Lift pump to high pressure in tank setup

[Uncle Gump]

Not enough...

That's why I bought a second one.

All parts are hit or miss anymore.

Question for you... what injectors did you buy? Lots of horror stories come with most it seems.

 

[ryan445]

I wouldn’t hesitate to keep a plastic tank, but steel tanks around here are no good. Rust is a nightmare.

There’s two good reasons to redo the lines. The first is age. The second is that to go to a single pump in the tank, you need to at least eliminate the frame pump. Realistically you could also toss the fuel reservoir as well. Splicing stuff in creates more potential failure points on an already old system.

On my 00 and 92 Rangers I pulled the bed to deal with the fuel system. Of course, I also had other work to do that the bed off the truck made convenient, except for when the pump got replaced on the 00 (that was done prior to the lines needing replacement). My 89 Bronco II got an access hatch above the pump by me probably 15 years ago so I didn’t have to drop anything to do the lines.

The truck was in California for most of its life. I moved out to Texas 6 years ago and it came with me. The humidity in Texas would defiantly rust a tank, especially with the 10% ethanol that is in todays gas pulling in that moisture.

On a note about the lines, this truck has a carbon canister under the hood. Doubt it does anything anymore. Should I need to worry about that?

 

[ryan445]

Not enough...

That's why I bought a second one.

All parts are hit or miss anymore.

Question for you... what injectors did you buy? Lots of horror stories come with most it seems.

I send my 4 factory ones off to injector planet to be rebuilt and flow tested. He also supplied me with two matching bosch ones he had on hand.

I had this issue before doing the injectors along with just overall sluggishness all around and horrible idle. The other issues are gone, just this one remains.

I will say all of these issues didn't exist until I let the truck sit for 4 years. I know varnished gas did what varnished gas does best. Mess stuff up.

 

[ryan445]

Just drove home from work and I had to limp it home. Was driving fine and stopped at the store. When I went back out, the truck started but was struggling to idle. Turned it off and cycled the key and it fired up okay. Once I got on the street, once it hit 3k rpms it would speed up, loose power and kept that rhythm going. Thought I wasn't gonna make it home.

I looked around under the truck when I got home and found a leak in one of the lines towards the tank. Although just a pin hole one....

 

[SenorNoob]

I just did this swap a couple weeks ago. (It didn't fix my problem but it was a possibility and I already head the parts here.)

I eliminated the reservoir and in-rail pump. New lines from the factory braided to the tank. One from pump-filter-fuel rail another from regulator-tank. I double checked my sender with the one that was in my truck during the swap. Same height and empty/half/full on the sender matched, but once in the tank it needed 8 gallons to register above empty... The only mod I needed to the sender was to cut a little (almost the same length as width) of the pick-up line off the sender to get the new pump (Kemso) to fit inside the hanger.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I just did this swap a couple weeks ago. (It didn't fix my problem but it was a possibility and I already head the parts here.)

I eliminated the reservoir and in-rail pump. New lines from the factory braided to the tank. One from pump-filter-fuel rail another from regulator-tank. I double checked my sender with the one that was in my truck during the swap. Same height and empty/half/full on the sender matched, but once in the tank it needed 8 gallons to register above empty... The only mod I needed to the sender was to cut a little (almost the same length as width) of the pick-up line off the sender to get the new pump (Kemso) to fit inside the hanger.

I heard you’re writing up a tech article for this?

 

[SenorNoob]

I thought you already had one.

Those are the only 2 pictures I've got...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I thought you already had one.

Those are the only 2 pictures I've got...

TRS doesn’t have a tech article on the swap yet.

I’ve never done the swap, I’m just aware of it. @85_Ranger4x4 can help you too

 

[ryan445]

I just did this swap a couple weeks ago. (It didn't fix my problem but it was a possibility and I already head the parts here.)

I eliminated the reservoir and in-rail pump. New lines from the factory braided to the tank. One from pump-filter-fuel rail another from regulator-tank. I double checked my sender with the one that was in my truck during the swap. Same height and empty/half/full on the sender matched, but once in the tank it needed 8 gallons to register above empty... The only mod I needed to the sender was to cut a little (almost the same length as width) of the pick-up line off the sender to get the new pump (Kemso) to fit inside the hanger.

My factory sending unit becomes "unstable" after 1/2 tank Could be just under half a tank and then the next time you look down your at 1/4 then empty and then everywhere between. I rely on resetting the trip at each fill up. I am slowly procuring the parts for this. Haven't ordered the sending unit yet, but was looking at a cheap on on RockAuto. One I can mess up on and not hurt lol.

I had a old friend over the other day and made a comment to me that most likely the high pressure fuel pump cracked the old fuel line trying to suck gas from the tank since the low pressure pump maybe going out sporadically or is out. Not sure if that is possible, but in a way I don't doubt it.

TRS doesn’t have a tech article on the swap yet.

I’ve never done the swap, I’m just aware of it. @85_Ranger4x4 can help you too

If successful in my ventures. I can pitch in

 

[Uncle Gump]

If a line was cracked... you would know it.

 

[ryan445]

What, if anything, did you do at the fuel rail with the spring connectors? I am planning to press new quick connectors and line from the tank to fuel filter. But I am not sure how to approach the fuel rail connection. Are these spring loaded connectors something you can buy and press in as well?

 

[Uncle Gump]

My lines and spring lock couples looked good. I just reused what was there and used the Dorman fuel line unions the connect into the new lines back to the tank.

If you zoom in on the right side filter connection... you'll see one of the barrel unions that connected the old and new return line.

That said... there are options if you want to replace the spring lock couplers too.

 

[ryan445]

Since one of the lines has a crack or pin hole in it near the tank. I was looking at replacing the lines with all new Dorman lines and ordering a pack of Dorman 5/16 press in quick connects. Honestly, the return line and the line coming from the filter to the rail appear to be in good shape. So maybe ill leave the spring locks alone and those lines coming to and from the fuel rail. Just delete the canister and run a new line to the fuel filter from the tank......Maybe replace that tube between the spring lock and the regulator, that one looks questionable.

After I posted I saw where you can press the spring lock into the tube in the picture.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Since one of the lines has a crack or pin hole in it near the tank. I was looking at replacing the lines with all new Dorman lines and ordering a pack of Dorman 5/16 press in quick connects. Honestly, the return line and the line coming from the filter to the rail appear to be in good shape. So maybe ill leave the spring locks alone and those lines coming to and from the fuel rail. Just delete the canister and run a new line to the fuel filter from the tank......Maybe replace that tube between the spring lock and the regulator, that one looks questionable.

After I posted I saw where you can press the spring lock into the tube in the picture.

So, after having made the mistake of leaving old fuel line and trying to patch when you get a leak, I’d say if it’s leaking, replace it all.

Also, Ford used 5/16 and 3/8” fuel line fittings

 

[ryan445]

I am about to pull the trigger on the pump.
A final question as once I pull this trigger, this project is officially started.
I am looking at the walbro GSS340 which can push out up to 90 PSI where as the factory frame mount does a max of 45 psi (67 GPH vs 41 GPH factory)
Can the factory spec FPR handle the increase along with the factory spec filter?