but any Ranger or B2 will work for a donor, but the shift linkage may or may not be correct depending on the transmission of the donor, but it can be modified if needed, a few members have done that.

Your driveshaft should work, unless you have a CV driveshaft. If it’s u-joints, you should be good.

There is another option with the electric t-case. There’s currently discussion going on in another thread about a manual knob in place of the shift motor that will have a neutral position.

Oh, and do yourself a favor and use manual front hubs. There’s no guessing like with the auto hubs.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Gaging interest in resurrecting the Shiftster

So, thanks to @Curious Hound I am now in possession of a Shiftster. I need to meet with machinists this week for other projects, and was going to have them look over the tool to see what the price point on having them made would be. Throwing this post out there to see if there's interest in...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[mr_manny]

Your driveshaft should work, unless you have a CV driveshaft. If it’s u-joints, you should be good.

Do you use the flange yoke off the Explorer?
I noticed my 7.5 flange bolt pattern doesn't play nice with the ford 8.8" diff.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Do you use the flange yoke off the Explorer?
I noticed my 7.5 flange bolt pattern doesn't play nice with the ford 8.8" diff.

Come to think of it, when I did change to an 8.8”, which was last year instead of when I did the 4x4 or 4.0 swaps, I did have to change the yoke on the driveshaft. I have a small collection of yokes from various junkyard dives and projects. There’s two u-joint sizes and two bolt patterns, and adapting is as easy as changing a u-joint