Fuel rail line replacement

[D.j.bluedream]

I'm looking into installing a aftermarket aluminum fuel tank and fuel lines on my 95 3.0. My question is what would I need to do to install new fittings to the oem fuel rail or do I not need to do anything special to it install new fittings to install braided fuel line from the filter to rail? (Sorry for that lengthy sentence). Also, the reason/ want to do it is because I'm worried about shit in the oem tank clogging lines and getting to the hardlines and injectors. I know that there is shit in it. As in 2024 I had to replace the pump and in doing so things got into the tank and last year in November replaced the fuel filter. Now I'm having issues with it not turning over. The pump still works too cause I hear the pump prime every time I do.
So I'm going to install a new tank fittings and lines from the tank to the filter and from the filter to rail(replacing hardlines with braided). Can I install new fittings to the rail with little problem or what do I need to make it work and what to do?
I added the kit I'm looking into buying to this post.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So, I’m not sure I’m understanding this…

The truck currently won’t crank over and you’re suspecting the fuel system? Or does it crank but not fire?

Both of those potentially have little to do with the fuel system. Actually the first one has nothing to do with the fuel system. If it’s not cranking, it’s likely and electrical or mechanical problem.

The fuel pump running doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s doing its job. You need to check fuel pressure at the rail. Primed, running and overnight (or a couple hours minimum). Primed means that 2-second burst that the pump runs when you turn the key on. Running pressure is self explanatory. Sitting over time tells you if something is leaking down.

You got debris in the tank when you changed the pump? Why and how? I’ve always cleaned around the pump before pulling it and if the pump has to stay out for a bit, I cover the hole. I see no reason to buy a fuel cell to replace a plastic tank just because some debris got in there, pull the tank and clean it out, it’s not that hard and you’d have to pull it to put the fuel cell in anyway.

The pump should have a “sock” on it. That is a pre filter so the pump doesn’t suck up and big chunks. If you don’t have a sock on it, that can be a problem.

The fuel rails are an interesting critter on these, they don’t match commonly available fittings to the best of my knowledge because they’re almost the exact opposite of the standard fittings (most normal flared fittings are female seat, female thread; the fuel rail has things like female seat, male thread). I’ve just gone to the factory fuel rail lines when I’ve run new fuel lines.

Can’t really tell what that kit has, but there’s a couple different kinds of braided line. Some of the cheapest is just rubber line with a braid on the outside. Ethanol has a bad tendency to pinhole the rubber line over time. Unless you buy only ethanol free gas, that’s a problem and since almost all gas has ethanol anymore, well…

I did braided PTFE line on my Green Ranger and Choptop. Did -6AN, just used adapters to match the braided lines on the fuel rails, those fittings are readily available for the push connects.

 

[D.j.bluedream]

So, I’m not sure I’m understanding this…

The truck currently won’t crank over and you’re suspecting the fuel system? Or does it crank but not fire?

Both of those potentially have little to do with the fuel system. Actually the first one has nothing to do with the fuel system. If it’s not cranking, it’s likely and electrical or mechanical problem.

The fuel pump running doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s doing its job. You need to check fuel pressure at the rail. Primed, running and overnight (or a couple hours minimum). Primed means that 2-second burst that the pump runs when you turn the key on. Running pressure is self explanatory. Sitting over time tells you if something is leaking down.

You got debris in the tank when you changed the pump? Why and how? I’ve always cleaned around the pump before pulling it and if the pump has to stay out for a bit, I cover the hole. I see no reason to buy a fuel cell to replace a plastic tank just because some debris got in there, pull the tank and clean it out, it’s not that hard and you’d have to pull it to put the fuel cell in anyway.

The pump should have a “sock” on it. That is a pre filter so the pump doesn’t suck up and big chunks. If you don’t have a sock on it, that can be a problem.

The fuel rails are an interesting critter on these, they don’t match commonly available fittings to the best of my knowledge because they’re almost the exact opposite of the standard fittings (most normal flared fittings are female seat, female thread; the fuel rail has things like female seat, male thread). I’ve just gone to the factory fuel rail lines when I’ve run new fuel lines.

Can’t really tell what that kit has, but there’s a couple different kinds of braided line. Some of the cheapest is just rubber line with a braid on the outside. Ethanol has a bad tendency to pinhole the rubber line over time. Unless you buy only ethanol free gas, that’s a problem and since almost all gas has ethanol anymore, well…

I did braided PTFE line on my Green Ranger and Choptop. Did -6AN, just used adapters to match the braided lines on the fuel rails, those fittings are readily available for the push connects.

Well, my truck has rust and I did make sure I didn't get anything in there upon replacing the pump. It was when I put the new pump in when things got in there, rust particles from above it fell in. It'll crank but not turnover, might be a weak battery. I just want a new tank to have piece of mind and new lines. The new pump does have a sock, i just thought that it did end up sucking something up and changed the filter thinking it work. It sat thru the recent ice storm and I think it really weakened the battery and lost charge in the alternator.
So I'm gonna jump it from a running vehicle and see if that gets it to turnover. I just want to replace the lines and tank so I know everything good and clear of any would be obstruction and not have to dump and clean the oem tank.

 

[Curious Hound]

I’d check fuel pressure before buying a new tank.


By the way, cranking and turning over are the same thing. It sounds like yours cranks (turns over) but won’t fire. Have you tried starting fluid to see if it will fire in that? That’s a common way to determine if you have a fuel problem or a spark problem.

 

[D.j.bluedream]

I’d check fuel pressure before buying a new tank.


By the way, cranking and turning over are the same thing. It sounds like yours cranks (turns over) but won’t fire. Have you tried starting fluid to see if it will fire in that? That’s a common way to determine if you have a fuel problem or a spark problem.

Irregardless I'm buying a new tank and lines but I would try starting fluid. Just don't have any, all I got is a can of seafoam. I don't think seafoam would work though