What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


Yes, it will be in the build thread. I'll explain things as I go.
There is a similar system in my build thread and several tech articles about doing it. Robbie Mangrum has a good system and does these installations professionally as part of his normal job.
 
Yesterday I played vehicle Tetris. I needed to get my old Ranger out of tight parking and into my lift area in prep for engine and trans removal. Luckily a friend showed up and I roped him into helping out. One of the things I've been working in is a support for a lift that is usually on my trailer. I want to use the lift on my truck. I welded a bunch of 2" square tube to come off the back reciever. Well, two of those pieces made a great push bar.
What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

And I did eventually get the ranger in place.

What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

Unfortunately my truck had an argument with the low hanging roof and ripped the headache bar loose and crumpled the bedsides. I may make a flat deck now...

What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)
What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)
What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)
 
Yesterday I played vehicle Tetris. I needed to get my old Ranger out of tight parking and into my lift area in prep for engine and trans removal. Luckily a friend showed up and I roped him into helping out. One of the things I've been working in is a support for a lift that is usually on my trailer. I want to use the lift on my truck. I welded a bunch of 2" square tube to come off the back reciever. Well, two of those pieces made a great push bar.
View attachment 145344
And I did eventually get the ranger in place.

View attachment 145345
Unfortunately my truck had an argument with the low hanging roof and ripped the headache bar loose and crumpled the bedsides. I may make a flat deck now...

View attachment 145346View attachment 145347View attachment 145348
Oh, that stinks.
 
HELP!
street cleaning is tmrw and this rear wheel bearing isnt pushing in. looks like i still have another 5-10mm to go. the 'rent a tool bearing press thinger' is a loose fit and just getting destroyed. i dont have a monster sized sockets to hammer on.

i cleaned then greased up the axle housing and bearing before installation
 

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There is an internal lip on the axle housing. Put your finger in there... is the bearing on it? Was the bearing the same size OD and thickness?

Those shouldn't be that hard to install.
 
And you broke it...
 
im gonna pop the bearing out tomorrow and buy a $30 replacement bearing from autozone and try the 'frozen bearing + torched hub' trick.

any guesses as to why the bearing was so stubborn to go inside? everything looked smooth and clean.
is it possible that the bearing was the wrong size and off by a half mm or something? i also noticed the hub+shaft had a lot of difficulty passing through the bearing for re-installation so i could drive the truck across the street.

Im going to ride my bicycle to the flea market tomorrow and try and pick up a socket to beat the bearing in with. any idea what size socket I should try to purchase? seems like it should be anything with an OD between 51 to 56mm
 
Is your fluid level ok? Probably a coincidence.
Six years late. LOL. My brake fluid has never been low. New brake pads installed front and rear in 2018, along with new upper and lower control arms and tie rod ends.

As for the thread name, drove it to work today as I do every day. Ran like a champ, as usual.
 
Found my leak visually, lucky for me it was RDFM. Broke at the attachment going to the vacuum ball (canister) coming from the blower motor. Little strip of tubing and fixed. I like the easy ones.
 
is it possible that the bearing was the wrong size and off by a half mm or something?
It's possible. But, more likely that it would be wrong by a lot more than 1/2 mm. Actually, I would expect those bearings to be sized in inches, not mm.
Im going to ride my bicycle to the flea market tomorrow and try and pick up a socket to beat the bearing in with. any idea what size socket I should try to purchase? seems like it should be anything with an OD between 51 to 56mm
As close as possible to the od of the bearung, but very slightly smaller. Take a tape measure and just measure some sickets u til you find the closest size.
 
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im gonna pop the bearing out tomorrow and buy a $30 replacement bearing from autozone and try the 'frozen bearing + torched hub' trick.

any guesses as to why the bearing was so stubborn to go inside? everything looked smooth and clean.
is it possible that the bearing was the wrong size and off by a half mm or something? i also noticed the hub+shaft had a lot of difficulty passing through the bearing for re-installation so i could drive the truck across the street.

Im going to ride my bicycle to the flea market tomorrow and try and pick up a socket to beat the bearing in with. any idea what size socket I should try to purchase? seems like it should be anything with an OD between 51 to 56mm

An old shade tree trick, that I don’t recommend unless you’re totally screwed, but it sounds like you might be totally screwed. It’s best to use a tool, and second best is to use a socket or a piece of pipe the right size just like @Curious Hound said. But if you’re in a jam…

Get an oak or Hickory piece of wood, like a dowel or a hammer handle, something very strong, and use it like a punch. But you’re not going to punch the bearing down the middle, you want to do it in circular emotions around the edge.

Got a piece about 6 or 8 inches long. Put it at the 12 o’clock position and give it a whack. Then move it to 4 o’clock and give it a whack, then move it to 8 o’clock, and give it a whack. Each time, try to see if the bearing is moving at all.

The reason you’re using a piece of wood is so you don’t damage the bearing and you don’t damage the housing. You need a strong piece of wood so the wood doesn’t just crumble.

If it doesn’t work, try hitting it a little harder, but work your way up. Also, you might want to vary the 12/4/8 combination, but having said that, nor do you want to do it every quarter inch in a circle around the bearing. If it’s hung up side to side, when you get to the right place, it should move a little bit. Once you have that, you may want to tap it 180° from that, and alternate back-and-forth, but still running it around a ring in between.

You shouldn’t have to bash it like you’re using a sledgehammer, that would be the sign that it’s definitely the wrong size. But if it’s just wedging a little bit as it’s going in, you may be able to “rock it” to drive it home this way.

Hope it helps
 
Im not sure today's youth know how to tell time...
 
i asked grandpa to draw it out for me and it seems like hitting it in those positions would just make the bearing seat even worse

@Rick W it seems like this rear axle bearing sits between two sizes on the autozone loaner "Bearing and Race Installer Set" :(
 

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