Wheel cylinder or axle seal leak?


BobSacamano

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Joined
Nov 15, 2024
Messages
161
Points
101
Age
64
City
Brookhaven
State - Country
MS - USA
Other
2021 Bronco Badlands 2 Door
Vehicle Year
1996
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
Skyjacker Leveling Coils
Tire Size
31x10.5x15
image.jpg
Wheel cylinder or axle seal leak?
Wheel cylinder or axle seal leak?

The third picture is from the other side after I took the brakes out
 
That doesn't look as wet as I'd expect for an axle seal. But if the wheel cylinder was leaking that much, you probably wouldn't have brakes.

I see the axle is out of the truck. I'd probably do both while it's apart. Likely wheel bearings too... (It can be difficult to get the seal out without pulling the bearings.)
 
I just bought it. The previous owner said it had been out of the truck for about a week. He had told me a wheel cylinder was leaking on one side, but both sides look really bad. I’ve already dumped the gear oil and put the cover back on, but I haven’t put new gear oil in yet.
 
Mix some Bar's Stop leak when you replace the gear oil. The Stop Leak will cause the seal to swell and stop the leak. Make sure your vent tube isn't plugged!
 
Axle seals are easy to do and cheap. Just make sure there isn't a big groove worn into the shaft. Sometimes you can clean that up with emery cloth, sometimes it's just hopeless and you will need a new shaft. They make repair bearings but every time I've seen one of those used, it still leaks right away.

This one looks more like a wheel seal leak to me though, it's not a horrible ugly oily mixture of brake dust and gear lube. If it smells like sulfur, it's gear lube.
 
Axle seals are easy to do and cheap. Just make sure there isn't a big groove worn into the shaft. Sometimes you can clean that up with emery cloth, sometimes it's just hopeless and you will need a new shaft. They make repair bearings but every time I've seen one of those used, it still leaks right away.

This one looks more like a wheel seal leak to me though, it's not a horrible ugly oily mixture of brake dust and gear lube. If it smells like sulfur, it's gear lube.
The problem with the repair bearings is that they have an inner and outer seal, which means the bearing gets no oil unless you remove the inner seal and the outer seal isn’t as robust as I’d like it to be. I’ve been tempted to see if there was a way to fit it with a better outer seal.
 
The problem with the repair bearings is that they have an inner and outer seal, which means the bearing gets no oil unless you remove the inner seal and the outer seal isn’t as robust as I’d like it to be. I’ve been tempted to see if there was a way to fit it with a better outer seal.

Finding someone with a lathe and a TIG welder to melt the groove on the shaft back into itself and then machine it smooth would be my fix.

I think you could partially seat the normal seal in a pinch but there's a chance that it wouldn't be seated far enough or just fall into its old groove... the C clips let the shaft float laterally a bit.
 
Finding someone with a lathe and a TIG welder to melt the groove on the shaft back into itself and then machine it smooth would be my fix.

I think you could partially seat the normal seal in a pinch but there's a chance that it wouldn't be seated far enough or just fall into its old groove... the C clips let the shaft float laterally a bit.
Yeah, I know someone with a TIG, but nobody local with a lathe.

I pull the inner seal on repair bearings when I use them anymore after learning why they fail quickly. I’ve also learned that a welder is your friend when a bearing is really stuck. Weld a bead or two inside the bearing after you knock the rollers out, thing will come right out then.
 

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